GDI IVD Intake Valve & Turbo Cleaner

This stuff is awesome takes awhile to get through the bottle but it was worth it I had a intermediate Misfire at idle it got rid of it no more misfire and the car runs what I feel is healthier under acceleration definitely worth them money easy to use

Uses this on my wife's cx9, my cx5, and my trailblazer, with impressive results! Follow the simple directions to a T, and I personally recommend changing sparks plugs after, you burn a lot of crud. Definitely more power, faster acceleration, and even gas mileage has improved. Well worth it, likely to become a part of my yearly tune-up regiment.

I used this this weekend on my 2001 car with 65,000 miles on it, it also has a mpi type of injection instead of the gdi as it is commonly used on. The car did not smoke white once during it's use spraying the production in as some have mentioned but it did idle rough as soon as I disconnected the air intake hose from the throttle body. I don't think the spray itself made the car idle any worse. But when the spraying was done, removed it and reconnected air intake hose and it immediately idled smoothly again and then I shut it off and let it sit for the time required. After that time I took it for a drive which was still smooth, but after a while of driving the check light flashed a few times off and on and then went out. Sometime thereafter the big cloud of white smoke came out of the exhaust and then nothing else out of the normal. Now today, a day later I noticed the car is idling as smooth as it did when it was new and also is very hard to hear running it is so smooth and starting is better too. I have to guess that it did work. It has increased take offs and overall power so I suspect it will affect the gas mileage too, when I check that. Thank you.

I use this product every 10,000 miles. After applying it, the engine runs much smoother. I can only assume this is the direct result of clean valves. The CDC Valve and Turbo Cleaner is made from the same detergents found in gasoline. In a low pressure fuel injected car, gasoline goes over the valves. High quality gasoline includes detergents to keep the engine clean. Direct Injected cars / trucks put the fuel directly into the cylinder. This means the valves are not cleaned by the detergents in the gasoline. CDC Valve and Turbo Cleaner (V&TC) solves the problem. The first time I applied the product (V&TC), I saw gunk on the rear of my car. This presumably came from the valves. The next time I applied the product, I did not notice the gunk on my car. To me, this is an indication V&TC is working. The first two times, I disassembled the intake to spray V&TC into the intake. The third time, I found a vacuum line (brake booster) and applied the product to the vacuum line. Applying though the vacuum line is the easiest way to spray the product into the upper engine. However, this means only the exhaust side of the turbo is cleaned. I have not removed the intake manifold and used a borescope to inspect the valves. That's a bit more than I want to do. I judge the product on the way my car runs. Based on this, CRC Valve and Turbo Cleaner does its job.

