Gizmo DorksPEI Sheet 3D Printer Build Surface 220mm x 220mm (8.6" x 8.6") with Laminated 3M 468MP Adhesive, Made in The USA

The media could not be loaded. Works better than anything I’ve ever tried before and creates incredible adhesion and a glassy smooth bottom on every print .I haven’t removed it yet so I gave it 3 stars for “easy to remove “. It probably just takes a little time to slowly peel it off .It’s very easy to install if you take your time.Just for reference I’ve tried :-glue sticks (total mess and glue build up and doesn’t really work if you want to make accurate prints.-just using my heated glass bed which is great when the filament sticks but big prints get warped after several hours of printing and bottom of prints are rough with lines.-Duramic 3D grip sticker that came with the filament I bought from them . This sticker worked very well even though it left a little bit of a rough finish on the bottom of the prints .Until the adhesive slowly bubbled loose over time and I couldn’t figure out why my prints were hitting the hot end and getting dragged around , I though my glass was warped , but when I pulled the sticker off I could see where the adhesive was still active and where it wasn’t . This was my favorite option until I got the gizmo dorks PEI , now I’m never going to use anything else.It’s time to get professional baby !! Lol

I bought this to replace the stock surface on my little Monoprice IIIP Mini v1. After removing the old surface I cut this down a little on one side to fit my bed. I applied it by peeling back the adhesive cover liner a about an inch and a half and lined up the PEI sheet at one end of the bed and began applying pressure evenly across the sheet as I slowly continued to peel the adhesive cover back from underneath it. This allowed me to work it down from one end across the bed slowly to ensure that I did not get and bubbles. It sticks to my unheated aluminum bed plate really, really well. I hope this lasts for awhile because I'm not looking forward to trying to remove it but that's ok. I do not want this thing pulling up when I have a print that is stuck down hard. For my first few prints I got away with nothing but a clean PEI surface. Just an alcohol cleaning before the first layer went down. It worked very well. Then I had to use a little bit of glue stick to keep my prints adhering well and that is expected since my bed does NOT heat up. I have only printed PLA so I can't comment on other materials but this sheet is a great surface. I have only had a couple of prints peel up and they were very large, thick flat surfaces that seem to shrink and lift in the corners consistently. Now when I print those types of objects I know to put down blue tape and hairspray and that seems like it will hold down anything. My difficult adhesion issues are related to my printer and its part cooling capabilities, not this PEI sheet. I'm happy with my purchase and I will buy this from this seller again with no hesitation.

I, too, was super careful with my first PEI sheet. No oils or fingerprints, IPA only, no spatula, etc. PLA was good. ABS wasn't great. PETg was better with magigoo. The only real advantage I saw was that it was indeed easier to remove once it cooled. It wasn't until it was damaged after a 100 hours of use that I was reading about how to restore PEI's grip and ran across SANDING! 400 grit to 220 grit. I did this and, whoa!, everything sticks like crazy now! Especially ABS (once you get the build chamber to around 100F or higher) and it never warps, as you can see in the attached picture of two yellow PCIe brackets that was printed in ABS - no raft, no brim. My only problem is ABS sticks too well, with perfect 1st layer heights. I found that once the build plate cools to around 50C, if you place alcohol all around the ABS print and let it soak in for about 5 to 15 minutes, most of the corners will let go from the seeping. I haven't even attempted PETg yet as it sticks too hard with ABS and PLA already.

I've been printing mostly with PETG and bed heated to 110C directly on glass. When my bed is level, it works great. The print sticks during printing. After the bed cools, it pops right off. If my bed is not perfectly level, I get some curling at the edges.With ABS, even 110C doesn't give me great adhesion so I go up to 110C and perhaps tape edges down during print.With this, I've so far only tried PETG but definitely adhesion is higher and so far no pulling up at the edges. I still print at 110C and its definitely harder to get the prints off but I consider this an effective tool in the arsenal for improving adhesion - especially for big prints where it really matters.Also printed with TPU for what its worth and adhesion was also great.I don't yet have a handle on durability.

Only two 8-hour prints on it but so far, I'm impressed. I print nGen (PETG) exclusively and have been using hair spray on glass for ages. Worked well enough but I still had the occasional tall part pop off during a print. Saw the good reviews on this PEI sheet and figured I'd give it a shot.Installation is stupid-easy. Clean your glass, slap this on and trim the excess with a utility knife, if needed. Note there's also a protective plastic cover on the print surface - the instructions don't point that out. I didn't have any issues with trapped air bubbles. The sheet itself is rigid, but flexible enough to "roll" onto the glass without entrapping air. The 3M adhesive is crazy strong. Got my doubts it'd ever come off so when replacement time eventually comes, it'll probably involve new glass.PETG sticks EXTREMELY well to the heated PEI bed. In fact, I doubt there's any way to remove a part without destroying it or the PEI sheet while hot. Once the bed cools however, parts pop off just as easily as they did with my old hairspray on glass technique. After two prints I cannot see any detectable change in the PEI surface. Time will tell how well it holds up. I'll update accordingly here.