NOYITO Voltage Relay Module Upper Lower Limit Detection Control Switch Off ON Over Voltage Protection Battery Charge Discharge Timing (24V)

I used this device to detect the rise in voltage when the vehicle alternator is on as I did not want to run an alternator control wire from front to back on my van. It also has a readout of the input battery voltage and upper and lower voltage limits work great to turn a DC to DC charger on and off. It can also be used for a secondary battery charging application. The document English instructions use some broken English, but simply press SET to step through each setting and enter to adjust the setting values.

There are probably more uses for this controller than can be counted. I am using it on a solar battery system to control a battery balancer. It was easy to set it to close its contacts and start the balancer when the battery reaches a set voltage. It then turns the balancer off when the battery voltage drops to a preset value.I have been using it continuously for the past 18 months and it has worked flawlessly. Hard to believe that a product such as this can be produced so reasonably.

I used this to trigger the dc to dc charger for the lithium batteries in my Class C RV. I set it to close the relay at 13.5 volts and to open the relay below 12.7 volts. I ran the wire from the original isolation solenoid through the relay contacts to the dc to dc charger so now it requires the engine to be running to turn on the DC - DC charger. It was easy to set the voltage levels using the built in display which was very close to the readings on my digital multimeter.

Revisit 11-6-2024: This build still is pretty solid but due to an inability to get the dual red board timer I have created another version using 2 separate timers added a sensor to show when the engine is running and a smart control to be able to remote start the circuit. If interested send an email to chris.owen09 using Google's email services. I looked this up due to needing to research a few things about this circuit and share it with an offgridgang.com group and noticed some typing issues so fixed much of this documented project. I am still working with this making active updates to the project for improvements.OK so I have had some issues with the initial programming, So I spent some time, WELL lots of time shorting a battery down to the target voltage takes time.SO I will update the below with what I did.The Voltage monitor instructions are ruff to read, so I spent a lot of trial and error to get it just right for me.The UPPER voltage is the first screen you see in programming set it to a voltage you will not see I used 20The LOWER voltage is the 2nd screen, this is how far down the battery can get before sending a signal to start the process.The Voltage correction or 3rd screen is for adjusting the voltage read by the monitor and the actual voltage of the batter according to a meter. This will depend on the board you buy since this is more to adjust its accuracy, I set mine to -.1 to match the actual voltage readings. You will need to check yours and adjust for yourself.The 4th screen is the time it takes to turn off the screen reading dL the zero is always on any number after that it takes minutes to turn off. I like mine on alwaysIn the dual timer component, I tweaked that some because of a countdown issue that I just did not like, it looked like a BOMB counting down through the window and still does but only when the engine is running now. I changed that to program 12 instead of 13, so the first screen sets the countdown to keep the engine on and the 2nd screen no longer needs to be set.I will update this more if I see other things that I do not like.So the pictures show how I merged the circuits.Step by step.So I used 6 color wire at 14awg for mine you could do this with 18awg which is smaller.Red is the positive and Black is the negative for the power to run the circuit.Yellow is Engine Start positive.Green is Engine Run positive.White Positive and Grey/Blue negative are the battery monitor wires.You will need power in order to program the boards as described below.Wiring is important, if you set this wrong your monitor won't work as desired.The connection on the timer board will read as below.NC is normally closed, we will not use that function.NO is normally open, this is the side that closes when the circuit activates.C is common for the positive voltage to actuate the relays.CH1 and CH2 are the activate input from the voltage monitor to start the timer we programmed.DC+ and DC- are the input voltages to run the circuit.On the Voltage monitor, there are screw terminals on the board, the 2 on the right by themselves are voltage inputs to run the circuit Red and Black go here, Black on the top, and Red below it, you need to connect this up using proper polarity.Now the top row of terminals is where the input for monitored voltage and to signal the timer to start are located.Let us get started making these connections.So with the Red and Black cables on the right as pictured your INPUT voltage to run the circuit can be 9V~18V (what I have used). To sense voltage make sure the jumper is on the 2 and 3 pin that is the center and right