POR-15 Top Coat Paint, Direct to Metal Paint, Long-term Sheen and Color Retention, 32 Fluid Ounces, Safety Blue

The POR-15 Top Coat is one of the best metal paints I’ve used. It goes directly onto metal without needing a primer and leaves a smooth, durable finish. The coverage is excellent, and a little goes a long way. What really stands out is its durability—once cured, it resists chips, scratches, and UV damage. I’ve used it on outdoor projects (frames, railings, and automotive parts), and it keeps its color and sheen even after months of sun and rain. Unlike some paints that fade or peel, this one holds up exactly as advertised. It does dry quickly, so you need to work at a steady pace to avoid brush marks. I’d recommend using a good quality brush or spray for the best results. Also, make sure the surface is clean and prepped—it adheres best that way. ✅ Pros: Direct-to-metal application, no primer needed Long-lasting sheen and color retention Excellent chip, scratch, and UV resistance Great for automotive and outdoor use ❌ Cons: Dries fast, so you have to apply quickly Strong odor during application (ventilation needed) Overall, this is a tough, reliable coating that lives up to the hype. If you’re looking for something that will protect metal and stay looking good for years, this is a solid investment.

Expensive but worth it. The paint was thick, but spread well (maybe the can I received was old?). A small dab on the tip of your brush can be spread quite a bit giving great coverage. The 1-Quart can almost completely covered this cattle chute with one coat inside and out. I'm disappointed with the color, but not the paint itself. Based on the photo and even the can when I received it, I expected the paint to be a burgundy or maroon color. Instead, it's like a dark Pepto-bismal pink (photos of first coat application are attached). I will be the only cattle farmer in America with a pink cattle chute and I'm looking forward to the comments from my neighbors. It goes great with the barn paint that was supposed to be a dark brown but turned out a military olive drab green instead. I should have stuck with black...but, I wanted a matte finish (the other colors were gloss) and I wanted to be able to see where I had painted over the black POR-15 Rust as I was working. The chemical bond creates a coat that is extremely hard and after a cold night I could see beads of condensation on the painted surface which will help shed water and prevent additional rust progression over time. It was a relief to get this rusty cattle chute restored. A few more muted color options would be nice (in addition to the bright primary colors red, orange, lime green, and yellow). This is the first time I've used a rust preventive product on my equipment and I am impressed. It will be interesting to see how well it holds up after I run cattle through the chute the first time. Wear rubber gloves while using (it takes about a week for it to wear off of your hands). Disposable brushes were sufficient (try to pull out loose bristles in advance). Use Saran wrap to cover the lid and can when you are finished using it to prevent it from hardening up (otherwise you may never get the lid off again).

Very good and looks great

This product worked really well. Went on easy and dried with a nice look. I painted my 2002 Peterbilt frame and I’m very happy with it.

Not quite the same paint as POR-15 Rust Preventative paint Black. I understand the need for different final coat colors, especially when needed for UV protection, but this stuff is a different paint than the original POR-15. As others have noted - this top coat flows in very strange ways. In some ways it seems like it continues to flow for many hours, so when painting any vertical surface with it - be careful as it will continue to flow, drip and run long after you think that you have brushed out a nice smooth surface. Like Black POR-15 this settles and smooths out fairly quickly, so it is great for hiding brush marks. The issue is that it does not stop flowing for many hours. I was painting a large steel tank 14"D x 45" long and so I used original POR-15 to cover all rust spots and bare metal. That paint has it own very unique flow qualities but I have used it long enough to know how to use it. Also know that within a couple of hours it has started to dry enough to stop flowing. But this White Top Coat is different. I VERY carefully brushed it out so it was applied evenly and it looked great But then hours later I check it and it was full of runs & drips. So be very careful when applying to any non-horizontal surface. Also believe that this white Top Coat has a different chemistry, as you can thin it and clean brushes with regular Mineral Spirits. No way with Original POR-15 Black which is almost impervious to Mineral Spirits. For example - the brush I used for this Top Coat I could store in a small can of Mineral Spirits and it would remain soft and usable again. But for brushes used for original POR-15 they just hardened rock solid in the same container. I love POR-15 but be aware that this is a different paint.

