ECO-WORTHY 12A Boost MPPT Solar Charge Controller Solar Panel Regulator for 48V/60V/72V Lead-Acid, LiFePO4, Gel, Flooded Batteries .etc in Golf Cart Electric Vehicles and Solar System

Works perfect with their Solar panel we got for our Golf cart.

On page 4 of the EcoWorthy web manual it says to connect the battery first. While this is normal for MPPT controllers, it does not work with the model as of 10/2024. The updated Eco-Worthy manual on the Amazon product page has the correct page 4 instructions, Connect the solar panel first to get a working display that can then be voltage adjusted.I set up a return on the unit based on the info in the old manual, but then read a similar controller manual from another OEM and tried connecting the solar panels first and the display came on. Then I found the updated version on Amazon.The unit seems to work well and have charge a couple of RadCycle cargo bike 48v 15Ah e-bike batteries from a 40 year old 85 watt PV panel. Half fill in 6 hours at 51.8v 1.2A on the boost charger read-out. I could use a bigger panel, but good enough for me.

PLEASE NOTE!Directions say hook battery up first which is normal for most mppt charge controllers!THIS IS WRONG! HOOK SOLAR PANEL FIRST, SET CHARGE VOLTAGE , THEN HOOK UP BATTERY!!!Installed on a golf cart keeps cart charged daily.

Very efective litle charger, works fine on a Kiwo 4 wheel Cart from Waldos, this in combination wiith an 400 W Solarpanel as roof top, mantains the lead acid batteries always fully charged.Setup of the charger easy without trouble.Delivery was very fast also.Recomended

This little device has no documentation and is rather quirky, but it does fill a niche. Basically it's a boost supply, so it will boost the solar input voltage UPWARD to charge a battery. It is NOT a buck-boost. It is boost-only.There is a little battery selector switch for 48V, 60V, and 72V. This controls the voltage range that you can set with the SET button. When 48V is selected you can set a target voltage between 18.8V and 59.9V. When 60V is selected you can do 60V-75V. And when 72V is selected you can do 75.1V to 89.9VTo set the target voltage, hold the SET button until it goes into programming mode. Then release. Then hold or momentary to increment through the voltages. When done just leave it and it returns to operating mode.The spec sheet says it can handle 12V to 50V on its input, so the panel VOC has to be 50V or less. I ran some tests with a current-limited power supply. For a battery target in the 24V range it looks like it can start charging with an input voltage of 13V. For a battery target in the 48V or higher range it seems to need at least 20V on the solar input, maybe a bit more to be stable.So this device can be really useful to pushing very high voltages with not very much solar.WARNINGS! I found the following:* If the solar input voltage is higher than the battery voltage, it will feed the input to the output uncontrolled and possibly blow its fuse. This primarily impacts anyone trying to charge a 24V battery with this device. Be sure that the solar VOC is less than the battery voltage, and make doubly sure that the solar VOC is less than your configured target voltage!* The MPPT really moves around quite a bit and is not stable when driven from a power supply. If you do connect a power supply, it MUST be a current limited power supply or you are flirting with danger.* It is unclear how well this device regulates input current. Do NOT over-panel the input! Output current is limited to 5A (NOTE: If the input voltage is higher than the target voltage, it can feed an unlimited amount of current and thus may blow its 10A fuse).* It is unclear whether the device floats the battery after charging. So far in my testing it just holds the requested output voltage indefinitely. This means that it can potentially overcharge whatever battery you are trying to charge so be aware of that. There is no "float" voltage setting. The only voltage setting is the target voltage.* The output voltage is NOT WELL REGULATED. It must be connected to a battery. I tested with a 24V LFP battery and when I disconnected it the output of the MPPT shot up to 30V before slowly dribbling back down. Do not try to use this device as a power supply, you will blow something up. I also recommend that you not charge the target battery all the way to BMS cut-off since that will cause a voltage overshoot when it cuts off.* Efficiency seems to be fairly good considering its a boost converter, at least 90%. Its a bit hard to button down because it fluctuates so much on the power supply I'm using to test it.So, its a quirky device but it does appear to (mostly) work as advertised. I will give it three stars.-Matt

The media could not be loaded. I got two 24 volt batteries connected connected to my charge controller and the charge controllers connected to a 75 w 12 volt panel is 19 volt open circuit at 12 volt load and discharge controller is charging at around 1.5 amps and the batteries are 12 amp hour put together and it'll charge both of them in about 4 hours I tried charging my 48 volt e-bike and it will charge it but if you want to charge more than 24 volts you need to put at least a 18 volt panel on it 24 volt would be best but a 18 volt panel will charge 48 volts with this controller for sure

My initial panels were a 300 & 150w in series (450w).I found that the battery wasn’t getting enough charge and proved unsatisfactory.I then switched and installed this controller with 2x300w (each 930 x540mm) flexible panels and cart stays fully charged. I used 2” Velcro and gaffer tape so no holes in roof. Set voltage to 58.4. On a sunny day the volts drop to around 54v. Ohms law 600 divided by 54 = 11amps. The controller is rated at 12amps. The 10A fuse will have to be replaced with a 15A. This may not comply with Eco Worthy but it works for me as I visit a golf Resort where lithium batteries are prohibited to be charged. The only problem is the tow run switch needs resetting occasionally.and I’m not sure why this occurs. I may add that the panels are low profile and not noticeable. I had to extend the front panel cable (mc4 connector) to reach the controller which is located under the roof at the rear. I than ran 6mm cable from controller to battery. Hope this helps

Idk it blew eventually. Also put out 5 amps I bought the sunyima one to replace the burnt up one because it would ship faster. Turns out that one puts out 10 amps in otherwise the same setup. Buy this one if you like it in the butt.