pins. 1 and 2 would work for a switch-forced activation.Now the screw terminals on the top of this board are where the magic happens and need to be connected as described.If we number these 1 to 7 left to right (we are only using the first 4 in this DIY)Terminal 1 is positive voltage monitoring input (This is the battery + (White) that you want to monitor for voltage drop that causes the engine to start)Terminal 2 is negative voltage monitoring input (This is the battery - (Grey/Blue) that you want to monitor for voltage drop that causes the engine to start)Terminal 3 is what we will call the TRIP or signal output for the timer use color for the positive signal that will link this to the CH terminals (link both of them) (we will get to that in a bit.)Terminal 4 is the COMMON positive connection this should run from the Red positive feed used to power the monitor.Now to signal the timer we need to connect it in this manner.On the timer we need power and it should be connected where DC+ Red and DC- Black are connected to the Red and Black wires where the voltage feed is connected to where the voltage monitor gets the input voltage.CH1 and CH2 are bridged together and connected to the TRIP signal positive power which is the Terminal 3 output from the monitor.Terminal 4 is connected to the Red wire on the power supply for the voltage monitor terminals.All of my RED and BLACK wires go to a white terminal block for easier and cleaner connections to the Red Black feed wires.That completes the circuit connection as the change of voltage happens the circuit should activate below a defined level and the LED display and indicators will signal which relay is active and for how long.Now The White wire connects to the Positive side of the "monitored battery"Now The Grey/Blue wire connects to the Negative side of the "monitored battery"This is what will cause the circuit to function and start the engine when the voltage drops below the defined level as described below.The display on the circuit will show 0.0 if no voltage is connected to the White Grey/Blue wires yet that is the monitored voltage, once you connect the circuit to POWER the circuit will start doing its job, there is NO engine sense, so the circuit will try to start if the VOLTAGE is below the set level (I set as12.0), the tests I have done the signal will trip both relays and the START relay will only trip one time, the RUN will run until the countdown ends, BUT if the trip signals again it will start the count down over so an engine run sense could be possible.You need to connect the wires White and Grey/Blue to what battery you are monitoring, it will display the voltage that it detects. Note: If voltage drops below the level set (of 12.0) that will cause the engine to start automatically.IMPORTANT! SAFETY ADDITION FOR THE CIRCUIT!I added a switch with a protective cover to keep the circuit live for normal operation but I had to break the key tab on the cover so that the cover could be reversed so that when CLOSED, it would keep the switch on instead of off you must raise the cover to switch the circuit off.Reasoning:Normally the circuit would be on, but if you need to take the vehicle to the shop for work, YOU DO NOT WANT the engine to start unexpectedly due to low voltages, while it is being worked on, this is something many mechanics would not expect.So to SAFE the circuit you would flip open the cover and turn OFF the lighted switch to indicate that the auto start is NO LONGER functional. ALSO I encourage you to CLEARLY put signs about this AUTO start function under the hood, door frame near the VIN, and on the DASH to provide warnings and also train the mechanic how to check that it is OFF!OPERATION CONCERN:I noticed that once I turned on the circuit and when the monitor detects a low voltage, the ENGINE will resume AUTO run functions with no pre-notice of pending start-up.So you need to alert users and mechanics about this for their SAFETY! No one wants an engine to start while they have their hand in a dangerous area.The Red positive connects to the 12V side of the switchThe Black wire connects to the side of the switchThe 20A side of the switch connects to the White wire block pictured.The cover needs to be installed so that it opens to the OFF side of the switch but closing it will turn on the LED and the circuit (You will need to remove the key pin on the switch plate)FINAL CONNECTION:So to wire this to the vehicle, you NEED to research your vehicle's harness or take this to a shop that installs alarms and pay them to connect this.To actuate the starter and engine run you need to connect the dual relays. the GREEN and YELLOW wires, I have opted to ADD automotive high power relays 30amp or more to the circuit for the RUN and start just to be safe and not burn out the circuit.Relay 1 is the lower relay in my programming belowRelay 2 is the upper relay as per the programming below.NO from relay 1 to a high-power auto relay for the START (YELLOW)NO from relay 2 to a high-power auto relay for the RUN (GREEN)C is common and you need to bridge these together and run it to the Red voltage positive wire on the timer board DC+.Put boards in the box to set the stand-offs inside the