Geberit 111.798.00.1 Toilets and Bidets

This review is only for the carrier and installation for those that may be considering this type of toilet. It is not a review of the toilet itself or toilet operation. I have a separate review of the toilet itself. If you're interested in installation details, read on...but non detail-oriented people will lose interest.If you're a novice do-it-yourselfer, this may not be a project to take on. If you're a little more advanced, you'll be fine. I came from the electrical trades and have pretty extensive remodeling, electric, plumbing, tiling & flooring experience but have never installed one of these before - I did plenty of reading and planning....and it came out perfect. If you're going to hire someone to do it, make sure they're not the typical "I only like cookie-cutter jobs and don't want to learn anything new" type of plumber. Old dogs will resist and lazy ones will try to talk you out of it....If they do, get a new plumber because these are worth the effort. The person (or you) should be prepared to do plumbing as well as basic carpentry/framing. The bulk of the installation needs to be done while while walls are open. The final installation will be one of the last steps in the remodel, after the walls are finished and/or tiled. So if you're not installing it, have the plumber plan for a return trip. These are gaining popularity as time goes on, and most progressive plumbers would have no problems with this after doing a little reading. And if you're doing it yourself...dig in and read below to get an idea of what to expect.My situation involved a second-story bathroom complete gut, with no access to the plumbing from below. Plumbing was in-between floors, so it was more difficult than if you had access to it from a basement or during new construction. I had to open up a section of sub-floor just in front of the carrier. From there I had to re-route and navigate the 3" waste line around a pre-manufactured truss without cutting through it, all while working through a 24" x 24" opening (I could have made it bigger but the sub-floor was glued and nailed which makes for a more damaging removal). If you're not a pex guy (I prefer copper) the water feed requires some accurate pipe-routing and sweating work to land it just right (as with all sweat-work take your time and dry-fit it first). You will also have to frame around the carrier (I doubled-up for extra strength). Make sure you use the proper bolts (included) in all of the specified locations.Important Tip: Thoroughly read and re-read the height-setting directions. The carrier allows for various height settings for the bowl (typical is 15" or 16", but ADA or "comfort height" is 19" above the finished floor). You DO NOT set the carrier bolts to the desired bowl height. It's a bit more complicated than that. The carrier bolt height depends on the bowl you choose, as mounting holes vary from bowl to bowl. Once you finish the installation, you can't change the height, so you have to figure this out ahead of time. For accurate results, you'll need to know the brand and specific model of the bowl you'll use (or have it on-site). Open the bowl or download the spec sheet and review the mounting hole dimensions in relation to the rim. Then take that measurement and subtract that amount from the desired rim height to figure out the height of the carrier bolts. For example: If the dimension from the mounting holes to the top of your bowl rim is 2-1/2", subtract 2-1/2" from the desired height of your bowl and set the carrier bolts to that height - but don't forget...the seat will add nearly an inch and you'll also need to account for the finished floor height. The height you choose will be from the finished floor to the top of the seat in the down position, so take tile thickness and underlayment into consideration. Example: my bowl's mounting holes were 2 inches from the rim, so I set my carrier bolts at 15" above the rough floor. When finished, the bowl height (with the seat down) is 19" above the finished floor - just where we wanted it. But again, bowl models have their mounting holes in different locations and the specific model of bowl will affect the end bowl height. Think this through before setting the height and consider the variables...the carrier will be sitting on the base plate, so the measurement has to account for this - also account for whether tile is installed or will be installed. As I said, plan ahead and think of all the variables.* Make sure you mount the carrier perfectly level and plumb and securely tighten all bolts. This will affect the end results. I was concerned about creaking and squeaking as someone sat down, but we have none - it feels completely solid and secure.A big factor on the difficulty level is whether your particular situation is a renovation, new construction, your accessibility to the waste line and whether it's PVC or cast iron. And yes, I did use primer - I just applied it neatly so it didn't run outside the joints....and yes, I know the idea behind the purple color is to be visible - but my application was being done by me in my own home and wasn't being inspected, so it didn't need to be visible.As for cost - when you factor in all of the parts - even without labor, the cost of this is well beyond a standard floor-mount toilet. But if you're looking into this type of toilet, I'm sure there's a reason you want it. It does have its benefits (space-saving, ease of cleaning underneath, a modern look, etc.). When I do another wall-mount, I will use Gerberit again, as the installation turned out perfectly. I did a lot of research on the two main manufacturer's of these toilet carriers and chose Gerberit. The mechanics and valves inside were good quality and the framework was solid and well engineered. It has a 700 lb weight rating.For those that have not researched this too deeply yet, once installed all of the serviceable parts, valves, flush mechanism, etc. are accessible from the front flush panel without disturbing any part of the finished wall. I've heard those trying to talk people out of it say "if anything goes wrong you have to rip your wall open to fix it" - COMPLETELY FALSE. It was well thought-out. These have been in use in Europe for many years, they're only relatively new to the U.S. consumer.* Make sure you order the model specific to your wall (2x4 vs 2x6).Also keep in mind, you buy the "carrier" (this in-wall component) separately and have many models of toilet bowls to choose from. Geberit has an extensive list of compatible toilets from multiple manufacturers (Toto, Duravit, Kohler, etc.). You need to order the flush plate, toilet bowl and toilet seat separately as there are so many options for each.Update: It's been installed over 2 years in a daily-use bathroom. Still works perfectly - no issues whatsoever. Just make sure it's done right!Update: We recently remodeled our final bathroom and installed a second one of these. Combined with a raised off-the-floor vanity, these look great and so modern (last photo added).Here's the toilet we used: https://www.amazon.com/gp/customer-reviews/R1GCB3RMW1SLGL?ref=pf_ov_at_pdctrvw_srpNOTE: I purchased this item on Amazon for full price and have no affiliation to the seller. I try to write helpful, unbiased and insightful reviews because I also read reviews prior to making my own buying decisions. I notice many reviews lack helpful information, are not well written or give poor reviews based on not reading directions or failing to read the product details prior to purchasing. Writing valuable reviews helps pay it forward.

