Gasgacinch 440-B Gasket Sealer and Belt Dressing, 8 oz

This stuff is top notch, it really does work for a variety of applications.

I've been using this stuff since 1978 when I rebuilt my first VW engine. There it is used as a sealer between the alloy case halves of the VW engine, but I use it also as a gasket dressing on carbs, water pumps, etc. I put a thin film on both gasket sides and it will not only hold them in place during assembly, but also provide a superior seal. Also, if you have to disassemble something down the road, the gasket can most times be saved and reused.

Nice price and gasket sealer. This produce has been around a long time

I needed a belt dressing for an old belt-driven lathe. This is it. It goes on fast and is ready for use within an hour. No slipping and the built-in dauber works perfectly.

Rebuilt a couple New Process 205 and Dana 300 transfer cases with the new style pre-cut gasket material that comes in nearly every Spicer, Dana and NP rebuild kits. Discovered the hard way that gear oil will leach right through the new gasket material and wick out the edge of the gasket material after the parts are bolted together. Try using this stuff by coating both sides of the gasket material completely and the inner and outer edges, basically you want to saturate the gasket fiber material with the Gaskacinch and let it tack off (solvent evaporate out of it. Also coat the parts you are using on either side if the gasket, ie. cast iron transmission, aluminum adapter etc. and let that tack off too. Then assemble the parts and normal and you may see some Gaskecinch wick out the edges like a sponge which is good. Let it set overnight to cure before adding trans fluid or gear oil. Its a pain to paint this stuff on and wait for it to dry, but nothing compared to pulling an SM4645 and NP205 by yourself to do it all over again. The new gasket materials seem to be made out of some new substance, likely more environmentally friendly that doesn't work worth a you know what at keeping fluids inside the gear cases. Try to install the gasket just one time, if you touch it to the metal part one time by mistake, it will pull the adhesive off like rubber cement and you will have to reapply and wait again for it to flash off.

I have been using Gaskacinch for a very long time, since an old school racer buddy of mine showed it to me back in the day. It works extremely well, especially on cork or dry fit gaskets. One can lasts quite a long time and a lot of projects. Now that I am the 'old school guy' I have shown this to a number of other folks too.

Just as needed.

I use this stuff for gluing on valve covers, flywheel covers and head gaskets on motorcycles. Works great for this purpose. Make sure the surface is cleaned with acetone before assembly (including the gasket) then put a thin layer on with an acid brush. Set the gasket on there and wait about 5-10 minutes and assembly. Don't go overboard and it will work and seal well.