LED Light Bar 9Inch 54W 3600LM Spot Off Road Driving Lamp Super Bright Waterproof Fog Work Lighting for Trucks SUV ATV UTV Pick-up Boat Tractor 4x4 Van Camper

I needed more light, especially on the rural country roads where I live with deer and hogs getting hit all the time on the roads. I wanted to be able to see more than a few yards ahead, and these will fit the need. Obviously I can't drive with them on all the time, but if no one is coming the opposite direction at night, I'll have them on. Installation can be tricky for anyone who is not experienced so if this is your first try at something like this, I'd suggest you ask for help from someone who is experienced. I will eventually mount a real bull bar on the Jeep Grand Cherokee and move the lights to that location, mainly because there is not any metal in the center of the bumper that the existing license plate mounted to. The light bar mount is pretty secure and because of the slotted holes, I managed to screw it down a little crooked, but I loosened the screws and was able to level the mount last night, long after I took the jeep photo shown. I did not use the switch that comes with the wiring harness and unplugged the white connector to remove the switch. Reason for that is that right now my bright lights are not much improvement over my low beams and with my LED fog lights and low beams on, I get flashed by oncoming traffic. I've switched to high beams which cuts off my fogs, and no one flashes me. I decided, to not cut a hole in my dash to mount the switch, and figure out how to pull the wires through my firewall, and instead would use the fog lights switch to turn on and off the fog lights and the LED light bar at the same time, since I can't really drive with the fogs on anyway full time. To do this, I used the white wire coming off the relay pin 86 which is the trigger for the relay to allow the passing through of 12 volts from the battery to the lights with the wiring harness. I cut the white wire just before the white plug, leaving the black and red, then taped up the plug with electrical tape since it will be dangling loose, kind of. I had to pull the weather shield loose between the wheel well and the back of the headlight area to be able to work with the fog light wires, on the passenger side of my vehicle. Under the hood, the passenger side is where my fuse box and ground point are with a positive terminal in the fuse box that is easy to screw down the red wire connector, and just a few inches away is the ground point for connecting jumper cables to, which can be screwed off, slide the black wire connector on and screw the ground point back on. These are the black and red wires that came with the ring connectors already on them. There was a screw that was in the frame in front of my fuse box that was doing nothing so I chose to mount the relay there. I verified that the white wire on the back of my fog light harness was showing 12 volts when the fog lights were on, so I stripped about 5/8 inch of the wire without removing and cutting it, so that I could fold it and squeeze it into an insulated spade connector of this type: https://www.amazon.com/Disconnect-Connectors-WLEAD-Electrical-Assortment/dp/B0CHB5H7XX/ref=sxin_16_pa_sp_search_thematic_sspa?content-id=amzn1.sym.f1ae5671-a572-4614-89aa-2c9d534241e0%3Aamzn1.sym.f1ae5671-a572-4614-89aa-2c9d534241e0&crid=2L290ZPYH1KU0&cv_ct_cx=insulated%2Bspade%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&keywords=insulated%2Bspade%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors&pd_rd_i=B0CHB5H7XX&pd_rd_r=0ab0d9e0-6815-400b-925f-5d9ff52fd9c5&pd_rd_w=hEMRN&pd_rd_wg=LuEkb&pf_rd_p=f1ae5671-a572-4614-89aa-2c9d534241e0&pf_rd_r=VFVE3B38J2WCZS2KF8GA&qid=1700593099&sbo=RZvfv%2F%2FHxDF%2BO5021pAnSA%3D%3D&sprefix=insulated%2Bspade%2Bcrimp%2Bconnectors%2Caps%2C87&sr=1-2-ac07dfd7-5f37-4797-bcf7-0f4905c82761-spons&sp_csd=d2lkZ2V0TmFtZT1zcF9zZWFyY2hfdGhlbWF0aWM&th=1 I crimped on the connector and added the mating connector to the white wire I cut earlier on the wiring harness and connected the two together. I zip tied that together so the wires aren't really swinging around under there. Now, when the fog lights are turned on, that 12 volts will send a trigger to the relay to turn on the LED light bar. Next I crimped on the two spade connectors that came with the kit onto the black and red wires coming off the light bar and connected them to the end of the wiring harness I fished through behind the grill an zip tied in a few places to keep it secure. Last, I just tied the remaining wire bundle together with a zip tie and then tied up the wiring coming from the light bar under the grill and was finished. You can see in the jeep photo how the bar mounts, (before I leveled it), the fuse box photo of how I wired to power, and the low, high, and light bar photos. I will probably raise the light bar angle a bit to get a little more distance and less flooding of the road right in front of me, but I am really happy with the outcome especially considering the cost of this setup. If you have regular, non-HID headlights and want to power your light bar with your high beams you could do what I did except you would find the wires behind your high beam lights and verify which has 12 volts when the high beams are on and use that wire for your trigger to the white wire in the light bar harness. Or, you could just pull the wires through your fire wall and mount the switch like a normal human would and use the switch provided to turn them on and off. Have fun and enjoy all the light!