So we installed the unit a while ago and closed out the bathroom. While fitting the toilet and trim we noticed that there seemed to be a lifting yoke missing. Called tech support this morning and tech support guy, Cornelius, said it can happen that it can fall down into the tank occasionally. Within a minute he sent me an email link to a video for removing all the parts in the way (actually a maintenance video). No yoke to be seen. I emailed back explaining it wasn't there and asked for a replacement. Within seconds his reply was "Yes, where should we send it?".It's not often you get that kind of help from tech support anywhere.So I'll report on how it works when I get the replacement.Also don't be an idiot like me and order the wrong toilet. They have a list of compatible toilets on their web site.

This carrier has adjustable flush settings. You can set it for 1.2 1.6 and one more that I forgot what it is but it's where I left it for the extra flush volume. Remember these wall toilets are a washdown and not a siphon flush. The design of the valves and components in the tank, how you get things in and out for servicing are the coolest thing I've ever seen in plumbing. Plumbers probably hate them but I LOVE it. A Craftsman's Dream. I like taking things apart just because it's fun and the flush seal needs cleaning every year or two but it will let you know when it's time. I installed mine myself and do all the servicing. My plumber hooking up the supply and waste pipes. Very quiet flushing compared to our other standard type toilet.

Got the package and I am currently installing it. Everything was shipped in good condition but the 3" 90 degree waste pipe doesn't fit into any of the fittings I got from the home depot. They included flexible rubber coupling but it's more like a work around than a proper sealed connection with cement I want.I need to use 90 degree elbow 3"in to 4" right below the floor and there is no space for the flexible rubber coupling. I can't also use it above the floor as rubber coupling is wider than 2x4 stud and will collide with the dry wall. I tried also adapters and they also doesn't fit with this pipe.I contacted the seller and just gave some phone number to call, while I was hoping for replacement part.Attached picture of the pipe from geberit (top and home depot below). See the difference.[Update] I called Geberit and they tole me I have to talk to Home Plumbing if I got defected parts. After one week of exchanging emails with Home Plumbing they stopped replying and they didn't resolve my problem. Unfortunately Geberit instruction doesn't show how to connect to waste lines, just how to install they whole thing, however I found two videos when people are using flexible rubber coupling so at the end I used that one to connect with my ABS pipes. Because the wall is 2x4 and rubber coupling is wider than 3 1/2, I had to hide the coupling inside the floor height, otherwise when it's above there wouldn't be a room for drywall. Took me a lot of time to measure it right and connect but at least I got some kind of solutions.I also got second Geberit from Home Plubming for my second bathroom, waste pipe is again 3 9/16, so it looks like that pipe, even though on the side it says 3 1/2, it's wider by design. Something is telling me that maybe it's done this way so people won't cement it with PVC or ABS as it's different plastic. Would be great to have it in the user manual though.