box, using the boards drill a hole for the stand-offs for the boards, then drill a hole so the switch is offset from the stand-offs, install the switch then finally install of the board. Make 6 holes for the wires to run through. match a bit for the size of the wire. The switch hole just matches a bit to the nut or the cover plate.Run the wires through the drilled holes on the side.PROGRAMMING:I detailed above some things I figured out with trial and error.Things you need to knowNum+ and Num- change the value on the display.SW1 changes the relay program step.SWI changes the position of the number to changeT1 and T2 are the Timers per relay each has a T1 and T2NX is the timer on off time I did not set this on mine.SET enters and leaves setup mode when pushed for 2 seconds and a tap moves between functions when pushed.Relay 1 will be the engine start (just long enough to start the engine)Relay 2 will be the engine run (mine is set for several minutes)The dual relay count-down control for engine start and run function and how I set mine follows, this took some trial and error to figure out.To start you should at least have Power Red Black connected. As soon as you supply power the Timer will always start the engine, I am looking for a way to cancel this.The monitored voltage wires are the White and Grey/Blue. The run and start do not need to be connected yet. Your connections will vary based on the vehicle. My truck uses an alarm and a bypass so I just send a signal to that which is already connected to the starter, the green is connected to the ignition so that after the module shuts off the project I built will still be running.PROGRAMMING STEPS: (I will not go into all the various functions just how I did it on mine) Up top I detail some things I figured out if you need to scroll up.Press the set button and hold until the last digit blinks which is about 2 seconds of pressing the button you need to change this as follows.Now the display should read 1-12 for relay 1 and the function you want with this board is #12. (num+ to change values) 12 disables the T2 functioning.(this next part is timing, you can set it like mine)Note: Each setting will show a LED on the board for the associated item you are working with.press the set button to set T1 and then the SWI to the segment you want to change I did this as 2 this is for closing the relay. It should read as 0002 This is how long to close the relay (NO side) for, this should read 2 for most vehicles starting systems change the value to 2 or more for your engine starting time.press the set button again for T2 and that should be zeroPress the set button again and that is the NX for this you set the multiplier speed I left mine along for this relay.press the set button into NX this reads 0001 this is the multiplier for the timer, I set mine to 1, so change the value to 1.press the set button again takes you back to 1-12 then the end of that programming.press the set button and hold for about 2 seconds to save.The start timer is set nowNext, if this does not automatically change to the 2nd relay then push the SW1 button to change the display so it should read 2- and a value.Now similar steps.Press the set button and hold until the last digit blinks which is about 2 secondsNow it should read 2-12 this is for the relay 2 and the function of this needs to be mode #12, use num+ buttons to set this for 12.(this is the run timing section) (This is a balance of fuel consumption and charging time)press the set button for T1 and to 9000 this is for closing the relay. This is how long to close the relay (NO side) for, this is how long of a run time you wish for the engine to run in seconds so change the value to this for your run time.press the set button again to change to T2 and this should be 0000press the set button again to NX and this needs to be 0002, this is the multiplier for the timer I set mine to 2 to be more like seconds, the larger this number the slower it counts down, 1 was pretty fast.press the set button again takes you back to 2-12Press and hold set to saveEach time I saved the relay on mine clicked thus starting the program. which had started the countdowns for each relay set, which is why I did programming before connecting to the vehicle start and run(ignition) under the dash. The connection is based on YOUR vehicle wiring,Voltage monitor board programming:you have 2 things to concern yourself with checking.The Jumper on the top right of the board should be set or moved to the center and right pin for voltage control of the circuit pins 2 and 3. To the left is a push button momentary which defeats our use.The function of the buttons on the bottom of the board below the display is called Set and Enter which allows the programming.now simply press the set button and the display blinksbe careful not to hold the button too long as that changes the way the relay will operate, an LED will light to the right top corner to indicate this change. Pressing the button long again will change it back. Changing this will alter my instructions.In the first screen set this to 20.0 This is the UPPER voltage we are not really using this but it needs to be set.Press the SW again and this is the Actual voltage