solidly built, sturdy mounting hardware, installed on my tractor, plenty of light!

After reading some reviews about this light, I wasn't sure what to expect. The light came well packaged and double boxed so there wasn't any issues with damage in shipping. When I opened it, I was surprised at just how hefty it felt. This isn't a cheep plastic light and it seems very well built. I was concerned that the mounting brackets might have problems based on issues other people had, but they were fine. The brackets themselves do seem a little on the thin side, but once mounted they feel sturdy enough. I also ordered a mictuning wiring harness with a 30 amp fuse mictuning LED Light Bar Wiring Harness 30 Amp Fuse ON-OFF Laser Rocker Switch Blue(2 Lead 12ft) , but I ended up wiring this direct to the wires that the stock fog lights were wired to on my 01 Jeep TJ, so I didn't use it. I am thrilled that I don't have to drill any holes in my dash for more switches. Mounting this was a breeze. Total installation time to put it on my E-Autogrilles bumper E-Autogrilles 87-06 Jeep Wrangler TJ/YJ Off Road Front Bumper with 2x D-ring & Winch Plate (51-0034) was less than 20 minutes, including wiring. It's just one mounting bolt on the bottom of each of the two brackets, and four bolts on the side of each bracket plus two more allen screws to secure the light once centered in place. I turned this baby on and walked in front of my Jeep and couldn't believe how bright this was, even in sunlight. The side most six lights on both sides scatter their light and the inside bulbs are concentrated to a round beam that shone on the back wall in my garage. I've seen similar lights to this at three times the cost. I definitely recommend it. UPDATE: Well, I've had this on for a few days and tonight my wife pointed out that 12 of the lights on the right side are out. Honestly I didn't expect this to last all the way through the two year warranty, but this is a little soon for it to be failing. I've reduced my 5-star rating to 3 star and I'm going to get another one to give them the benefit of the doubt. This is probably a wiring issue rather than bulbs blinking out because it's a cluster of a dozen lights all grouped together. UPDATE 2: I got the replacement super fast and installed it right away. It's been working all summer without any issues. I do have to say that this light is too bright to use on the highway when there are other cars around. I only use on trails (and when people cut me off on the freeway) :p I'm upping my rating back to five stars. I'm very pleased.

