WZRELB 7000W Pure Sine Wave Inverter, 24V DC to 120V 240V AC, 4 AC Outlets, Hardwire Terminal, 91.6% Efficiency

I've had this inverter for 5 months now. I run a fridge and freezer off of it in my garage with 4, 250W solar panels and a large battery bank wired in series for 24V.This inverter puts out TOO high voltage. At 1st it put out 130V all the time. I wrote to the seller and he sent me instructions for lowering the voltage. I could only turn it down to 126V.AS far as being able to run 3,000W with 6,000W surge.....(UPDATE.....This is incorrect info) it will barely run a consistent 1,000W. I have a watt meter inline with the output of the inverter. As soon as any other load is put on it, the inverter shuts down and must be reset. I can't even turn on a 100w light bulb if the watt meter is displaying 1,000W. (Update.... out of ignorance, I was only using one of the 4-outlets which caused shut-down when that one outlet was over-loaded.)EDIT 7/27/2018I have had this inverter for 18 months now. It still puts out 126V and I am not having any issues with my fridge or freezer. I was originally concerned that the high voltage might shorten the life of the compressors. However, I am now in the school of thought that it may add life to the compressors because the higher voltage helps the compressor start easier, thereby relieving some stress. Remains to be seen.I just upgraded my to 3 stars. I would have made it 4 stars but the 126V is higher than this product should produce.EDIT 6/10/2019I've been using this inverter for over 2-years now. Still going strong but still output of 126V. My fridges are still doing just fine. In fact, I think that the higher voltage makes it easier for the fridges compressors to start upon recycling.EDIT 7/18/2022I have finally raised my rating to 5-stars. It took me some time to realize that the 110V outlets in the inverter are EACH rated @ 15A........ The only way to get full 3000W performance is to either use several of the supplied outlets or hard wire it using the supplied connections. I've been running this inverter 24/7 for 5-years now and it is still going. I still have the same fridges and they seem to have no ill effects from the 126-130V.I have now had this inverter for 6-years and it runs 24/7 powering our refrigerators.The last few days it has periodically been shutting down for no apparent reason. All connections are tight and I am running it off of 280AH, 24V LiFeP04 (lithium) battery which is fully charged by 1500W solar array and battery is at a pretty constant 26.5V - 27.5V. Everything is functioning properly and I'm thinking that it may just be time to replace it. The inverter shuts down @ 27.1V.I am wondering if they have made any improvements since 2017 to stabilize the power output down to 120V output and shut down @ 30V, where it should be.EDIT 9/2023I replaced this inverter with the newer model of the same inverter. This inverter NEVER did fail. It still functions as it did when new (as stated above). I find the new model to be more stable with output and it doesn't shut down at 27.1V like this one does. See the review on the newer model.

Just received this item and there are a few issues right from the start. This is sold as brand "WZRELB" then the box is generically branded as "EMC" then you open the box and the inverter unit is branded "YueQing Reliable Electric". Once unpacked, trying to follow the manual is a bit strange, pages are arbitrarily inverted in the "connection" section of the book. Then, it tells you to connect the negative cable to the battery, then negative to inverter. There is then a picture where you are supposed to connect the positive cable to a "spark proof" terminal, which does not exist on this inverter.Presumably, there is a large resistor to pre-charge the capacitors connected to this "spark proof" terminal because it says to connect for 3-5 seconds or more before moving cable and connecting to the actual positive terminal of the inverter.Since that mythical terminal was not present, I pre-charged the capacitors the old fashioned way with a 5 ohm, 50 watt resistor between the positive cable and the positive terminal on the inverter. Powered unit on, it shows 120VAC, but the DC power meter was kind of floppy and pushed back into the case, looks like the hot glue they used dislodged in transit (who uses hot glue or similar as a mounting fastener?) it also was off by over -0.5 volts from what the battery is reporting. I used 4AWG cables, versus the 10mm^2 cables that were included and too thin looking for supporting 800 watts.Next, I used a multimeter to test AC output voltage.Neutral to Hot shows 120VAC, good so far.Neutral to ground shows 48-60VAC, not so good...Hot to ground show 1.3VAC....Even worse, implying hot and ground are likely bonded)I came to the conclusion that the polarity is reversed on the AC, bypassing the convention that neutral is on the longer of the 2 blades which can cause a hot chassis situation on non-grounded equipment. The polarized plug is there for a reason to ensure that no voltage is present on exposed surfaces. One would expect that neutral and ground would be bonded in this unit or at least have a minimal voltage difference between the two. The fact that neutral to ground shows up to 1/2 the output voltage means there is something very wrong with the assembly. The manual then confirms that the black (hot wire) can be connected to the ground!I tested a few small resistive loads, and I got inconsistent output pulling only 272 watts, well shy of the 800 watts this claims it can power. I have a 304Ah battery powering this inverter through oversized 4AWG cables less than 18" (roughly 0.45m) in length.Then to add insult to injury, the manual states you should oversize the inverter by 5-10 times for inductive loads, and the inverter should be run at no more than 80% of its rated output to prolong the lifespan of the product, then later it is recommended to use less than 70% of the stated continuous current. The manual further warns just about every thing you can plug in may exceed the surge rating of any of their inverters.I did not bother to hook up an oscilloscope to this unit as it serves no useful purpose given all the stipulations in the manual. Can't run a tiny fan, can't run a 180W (That is 180 watts, not 1800w) heat gun, the only thing that worked was an incandescent light bulb, LED flickered horribly. This is going back as it is configured in a very dangerous way. If manufacturer corrects AC polarization issue, this might be a little safer for some unknown purpose.

Excellent product, works great…..,

This is a great little inverter that does exactly what it promises. It produces clean, pure sine wave power and has been rock-solid in performance for my off-grid setup. I’ve used it to run sensitive electronics and small appliances without any issues at all. The build quality feels solid, and the fan only kicks on when needed, which is a nice bonus for quiet operation.The only thing to note—and this isn’t a dealbreaker—is that the rated 1200W is divided across both AC outlets. So if you’re running a single high-wattage device, keep that in mind. Still, for typical use, this inverter delivers great value and dependable performance. Highly recommended!