that will keep the circuit inactive until the low voltage is present, so long as the voltage is above that measurement the circuit will wait.using the Enter button to change the first segment to a value of 1,pressing set will change the segment to the right where you use enter to change that to 1,pressing set will change the segment to the right again and there you press enter to change that to 0 if not already set.This can be any voltage you want here.AGAIN That is the voltage where once you fall below that level it causes the circuit to activate.You can not set this to a value GREATER than the first value you set, (I was confused by the instructions trying to set this, trial by error and running the battery below a voltage helped)Using the Enter button make sure or change the value to 1, it can only be 1 or zero. This setting is the correction for the voltage read, use a meter to see what your voltage is as this is dependent on the board you have to its precise measurement, mine had to be set to -.1Set again changes the display to dL set it to 0 I like mine on all the time.set again completes programming.IF you set this up the same way I have then when the voltage drops below The value you set 11vDC in mine, the relay on the monitor will close to signal the CH terminals on the dual timer that activates the countdown.If you want to learn how the board's many modes work, google or read the included instructions with the boards. This took me some time to work out an effective control which changed up the pictures of the design to follow my build.I also worked on the programming as I typed this up and have done some tweaking in my truck that is still ongoing. I will not go into every function of these boards, there are about 40 combinations. The instructions are included may be ruff to read though, my goal was to set up an engine start when low voltage is detected and to run for a set period of time. That is what this circuit does. Again I can not state this ENOUGH, ADD A DISCONNECT for service of your vehicle and provide sufficient notice to your service persons about the AUTO start as soon as the switch is turned back on. There is NO alarm to notify that the engine is about to start due to low voltage!!! I am looking for a way to cancel the timer but I have not found one yet.This box when closed has a seal under the cover.Engine auto starts Basic Install Instructions.The Switch should be open and in the OFF positionThe Yellow is the Engine Start connectionThe Green is the Engine Run connectionRed is constant power and Black is GroundWhite is a Positive Voltage monitorBlue/Grey is a Negative Voltage monitor and can be combined with a shared negative but in a floating system, you should have 2 wires to the other battery in the system.The Green cover now should be closed to activate the circuit.Once the monitor voltage that is detected falls below the set voltage the engine will start and run for several minutes then shut down and monitor again.Deactivate the Green switch to prevent the AUTO start function.PARTS LIST: Search for like items to make what I built.NOYITO Voltage Relay Module Upper Lower Limit Detection Control Switch Off ON Over Voltage Protection Battery Charge Discharge Timing (12V)MakerHawk Multi-Function DC 12V Time Delay Relay Module with Self-Locking Cycle Timing PLZulkit Junction Box ABS Plastic Dustproof Waterproof IP67 Junction Boxes Universal Electrical Project Enclosure Durable DIY Electronic Project Box Grey 6.30 x 3.15 x 2.17 inch (160 x 80 x 55 mm)MGI SpeedWare LED Toggle Switch 12V 20A SPST ON/Off with Aircraft Safety Cover (Green, 3-Pack)14awg Silicone Electrical Wire Cable 6 Colors (5ft Each) 14 Gauge Hookup Wires kit Stranded Tinned Copper Wire Flexible and SoftASI MY8HW-1.2-8.0-2P Euro Style Terminal Strip Panel Mount, 2 Position, 8 mm Pitch, 20 Amp, 600V, 20 - 12 AWG, White Nylon, Horizontal Wire Entry (Pack of 50)(You do not need but one of these)uxcell M3 Male-Female Brass Hex PCB Motherboard Spacer Standoff Screw Nut Kit for FPV Drone Quadcopter, Computer & Circuit Board 120pcsESUPPORT 12V 30A Car Motor Heavy Duty Relay Socket Plug 4Pin Fuse Switch On/Off SPST Wire Harness Metal Pack of 2

There were no instructions with this product. Without it it's just about useless.

I like how easily programmable the board is. The first one I got was a dud and wouldn't supply power through the relay but I ordered a replacement and it arrived in less than a day

This is a nice little control module and comes with usable instructions. It can be used in many different ways and was easy to figure out how to get it to deliver what I sought. Also easy to set/reset and intuitive to adjust to dial in a bit later. It's especially useful that it has a sense input. I was using it in the 14 V range and limited to 5 amps. After a couple weeks of working it shorted its output causing the solar controller input to error out. Since it has a fair number of good reviews maybe I just got a rare bad one. I might try another.

I used these to make a customer interface for a 0-10V lighting to allow dimming and override of an existing light. The module was easy to set and the voltage measurement is pretty accurate. Made my job much easier.