Polymaker PolyLite PETG Transparent 1.75 mm 1kg

I love this filament for 3D printing guitar picks. People would normally say that 3D printing guitar picks isn't a great idea, but I disagree. And with this filament, it makes them have great durability. This filament has more give than other PLA and PLA+s I've seen, so that's great for accommodating the needed flexibility in light and medium guitar picks. I have a pick that I printed over a year ago now, and it's still going strong. It's only degrading how any other pick would and at about the same if not a slowed rate.The filament is kind of expensive, it comes in a reduced spool, and there isn't the 5 dollars off the pink and cyan like there used to be, so I haven't tried this filament for much else, but I can't imagine it would be a bad choice.

Purchased a couple rolls of Polymaker filaments on a massive Prime day sale a while back, hadn't gotten around to this roll until just recently.Absolute dream to work with so far, prints smoothly at normal speeds 50-75mm/s, haven't tried it faster yet. Overall the colour and consistency look great, the spool appears to be nicely wound with no tangles thus far (I've encountered a few with other brands, and am happy this doesn't appear to be an issue with Polymaker filaments thus far), prints are all pretty solid and smooth, absolutely no problems with adhesion or removal after printing.Polymaker is fast becoming my go to when I need reliable quality prints even if the price tag is a bit more on the premium side most of the year, it's worth paying a little extra to not have to babysit my prints for tangles and poor adhesion issues I've found in other brands. Makes me wish I stocked up on Prime day.Absolutely will and have purchased again, this time in orange which just arrived today and is just as wonderful as the previous ones.

Super strong, easy printing, great product. #PolymakerShillFor a more detailed understanding of PolyMax PLA, you need to understand Polylite PLA and PLA Pro.Polylite PLA will snap if you bend it.PolyMax PLA will bend and show white stress marks but won't snap.PLA Pro is in the middle of the two. It will bend half way, show stress marks, and then snap.PolyLite is already stronger then the average PLA I've purchased or have seen, but PolyMax is crazy. I made a hammer, nail, and picture bracket and was able to punch straight through my wall. That picture has been hanging for the past few months.

I do not write reviews often but in the case of this filament, absolutely. I have always used Hatchbox for my PETG needs, but no longer. The filament was shipped in the normal brown Poly box but vacuum sealed in a non-reusable bag. That is ok with me because I knew when I opened the package, the hiss let me know it was sealed correctly. As always, dry out your filament, especially PETG. I let this run at 54c for 8 hours before using. This is not my first translucent filament but it has been the EASIEST to print with. Stringing is basically non-existent, adhesion is not a factor and the quality of the prints are immaculate. I have tried countless filaments over the years from all manufacturers. Poly is my go to PLA using PLA Pro or Polylite because I have never had one issue with their filaments, so why not try their PETG. Yes this comes in a cardboard roll which I am fine with.Right now I am printing this with heavy infill because I need the strength but the transparency is VERY good even with 40% infill. Printing with a larger nozzle, less infill, thicker walls, and post-processing will give you a clearer finish. Print this slower than PLA. You can also go down to .1 and REALLY slow printing for a very clear finish, but will lose strength and time printing.PETG can be a little tricky if you do not have the correct temps / retractions. Surprisingly, I print this at a lower temp than other PETG filaments. I am running a Titan Direct Drive so my retraction settings will differ from a Bowden setup. I have printed this with Marlin without issue and currently running Klipper with BETTER results.Setup: Creality CR10-v3 STOCKBed: G10When printing on Glass I raise 5cCura Settings for a stronger PETG print (Currently using settings for fan ducts for Hero Me G7).4 brass nozzle.2 layer height.4 line width1.2 wall thickness2 Top Surface Skin LayersMonotonic Top/Bottom UncheckedSkin in Z Gaps UncheckedIroning Unchecked40% infillConnect Infill Lines UncheckedTemp 235Build Plate 80Initial Layer Bottom Flow 108%Print Speed 40mm/sMy Titan Extruder Retraction settingsEnable RetractionRetract at Layer change CheckedRetraction Distance .8Retraction Speed 45mm/sRetract before outer wall CheckedLimit Support Retractions UncheckedEnable Print cooling UNCHECKED <----------With Klipper, turn off all Acceleration Control, Jerk Control, Z Hop when retracted. Take your time with the Klipper setup and go through each step in order, not skipping. If you walked through all Klipper settings, everything will print GREAT. If not, blame the user and not the tools. I skipped a couple the first time through and was so confused as to why everyone loved Klipper because my results were terrible. Impatience got me. I went through the setup again (took my time, couple days), and I am sold. I will not go back to Marlin.For a good print, everyone should make sure a couple of things are in order regardless of slicer, firmware or printer...1. Your bed is level2. No seriously, take the time and level your damn bed3. Do not write bad reviews because filaments do not stick to your unlevel bed4. ESTEPS. Tune them, per roll, not per filament. It can change from roll to roll. Also, tune your ESTEPS at the temperature you are going to print at (start a spreadsheet and keep track of settings to cut down on the time it takes when changing rolls).5. Correct temperatures. This can also change PER ROLL and depending on how dry it is. If you hear a slight pop sound, too much moisture.6. Bed adhesion. I have used Carborundum glass beds, thick mirrors, HomeDepot 12in mirrors and now G10. There is ONE common factor to all of them, do not touch the bed. EVER. Wash the bed with dish soap and water, then dry with a clean, lint free cloth. Glass beds would require me to clean them every few prints. G10, pfft. I just wipe it down with the blue shop roll paper towels and done. Now if I TOUCH the bed, I clean it with dish soap and water. You can also use 99.99% alcohol to wipe the beds down as well. Spend $20 and get a G10 sheet. You will not be sorry.Happy Printing!

It might be the best stuff I've used. It'll still melt like PLA and it's a bit softer, but its impact resistant, has better integrity, and if you're tuned in it prints like silk. Heavily recommend.