Genie B6172H Wall Mount Smart Garage Door Opener, DC Motor Lifts up to 14ft high 850lbs, Black

I bought this opener to control a large (12ft wide, 10ft tall) and heavy door for my workshop. We have another building that has a traditional Chamberlain opener installed so I briefly considered that brand, but after reading the reviews and the product documentation, I'm glad I didn't. This Genie product seems clearly superior.Unlike the Chamberlain product where the installation manual requires the installation of a phone app and there is no printed manual (no thanks), the Genie installation manual is a large (22" by 34") fold-out document that is clearly illustrated and very well-written. It was a pleasure to use, but I did have two minor issues with it:1) I had no experience with "cable keepers" and didn't understand their purpose, and the manual doesn't really explain them (they are spring-loaded levers installed at the bottom of the door that keep the cables from going slack and getting in the way when the door is being lowered). I noticed these performing their task later on when setting the upper door travel limit, which I'll explain later.2) Step 4 of section 7 (the installation of the "Safe-T-Beams", the light sensors on either side of the door that detect any obstructions while the door is lowering) says to remove 1/4" of insulation from the wires where they connect to the opener, then twist the two "like" wires from each sensor together for insertion into the terminal block. This should really be 1/2", not 1/4". The insulation remaining on the two wires makes them too large to fit into the receiving hole, and 1/4" of wire length does not protrude into the hole far enough for the "gripper" teeth to grab them. Discovering this on a 8ft ladder while simultaneously pressing a screwdriver to release the gripper teeth and trying to insert wires upside down into a poorly illuminated receptacle that won't grip the wires is rather annoying. I had to trim more insulation off the wires before they would insert correctly.Once installed, you switch from the installation manual to the owner's manual to program the opener. This 36-page document is also very well written and illustrated, but I did have one problem with it while setting the "down" and "up" limits for door travel. When following the first "Programming The Down Limit" procedure, the last step (after establishing the limit and "remembering" the setting) says that two LED lights will flash blue, then go out. While this is true, once the procedure is complete you immediately get two red LEDs that (to me) indicate cause for alarm. I didn't know what to do, so I went to the troubleshooting section where this LED combination says "Limits NOT set properly". I had to assume (and I was correct) that this simply means I had not yet set the "up" limit. I proceeded to that section, and after setting the "up" limit the red LEDs were no longer lit. Whew! The manual really should make this clear.Another thing to be aware of with this type of door opener is that there are no belts, chains, or brackets directly connected to the door that effectively "pull it up" or "push it down". The opener pulls the door up by rotating the torsion bar shaft so the cables connected to the bottom of the door pull it up. That's easily understood, but when lowering the door, there's nothing "pushing" it down. The opener simply rotates the other direction, releasing tension on the cables so that the door comes down via its own weight in a sort of "controlled free-fall". Be aware that if you set the upper travel limit too high so that the vast majority of the raised door's weight is resting on the horizontal door rails that protrude into your garage, the door isn't going to start coming of its own accord down very quickly. This is exacerbated if your horizontal rails are mostly level, or worse, sloping downward away from the opening. I had the problem of the door lowering *very* slowly during the initial phase of a "close" operation, to the point where the cables went fairly slack (cue those "cable keepers" I mentioned above), then as the door started gaining momentum it SLAMMED downward forcing the cables taut, sometimes causing the opener to reverse direction. I fixed this by: 1) Raising the inward end of my door rails one inch above "level", so the door would have more of a tendency to "roll downhill" of its own accord; and 2) resetting the upper travel limit so the door was about one foot shy of its full upper position. Now the door comes down very smoothly and with virtually no initial slack in the cables.Even with the minor documentation nits, I give this product a full five stars, and I'm very satisfied. It's VERY smooth and quiet as a mouse. It has no trouble at all raising this big heavy door, and it's SO much nicer than those old-style units with the long rails, belts or chains and woefully inadequate brackets that warp your door panels.

Downsides: more expensive than other systems, may not fit some very specific and rare garage door/wall/ceiling clearances and designs. The provided staples to secure the provided wires are, to be blunt, completely useless unless you can drive them into exposed wood. They are useless on drywall.NOTE: I bought some screw-based wire fasteners to work with drywall for $5 and threw out the joke staples. This resolved the issue with the only unsatisfactory component in the installation kit.Upsides: Everything else.-This opener is incredibly quiet and the vibration in our upstairs housemates' floor basically vanished along with the noise. If their TV is on they can no longer hear or feel the garage opening at all. You literally have to experience it to believe it - most YouTube comparison videos don't do it justice because their microphone is pointed at the opener which makes the motor whine sound much louder than it actually is.-The installation was easy. It took two dummies with a mish mash of proper and improper tools 8 hours. Someone with the slightest bit of previous knowhow could do this in half the time or less. Installing the ceiling light and wall remote were super easy.-The light and wall remote are wireless, though the wall remote has a wiring option to not rely on battery power. They come mostly pre-programmed from the factory. Pairing the wall remote was a 2-step process that involved 2 buttons and took less than 60 seconds.-The car remote was also pre-programmed.-Everything remote comes with batteries.-This model comes with a battery backup that'll cycle a 16 ft door 10-30 times with power out.-The installation provides more than ample wire for all but the most massive garages.-The deadbolt security lock is a cut above competitors, I think they added some kind of padded internals to stop the loud clack when the lock engages. It's audible but barely. It's also a nice feature on jackshaft openers that makes your door almost impossible to open when locked without specialized tools.-The ceiling light is impressively bright for a 20x20 standard 2 car garage.Combined this with DURA-LIFT Titan Premium 2 in. Sealed 6200ZZ Nylon Garage Door Rollers because after installing the door, the rollers were the loudest remaining part of the system. The combination is incredible, and the lack of vibration will make the entire system last longer. Can't recommend this garage upgrade enough for attached garages where the system's noise is at all an inconvenience,

The media could not be loaded. https://amzn.to/4cISDXPThis garage door lift exceeded expectations! It looks fantastic in our garage and was super easy to install. Despite its compact size, it delivers powerful performance. The build quality is solid, and I’ll definitely be purchasing more for my shop. 100% worth the investment!