Genie 36179R.S ガレージドアオープナー トロリーアセンブリ 純正オリジナル機器メーカー (OEM) パーツ

同様の部品は数多くありますが、ギアラックを支えるブラケットの剛性は他のモノよりも高いようです。

I didn't think this individual part would be available for Genie screw drives. Lo and behold it is. It seems to be of the same quality as the original. Just a tip, maybe your last one stripped because of lack of lubrication. I hadn't lubricated mine in years. The door sounded like a banshee when opening. Clean the threaded rod thoroughly when you put the new part on and apply high-quality white lithium grease in a strip from limit switch to limit switch on the screw rod. After I opened and closed it twice post-maintenance, the door sounded so quiet I couldn't believe it. I'm in Canada so I bought the extreme temperature lithium grease in a tube from Canadian Tire for about 12 bucks. Last part lasted 20 yrs with little lube. This one will be treated better.

Just installed, hope it lasts Identical to the ?15yo original (on the left), unlike other reviews I opted not to immediately swap parts. Both old/new seemed to have the same thickness so purchased a small can of grease and installed the new one 3d ago. Garage door has gone up and down several times without a hitch Didn’t come with any instructions but looking at the old one, it was intuitive. Didn’t come w grease, but looking at the old one, it was intuitive. Didn’t watch any YouTube videos first-wish I had of-not because of THIS piece, but the videos might’ve told me what was wrong with the door in the first place. I automatically assumed the motor was dying and couldn’t pull up, not knowing that there are “teeth involved”. Cost me $125 for the door doll to come out just to tell me what was wrong (not fix, just to tell me). I then bought this inexpensive part, and 20min later all was well. Lesson learned. YouTube has a plethora of advice to consider before going full “expert” and spending a lot of dough Note: one thing the door guy DID do, as he too was trouble shooting, was shore up the rail. It was sagging an inch or two, so he screwed it to a cross beam: this relives some of the stress on this roller Some buyers suggest keeping a spare. But I think this “shoring” will help tremendously Will update in a few months if it fails

My Genie garage door opener went FUBAR a few weeks ago, and it became clear that I needed to replace the trolley, as well as the shaft coupler and the limit switches for both up and down extremes of the door. The original equipment trolley part is a few dollars more expensive that the generic parts, but I would recommend the OEM part because it has metallic teeth engaging the door screw, rather than plastic teeth in the generic parts. It is very easy to replace by dropping the door to the closed position and unfastening the door end of the screw rail, which is a single nut. Disconnecting the upper end of the door linkage from the trolley, releasing the old trolley, and moving the loose end of the rail off to the side a bit allows you to slide the old trolly off the end of the rail and replace with the new trolly (with teeth in the "disengaged" position). Reconnecting the loose end of the rail, re-attaching the upper end of the door linkage, and re-engaging the new trolley, and you are done! If you have to replace the trolley, I would recommend also checking the limit switches for both maximum UP and maximinum DOWN, because you may find that it was failure of the limit switch(es) that precipitated the trolley failure. It would also be useful to check the shaft coupler, but that is most easily done by dropping the power head and rail to the garage floor. You probably do not need to do this, unless after replacing the trolley and checking the limit switches, you find that the door either does not move well or sounds pretty rough. Once the power head and rail are on the floor, it is very easy to replace the coupler.

This works great just turned out it was not the problem.

Worked perfectly! Thank you!