So this was my first LED bar that I have bought, I have been researching them for a while and wanted to give it a shot. If it was a crap shoot I would only be out a few bucks, considering the price for brand name LED bars. It shipped and arrived quickly to my home, I installed it to my custom bumper that I made and went off roading a few times with it. I crossed a river with it and no water got in and actually impressed with the quality from the outside, for now. Take my word for it, just because it's only 20 inch doesn't mean it's not bright!! But I did notice that after a month a section of LED's went out and wouldn't want to come on anymore no matter how I wiggled the wires. At that point I realized it was an internal issue. I opened it up to find that the ground wire, the way it was tucked inside was actually putting pressure on a diode in the first section of the board but still allowing power to go to the other sections of the LED bar. So I soldered it back up and added more to ensure that it wouldn't break again. Simple fix in my mind, but may not be for others. It has only been two weeks since the fix and its still working but I do advise if you are going to take it apart to be aware of the torque on those bolts because they WILL strip. Unknowingly I stripped one, unfortunately. If it seems to go out again worst case scenerio I remove it and bridge it, worst case. For the money I paid for it, I am not complaining at all. If your handy with tools and can diagnose electrical problems if they arise, it's great! With all that being said, I would recommend it!

This thing is insanely bright!! I installed my light bar on the brush guard of my 1989 Ford Ranger, anyone who knows old trucks knows that the headlights are damn near totally useless on most of them. I tried everything, lens restoration kits, the brightest and most expensive halogen bulbs on the market, all new wiring straight from the battery to eliminate any corroded old connections and still I can ride around with my high beams on and no one can tell the difference and I can't see a damn thing. This LED light bar is pretty compact at only 20" and was super easy to bolt on and get it aimed properly. The outer housing of the light is heavier than expected and feels like it could take a fair amount of abuse honestly, I have used it for almost 2 years now, on road, off road, through heavy snow, sleet, rain, 0 degrees or 100 degrees I have never seen any moisture at all get inside of the light housing. Every diode on the light continues to work perfectly and it is just as bright today as the day it was delivered to me. 2 silver star ultra halogen bulbs(brightest on the market that I know of at least)will easily run you at least 50 or 60 bucks, do yourself a favor and spend the $30 on this light bar that is easily 10 times brighter and will last longer too. Now I am a mechanic and am pretty good with electrical systems so I have mine wired up to turn on and off automatically when I turn my high beams on and off which is the most convenient way as far as I'm concerned, although I also have it wired to a toggle switch in case I only want the light bar on or if I don't want it to come on with my high beams. What I like the most about this particular model compared to other light bars of the same size is the combination of spot light lenses and flood light lenses, the 6 lenses at either end of the light are floods and the rest are spot lights so you get the best of both worlds. I live out in the country so at night I can easily see 100 yards straight down road clearly and probably at least 50 yards out on both sides of my truck, which really gives you piece of mind because you see deer well before they get close to the road or jump out at you which is probably my favorite feature. Now I have never been pulled over for using this light on road even though technically it is illegal except for off road use, at least in PA where I live, but like I said I use mine light my high beams, if there are cars coming the other way or in front of me I turn it off right away and have passed cops doing this and never been hassled. I also usually don't use the light bar when in town just to play it safe, and you really only need it out on dark back roads anyway honestly. I also have mine mounted at the same height as my factory headlights and I properly aimed my light bar using the same process used for aiming headlights to make sure it's not intentionally blinding other cars on the road, although it really is so bright I try to be very quick about getting it turned off when other cars are around because it really could blind someone if you're not careful about using it. Every state is difference but I imagine if you're smart and courteous about using it you should be fine, it you have it aimed too high or have it mounted somewhere up high like a roof rack and use it on road you are probably just begging to be pulled over and given a ticket.

