General Motors GM Genuine Parts 13505369 Battery Current Sensor

After running into a "Service Battery Charging System" on my 2008 Yukon, and checking that the battery and alternator is in good condition, I found out that this sensor is the culprit. I replaced this sensor and started the vehicle up, and it worked right away without error.The battery gauge on my 2008 Yukon was much more responsive after the sensor change and it ran much smoother. So far, 300+ miles on it and no errors to be found. This is a legitimate AC Delco part and installed and functions just like the original.Next time you run into this error and your alternator and battery is still in good condition - replace this sensor, it is most likely the culprit and you'll save a lot of $ in the process.

First of all, with the vehicle warmed up and in closed loop, stop the engine and remove the connector from this sensor. Turn the key back on and with a good digital voltmeter probe pin A on the connector (with the connector release up it will be the pin on the right) and assure it reads 5 volts (mine read 5.04 volts). If it reads 10 volts you need the 1st design. This voltage is from the BCM (body control module) and for certain models in the 2011 year the BCM controls charging. This arrangement was changed back for 2012 on my vehicle, so (like me) you may need to do some research (not to mention fervent prayer).Used this sensor on my 2011 Silverado to fix a problem that started when I jumped it off (yes they really mean it when they say don't jump it off). I had already replaced the battery and alternator; no joy. I may have damaged the sensor changing the battery out in the parking lot at night.You have to slip it on over the ends of the cable, i.e. remove the stud bolt on the front of the left cylinder head (I have 5.3L V8) and remove the splash shield on the bottom to access the end of the smaller cable from the bottom (10mm head on the bolt is facing forward).After you slip it over the ends of the negative cables tape it to the negative cable in the same position as the old one (mine was 13 inches from the negative battery post clamp. Refasten the ends and re-secure the cable in the plastic retainers (2 of them) and push the plastic anchor into the hole on the side of the battery tray.This sensor fixed my problem; hope it will work well for you too. Recommended.

I had some car troubles on and off since February 2022, starting off with the Battery Charging System light coming on and going off multiple times until one day it stayed then the Battery Saver Active warning came up. Shortly after this happened, the car would not start again unless it was jumped, so I had it taken to a shop and paid $265 for the new battery and installation in my 2013 Cadillac ATS 3.6L Luxury.2 weeks later, it happened again. This time I went to the dealership and they insisted it was a dead battery, so I had them replace it, $350 this time, and received a full refund on the previous one.About a month later, the Battery Charging System and Battery Saver Active lights/warnings started coming on again, car battery showing around 11 volts, then as I was driving it dipped down to about 10.5 before I parked in my driveway, then it wouldn’t start again unless jumped.I had it jumped and drove it back to the dealership where they insisted it was the alternator which I had actually replaced a few years prior. The dealership wanted to charge me $1100 to replace it, so I opted to go back to the parts store I purchased the first one at and get a replacement for free with the lifetime warranty. I then installed the alternator.A few months later, the lights/warnings came back with the battery voltage again hovering around 11 volts, so I thought for sure I was in for a $1000+ service bill from the dealership. I ordered this battery current sensor as a last ditch effort to avoid the hefty service bill. I installed it which was pretty simple overall, started the car back up and watched the battery gauge shoot up to a solid 14.5 volts. As I started to drive, the volts dipped down to about 12.5 which is perfectly fine/normal. When accelerating, it would push back up toward 14 or so.It’s been a couple of days and the voltage has been reading at/over 14 most of the time and none of the lights have returned. Long story short, start with the $16 part first, then move to the battery, then to the alternator. You can save yourself a lot of time, frustration and money going in that order!***12/1/22 update*** Car died on me while driving again a couple of days ago. Tow truck driver jumped it before towing immediately citing a dead alternator and to avoid refurbished alternators (which is what the one I purchased/replaced from Advance Auto was before). I ordered a replacement sensor and replaced that first and I’m back up and running. Not sure this is a permanent fix seeing as I have now replaced the sensor a second time, but the $20 investment is still far better than the alternator replacement alternative!***Additional update*** I sold the car on 4/1/23 and did not experience these issues again from 12/1/22. In short, replace this part first before anything else!

I just install this part waiting to see if it holds up so far, it's working fine. I will follow up with a review

Good product 👍

Just what I needed I didn't have to go to a dealership to get it received it the next day auto part stores didn't have it.

Even after fully charging and replacing the battery, I still got a “Battery Saver Active” message upon every start up. I changed the sensor over the negative battery cable and the message disappeared!

Did not fit 2014 Chevy Malibu 2.5l i4