I did two successive treatments at about 1,000 miles apart, then I changed the oil. Just before I changed the oil, I sent an oil sample to Blackstone Labs for analysis. No engine damage was detected in the analysis (see report in photo). I'm docking one star off this product because it's a bit scary to use. The first time I used it: the engine knocked, pinged, misfired, and the check engine light came on during the test drive. The light turned itself off after a few restarts and 50 miles of driving. The second time I used the product, when the engine knocked, pinged, and misfired, I pulled over to the side of the road, put the car in park (or neutral), and revved the engine a few times (not exceeding 3,500 rpm per instruction). This cleared out the excess (lots of smoke came out the tailpipe) and I did not get a check engine light. If you get a check engine light, it's most likely due to the engine running too rich since CRC GDI IVD is petrol based. The engine light should turn itself off after a few drives or use a scan tool to erase the fault codes. To keep the engine at 2,000 rpm while spraying, I built a rig using Reach 'n Spray and some bicycle brake parts (see photo). That way I can spray and sit in the driver's seat. Originally, I used a fuel line to extend the straw to the vacuum port (see photo), but the Technical Support Staff at CRC advised me to spray directly else the solution may not atomize properly which may lead to engine or catalytic converter damage. Here's the instruction: 1. Warm up the engine 2. Spray in 1-second bursts and 1-second rests while keeping RPM at 2,000 until can is empty 3. Rev engine 3 times not exceeding 3,500 RPM, then idle for 1 minute 4. Shut engine off and wait 1 hour 5. Start engine, rev engine a few times not exceeding 3,500 RPM to clear out excess, and drive at highway speed for at least 10 minutes. (If the engine runs rough, pull to the side of the road, put the transmission in park or neutral, and rev engine a few times (do not exceed 3,500 rpm per instruction) until no more smoke comes out of tailpipe, then continue driving at highway speed.) If your engine continues to run rough, repeat the above procedure to clear out the excess solution. Do not put a heavy load on your engine or drive at highway speed until the knocks, pings, and misfires are gone (you may damage your engine). I sprayed through a vacuum port closest to the throttle body. By spraying through that vacuum port, I keep the spray atomized and avoid accidentally spraying the MAF sensor. Do not spray the MAF sensor as this could trigger a check engine light or damage the MAF. Here's my understanding: CRC GDI IVD Cleaner uses polyether amine (PEA) as detergent. This detergent needs a heat soak to help emulsify with the carbon. Then when heated the emulsion vaporizes and goes into the cylinder and out the exhaust. The cleaning process is slow: if you have 100,000 miles on your engine the average amount of carbon removed from your valve is about 10-20%. I plan to do this cleaning procedure before every oil change. NOTE Lexus IS250: For better distribution of cleaning solution to all cylinders, use the EVAP port or the PCV port on the air surge tank (upper intake manifold) to shoot in your cleaner (see Photo with ports labeled). The Toyota ACIS (Acoustic Control Induction System) divides the air intake into upper and lower paths. You want to shoot the cleaning solution before the divide. Only the EVAP and PCV ports are before the divide. All other ports connect to the upper path, so the lower path is not cleaned. When spraying into the EVAP port, temporarily use a 5/16 inch diameter hose to bridge from the EVAP VSV to the UNUSED vacuum port (see photo). WARNING: You can damage the engine if it hydrolocks. Be sure to maintain 2,000 RPM and spray in short bursts. For added safety, you can rev the engine 2-3 times every 30 to 45 seconds to prevent puddling of the cleaning solution in the intake tract. The EVAP (PURGE) or PCV ports are the recommended ports to use (other ports may not distribute the solution properly causing engine or catalytic converter damage).

Siguiendo las instrucciones es muy fácil de usar. Asegúrate de aplicarlo por la succión correcta de tu motor, si tienes dudas busca en youtube como hacerlo para tu vehículo en especifico. Lo use hace años en una Mitsubishi L200 2.5 Turbo Diesel, cuando esta tenia 120 mil kilómetros, use dos botes ya que nunca había tenido una limpieza de válvulas y rejuveneció el motor. Y lo acabo de usar en un Subaru 2.0 no turbo con 23 mil kilómetros en el odómetro, y aun con tan pocos kilómetros el resultado de la limpieza de válvulas fue notable. Pienso seguirlo usando cada 20 o 25 mil kilómetros. Si no lo encuentras busca otro producto similar que contenga PEA (Polieteramina) y úsalo de similar manera

Works great to clean carbon from valves! Expect a lot of smoke for awhile after applying solvent! Engine runs better! Less hesitation and better gas mileage!

المنتج مفيد لتنظيف الصمامات ( البلوف ) وايضا تنظيف المحركات بنظام gdi والمنتج يعتبر اقوى ب 150 مرة من منظفات الوقود العادية ، انصح باستخدامه

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Tried it this morning and to be honest it was kinda scary to use. As you know any foreign chemical inside the cylinder can and will break your engine. My Kia Rondo was suffering from carbon buildup and I was losing a lot of mileage and power during acceleration. Emptied a whole can of it and waited for 1 hour to heatsoak the carbon. So me and the wifey drove around the block then there it was the big puff of white smoke came out of the tailpipe. I thought well its ok as what the reviewers say but the valve knock and the loss of power scared the heck out of me. I actually smokescreened an entire block around our area and people were looking at me saying that my engine is toast. I was quiet and trying to gather my thoughts on what happened as I looked on the dash and the it threw a CEL which I told my wife about it. we were silent and thinking. Me about the car whereas my wife calculating how much we will spend on a whole engine! XD. I pulled over and revved the engine just to remove the smoke and after that I did some spirited driving in one of our main roads and there was a change in acceleration and the car had power on all gears now. It even did a 5 gear uphill which was impossible to do when you have carbon build up. Gas mileage was unbelievable. I got another liter off my range. it used to be 10l/100km now it became 9km/100km city driving. Also about the CEL it went gone after 50 to 80 km of driving. Final Verdict. 10 out of 10 for how the cleaner worked but if you are scared to do it, I suggest ask a professional mechanic to help you. I still have 1 can left and I will use it after a few years but will take apart the plenum chamber to do a thorough clean. I will not spray it again while the engine is running.