Hasa Pool Liquidator C201 Chlorinator, 8 Gallon, 3/8" UPGRADED

In my opinion, the value for your money simply isn't there given that this is a medium sized plastic bin with a couple of float valves, some tubing, cheap flow meter and even cheaper check and ball valves. I find it a little irritating that Hasa sells this at a ridiculous price in hopes that you fill it full of their liquid chlorine. The 3/8" upgrade is kind of a joke since the ball and check valves they supply slide into the tubing restricting the flow to an unusable rate below 3 on the flow meter. This may not be a problem for you if you have enough back pressure in your return line that feeds the "in" side of the chlorine bin. One interesting thing to note is that the instructions tell you in the trouble shooting section that you can connect the "in" hose to between the pump and the filter if you don't have enough back pressure to supply the chlorine bin with the needed flow rate, but you probably won't read that part until you have already drilled a hole to mount it after the filter. Furthermore, you don't need to do that if you simply replace the supplied check valves (grey in photo) with push connect valves (white in photo) where the tubing slides into the valves, those won't restrict flow. Those modifications worked for me but cost an additional 40 bucks. I have only been running it a couple days since making the modifications to increase the flow so I don't know how the unit actually performs with respect to supplying an adequate rate of chlorine to the pool.

This is a really good option for using liquid chlorine instead of tablets in the pool. For the price and considering it is for a pool (why is pool stuff so expensive?), you can't beat this kit. It was very easy to install but I didn't use the clamp-taps. I used the pump basket drain plug and a spot after the filter where I could screw in a shutoff valve.This design is perfect once you add some pieces that really should be included for smooth operation. #1 both in and out NEED a needle valve to fine tune the throughput. #2 both in and out need shutoff valves, it comes with one for the outfeed (feeding water into the pump). That way you can set the needle valve for your chlorine needs but still shutoff the line for various reason without having to recalibrate each time. It is much easier to refill the chlorine with the pump running but the infeed shutoff. #3 each line (on my installation) has a shutoff valve, check valve, needle valve, and flow meter. I swapped out several pieces with versions from the hardware store so that I didn't need tubing inbetween each piece. That made it easier to mount and operate because it gave everything more rigidity.All-in-all I love this ingenious design, but HASA needs to put some of that ingenutiy into designing a single "control valve" for each side that performs the functions of all these individual pieces.

Instructions are weak at best. The "in" side with filtered water seems to work okay (except the float gets stuck); however, the "out" side has the following list of problems. The provided back flow preventers clog quickly as well as the flow meter. Everything needs to be soaked in vinegar or other weak acid at least once a month. This includes the floats which stick after about 6 to 8 weeks and plugged by sediments. The 3/8" kit works okay but the back flow preventers clog even sooner than the 1/4" original supply. In short it has almost taken daily maintenance after 2 to 4 weeks of operation. The "out" float broke off after about 8 weeks. Also, I have only used HASA chlorine because that is what my preferred pool supply place stocks.I have tried upgrading the system to 1/2" ID tube, spring back blow preventer, and sediment screen but still have problems. I will try to obtaining two sets of everything to allow for swapping out one set while acid washing the recently used set. Installing a set of shutoff valves is mandatory because of the need to frequently service/maintain the components.As of now, I would not purchase the 3/8" upgrade kit since these valves clog and stick in the open position allowing for back-flow before blocked completely.If I get this to work consistently where it requires maintenance beyond filling chlorine no more than once a month, I'll provide photos and a description of what I got to work. If it is still more work than it is worth, I'll provide that too.

Just received the Liquidator last week, so I haven't installed it yet. But, I wanted to post the attached picture so everyone can see that the upgraded check valves and flow control valve are now included in the kit. These were mentioned as an after-market purchase by previous reviewers. The other thing I did was spray paint the sides of the Liquidator that will be sun-exposed to make them opaque. The plastic is translucent, so I was uncertain whether sun exposure would be an issue for chlorine degradation. I plan to install later this week.Liquidator has been working flawlessly for 1 month, but the JG Speedfit PPSV041212WP 3/8-Inch by 3/8-Inch flow control valve has started to malfunction due to internal rubber o-rings that have degraded in the chlorine environment. I've ordered valves that are all brass and teflon construction in hopes of solving this problem. In addition, the float valves inside the Liquidator have started clogging up due to calcium buildup. I live in Phoenix where calcium content in the tap water is through the roof, so this might not be as big of a problem in other locales. Soaking the float valves in CLR seems to be working, but if I have to do it every month it will be a major hassle!