So far I am extremely impressed with this light bar. There are larger ones, but I can't imagine where or when you could even turn them on... I can't turn this one on except out driving in washes and dirt roads at night, hopefully with a forest around me or I'm going to blind everyone for half a mile. See video for details. I installed this light bar in about 20 minutes on my new Ranch Hand bull-nosed front bumper, after reading reviews and specs to be sure it would mount directly to the bumper light mounts with no adapters or brackets needed, and indeed the holes aligned perfectly. Some reviews have mentioned that the brackets arrived bent, and that they had to be bent to fit - partly true, but they didn't get bent in shipment, they were identical in their "slightly too narrow" aspect. This is intentional, so that when you slip them over the part that attaches to the light bar, it is held tightly in place as you stick the screws into their holes. So forget that whole "bent in shipment" thing, they are made that way on purpose. Unfortunately, the bumper had big holes in the light mounting tabs, so I did have to go to Home Depot to get some big washers, so add 20 more minutes for that side trip. But that's not an issue with the light bar, more like an incompatible bumper that needed a little help to be securely affixed. Your bumper or mounting location may work just fine without any additional hardware. I was having a new radio installed, so I had the radio installer at Best Buy pull the wires from the new Nilight dashboard switch ($10, also from Amazon) and connect it all up with soldered connections and heat shrink tubing like he did for the rest of the cables... That would have added a couple of hours if I had done the wiring myself - but since they had the dashboard apart anyway, this just made more sense to me. The zip ties in the photos were temporary until the wiring job was completed, now all wires are secured with black metal wire guides along the back sides of the bars. I did have to drill a hole in the bumper metal to route the wire - no big thing, and the Best Buy guys had a black grommet which fit perfect. Pros over there. You have to have the LEDs on to align the light bar correctly - my best eyeball guesswork was making a big bright spot on the ground right about where the low beams hit the ground. Adjustment is simple, if you have the right screwdriver (varies depending on the bumper and mounting location, what all is in the way, etc). Alignment took 5 minutes or so. The light bar gets quite warm to the touch as expected, but at no point was it too hot to touch during the adjustment operation. Hot but not enough to burn you or be a hazard. I very much like the arrangement of the 6 right and 6 left LEDs being flood focal length reflectors while all of the rest are long-throw spot focal length reflectors. You can see the difference in some of the pictures, and in those from other reviewers. You get a perfect mix of nearby and "way down the road" illumination. Check out the pictures and video - this thing looks great, works great, had excellent pricing for the performance, and is obscenely bright. Wow. Highly recommended!

(Update 05/12/19: 6 months ownership) Bar still intact and fully working, not a single problem so far. I’ll keep this updated if something happens. Ok. I rarely write reviews but I think this is gonna help a lot of people. I feel like I have to warn you guys about a couple of things. 1st- This bar is AWESOME for it’s price. Can’t beat it. Period. Don’t expect to turn night into daylight, not gonna happen. Helps on narrow roads with lots of trees. If you have really strong high beams, this will increase visibility and help by, at the most, 10% on open roads (with high beams on). It shoots light everywhere. Does not have a super defined beam. 2nd- MOST IMPORTANT : BUY RTV SILICONE AND SEAL THE PLASTIC WHERE IT MEATS THE METAL. It will extend the life of your bar, perhaps until the end of the warranty or more. The reason people are giving low stars and bad reviews is because the original sealant is CRAP. Water WILL get in and damage it. Plain simple. Put the Silicone tube nozzle on the space between the metal and plastic and PRESS IT. Make sure there’s no gaps or holes. 3- Really surprised by the sturdiness of this bar. Strong metal with a very high end felling to it. My mounting kit came just fine and installing didn’t take long, although there’s no manual. Put it on youtube and there’s videos on how to install it. No brainer. Came on a big box with lots of paper to hold it in place. I’ve been through heavy snow, behind cars shooting salt and ice on it (it stays low as you can see), been through car washes (soft touch and touchless) more then 10 times now, sprayed power wash gun directly on it (don’t recommend) to test the RTV and it held like it should. Still going with all LED’s working. PROS: Cheap, sturdy, bright enough for it’s price, easy to install it CONS: original sealant is terrible beyond words, make sure you do the job they didn’t do it. RTV the thing and you will be fine. If anything unusual happens I’ll be back to update this review. I’ll add more photos and videos some other day.

Bought as gift. Installed on a pontoon, no issues installing or operating this season (2025). Very illuminating