After a recent trip to the beach, the roll cage on my truck starting to rust. This was deeply upsetting to me, because it was previously coated in truck bed liner, but age and salt started to seep their way in. Finding POR-15 Top Coat was like seeing a ray of light shining down from heaven, because it boasted a nice matte finish, and UV protection. That meant that I could apply only one coat and get the result that I was looking for. I did it right, cleaned, sanded, cleaned again, and then painted on a fairly thick layer (even though they say thin is best). I followed the advice of others and bought a turkey baster which I used to transfer the paint into a solo cup, painted from the solo cup, and then threw away the paint brush and solo cup that I used after each session. The paint was pretty thick (not runny) which was exactly what I was hoping for. I was very careful, and had very few spills or spatters. If you do get a drip and catch it quickly, then you can wipe it up clean. It coated the rust perfectly and left an incredible finish, far exceeding my expectations in that regard. One quart went a long way. First I painted my whole roll cage. Then I painted the side body of the truck (which was also previously coated in truck bed coating). Then I repainted the bumpers, then the under body of the entire front end of the truck. I still had just a little bit left over, so I repainted my propane burner (that I use for brewing). I feel that using a turkey baster, solo cup, disposable paintbrushes, and keeping rags handy is key to getting a good result with this product. I was also careful to make sure that the lid did not get any paint on it as I heard it would make it adhere solid. I will say that this stuff will form a film pretty quickly when left to sit on its own, so work efficiently. I'll also say that I've used regular POR-15, and I like the Top Coat MUCH better. The regular stuff is runny, shiny, takes forever to dry, and doesn't have UV protection. There's probably an advantage from a chemical composition standpoint to use the regular stuff, but if there isn't, Top Coat feels superior in every way. As you can tell, I'm very satisfied with this product. I haven't taken it to the beach yet, so I'll update this review if it doesn't prevent the rust, but I have high hopes that it will.

Great stuff. Goes a long way. Did 1 coat on frame of my f350. Do it like it says on the can.

I discovered this product while doing research on rust prevention for a project that had been long in the planning stages: restoring my 1985 Jeep CJ-7 from the frame up. I'd heard of POR-15 before and after reading some pretty good things about it I decided to give it a try. If you want to maximize the life of the metal for whatever it is you're wanting to protect or restore, then read on... First, you are well-advised to completely read the instructions included with POR-15 before you get started! And if you take nothing else I'm writing with you, at least heed this advice: be absolutely certain to cover yourself head-to-toe BEFORE applying POR-15! Put on an old long sleeve T-shirt & some jogging sweats or an old pair of pants that you don't care about. (Trust me, they'll be trashed by the time you're through, depending on the size of your project.) Alternately, you can buy one of those 1-piece painter's suits sold at most paint, autoparts & big box hardware stores. Yeah, they're hot & sorta stifling, but it sure beats having this stuff bond to your skin for a week or two. (Don't ask how I know. LOL) Just remember, if it gets on your skin it will NOT wash off no matter how much scrubbing you do - short of scrubbing your friggin' skin off! POR-15 will have to wear off, like a dye. Don't say you weren't warned! And speaking of covering yourself... if you're in a garage you ought to make sure your project is covered underneath, too. Sit your project on / roll your vehicle chassis onto a clean hole-free tarp. It's cheap insurance. Otherwise, if you drip or splash any POR-15 on your floor you'll be scraping & chiseling it off. NOT fun. I still have patches in my garage more than 3 years after glopping the stuff on, and having it land in/on places I never intended! The POR-15 guys recommend some prep work for heavily-rusted projects. They also offer a spray for new or clean surfaces that's designed to chemically "etch" the metal for better coating retention. I initially just used a grinder with a wire wheel cup attachment to strip away the larger scale & rust deposits. After some consideration I decided to go ahead and have the entire chassis professionally sandblasted. (This was a wise choice, as it exposed how completely rusted-through the rear arms of my CJ frame were. Repair required fabricating & welding in replacement steel pieces.) Anyhoo... I applied 2 coats on the Jeep's frame. POR-15 applies easily and can literally be brushed or rolled right on top of existing rust. After almost 3 years the POR-15 is holding up remarkably well, and though it took time to do the job properly it has been worth the effort. One last piece of advice: if you have any of the stuff left in the can when you finish, be sure to apply a piece of plastic wrap (Saran Wrap) between the can & the lid! If any of this stuff gets in the groove and you just tamp the lid shut, you will have effectively glued the lid on permanently. It's best to cover the rim of the can with some masking or painter's tape or buy one of those re-usable rubber snap-on pouring spouts (with the sealable spout lids) and just pour a small amount into a disposable bucket or pail, refilling as you go. It may take a little longer this way, but it will help keep POR-15 from drying out prematurely if the pail is just left open. It will also help avoid the frustrating "lid welding" mistake should any of it get into the lid groove. BOTTOM LINE: Yes, POR-15 is kind of expensive, but if you have a project you're working on and you want it to last ...it's money well-spent.