Kook: What Surfing Taught Me about Love, Life, and Catching the Perfect Wave

Some of these books can be a struggle but this one is so easy to read and a great story of the authors challenge to become a surfer. I really enjoyed it and it gave me a great insight into the world of surfing

I read a lot of surf related books, technical stuff, wave and weather analyst etc - I find the story books all take the same kind of route...some sort of quest, pilgrimage with a bit of eastern philosophy thrown in. For surfers we get descriptions of waves, rides, boards and crowds (or lack of them) etc... I love it, its exactly what I want after a day in the North Sea of the coast in Norfolk, freezing my butt off. Kook is a good read, I like the characters on the journey and the ecologist view that we're all aware off. May irritate a few surfers if it encourages more old farts into the water !

This book is nothing short of an inspiration, it has a lovely on the road type of feel, backdropped with interesting headlines and facts about the environment and cetaceans, I am only half way through and already can't wait to read the rest. But don't be too fooled Heller may disarm you with charm but he's not half the kook he makes out to be.This can be a serious tale for surfers who take the ocean seriously.

Like experiencing summer and adventure. This is a thoroughly enjoyable and light read. Moved me to tears at one point nough, about Dolphins. Heller is very honest and modest which I liked, he doesn't sort of go - so I was out there and tearing it up and...what more can you want from a surf story than this book.

With great life, love and surfing tips, info on conservation and world issues, it had me laughing and crying all the way through. I was so upset when it finished - I wanted it to last so much longer.A great, great read. I can't rate it highly enough. I'm in my forties, learning to surf and well it inspired me to carry on with the sport and my love of the sea and planet.

Inspiring read with descriptions of surfing that will make you feel like your riding the wave..

Liked by gift recipient

Terrible book, horribly written, the guy is more than a kook, can't believe I wasted my money on this book, although it has made me realise I could quite easily write my own story about learning to surf and it will be 100 times better than this! In fact where is my pen I will start straight away.....It was 2001 and after a weeks holiday in Cornwall, England spent learning to surf with the Winter brothers, I decided to quit my job, pack up a small holdall with some clothes and book a one way trip to Australia.

Lusting und spannend geschrieben. Macht Lust auf ein Surftrip

perfecto

Still in the process of reading it, but so far so good!When I read, I feel I'm there with the author. Easy to read, and make me laugh some times :) ... Good book if you like surfing, like water, or just life experiences.

For the surf beginner I am this book seems perfect. I didn't finished it yet but for now I can say I feel like being right there on the wave!

This book is an ocean of adventure, laughter, and thought. It is for people who love to laugh, big hearty addictive laughs. The kind of involuntary laughter you get when being tickled, you know what I mean...at least I hope you do. Tucked between the front and back covers of this book lives a celebration of life and a bit of self-help for your soul (and if relative, relationship). If you are old enough to read and learning to surf this book is absolutely essential to your growth. I'm not saying you are going to land that wave and ride it to shore or not purl. Rather it may help your psyche. It may let you know there is as much machismo out there as fear, that surfing just standing up on the board and riding a wave any wave is going to take time and lessons and the right board. It is not going to be easy, but it is going to be magical. When you surf you become part of a community and Peter Heller not only gives you directions to where this community lives, he invites you in. He challenges you to have a good time with life and pay attention. He and his girlfriend Kim are people you want not only to camp and surf with after reading this book (or maybe just 20 pages in), but people you want to get to know as neighbors or pen pals. Peter Heller is not perfect and he readily admits that, but who is and frankly who is going to fault someone who says you know what I'm not, but I'm so excited about so many things (surfing, the environment, travel, food, and his girlfriend) and I'm honest. Just do yourself a favor this winter and read the book. For $15 it is well worth it. I just loved it.