WirthCo 20090 Battery Doctor 75 Amp/100 Amp Battery Isolator

Hasta el momento a funcionado bien, es de buena calidad.

this is a new method to maintain 2 batteries in a boat or RV, but keeping them isolated. It works well, requiring very little in the way of installation. (couple screws, couple wires, etc).If you are old school and know about the larger diode charging blocks (typically 2" x2" x 5" with large cooling fins) this is will do a similar function, but in a different way.This has a circuit to monitor the voltage, and when the main battery is charged enough, it will open up the charging to the aux battery (think boat starting and trolling motor). so as the first one charges up, the second will then begin charging.I contacted to the company to get their insight if would work correctly with an "A/B/Both" battery switch and they assured me that it would work (always turning on the battery to A, unless you have an issue, then you can use B or Both without worrying about the battery doctor having problems.the product does pull about 30mA when the boat is not running, and the way I have wired it, this happens even if my A/B switch is off. 30 mA will take a long time to drain a 100Amp Hour battery, but it is something to know for long term storage. I also added a trickle charger at the same time and this will actually allow the trickle charger to charge the main battery first, and then open up to charge my aux battery second.never wanting to be caught without a battery on the lake, this is an important component for my boat.

Update 2023: when my FLA bank died I replaced it with 150Ah of LiFePO4. I assumed I'd need a DC-DC. But I fired it up with the VSR in place and it works fine. Over the last ~20 runs, the average state of charge before start was 72%, bank voltage 13.20v. Charge acceptance after start was 0.183C (27.39A). See note below about using a switch to deactivate the VSR when desired.------I've had the isolator installed for [three years] and it has worked great, no problems.I would like to bring up a few points:* folks often say that this voltage-sensing relay connects the Aux battery when the starter battery is "fully charged"; that's not really what happens. Per the manual and my observation it makes the connection when the starter battery is >= 13.4v. Lead-acid chemistry batteries take hours to get "fully charged" (100% state of charge). In practice this means you'll start the vehicle and a few seconds later the relay will 'click' and you are connected. I don't know but I suspect this stepping-up in load is easier on the alternator.* if you are charging the aux battery[s] from another source while the batteries are connected (engine running, or recently turned off) any 13.4v+ charging voltage will be seen on the starter side and the relay will not disconnect. This may or may not be what you want. See below.* you can put a switch on the slim ground wire to deactivate the isolator. This might be useful if you want to do something like equalize the house batteries without feeding that voltage back to the vehicle. [I installed a High Voltage Disconnect (a few bucks here on Amazon) to disconnect the Doctor when solar raises the house side above 14.1v.][I read a report about one of the connectors getting overheated - I suspect that person had a loose connection that overheated and melted the plastic. Remember to check your connections when you maintain the battery bank!]

I like the product with some instillation issues. I have two of these units in my boat. One for auxiliary, one for trolling motor battery's. Both battery's are charged from the engines alternator. This setup had worked for several years till this spring, one failed do to water penetration. Although the installation is simple the instructions need to include critical assembly of wiring of battery cables. Some of this information was told to me from Tim from there tech support team witch I found better then most support you get now days. If you notice the plastic around the base of the post crack or you can see the o rings that are supposed to seal the post, you can assume the unit is no longer water resistant. I reinstalled my units in a industrial waterproof box (x stream overkill). A Tupperware box would probably work.1. The flat washers (included) needs to be put on post terminals first. Under the battery cables.2. The size of the terminal hole on your battery cables must be as close fit as possible to the post. If it is to large (as in my case) the flat washer will bend causing the plastic case to fracture around the post, allowing moisture to penetrate the otherwise well made enclosure.3. Do not over tighten post nuts. As you tighten the nuts observe the lock washer (included), once it is fully compressed cation must be taken to not go much further.

I bought this product for our RZR1000 when we installed the winch, because I didn't want to run out of juice when we needed it most!I left Polaris' power users on the Polaris battery and ALL aftermarket draws on our 750CCA battery. All light bars, whips, cameras, etc. that weren't factory.Basically I wanted two separate systems: factory and aftermarket. The only two places the systems met were at the alternator for +12V and the chassis ground.I wired the Battery Doctor per the manufactures instructions.I also gave it LOTS of breathing room so it wouldn't over heat, and LOTS of drainage room so it wouldn't sit in water if we forded a stream or ran in the rain and got moisture around it.Somehow it drained BOTH batteries within a month of the instalation (possibly the red LED indicator?!?), which was odd, as the factory battery had NEVER failed me before and the larger battery was new & FULLY charged!Okay, so jump start the RZR to start the weekend; disappointing, but whatever, there to have fun...It rained while we were there, but we didn't drive thru any water, there was only 100% humidity in the air! Within 2 days of getting back home, the battery doctor itself was dead!! It would not jump start the RZR from the AUX battery (second reason to have the Dr installed, self jumping if tshtf), NO red power LED, NO charging LED, NO over ride LED when the button was pushed; NOTHING!!! 🤯🤬😡😠 AND both batteries were dead again, even after riding/ charging for the entire weekend!Two weeks worth of fitting it into place, running #2 wires to make sure there was power where needed, 3x the cost of the Dr itself just to get all the accessory parts to install everything correctly and it's DEAD in 6 weeks?!?I would have been money ahead to have bought a 100A diode and a 100A terminal block with a 100A relay to bypass the diode to self jump!As it is, I now have a Batery Tender plugged in 24/7 when in storage which I never needed before, and a VERY EXPENSIVE (but fancy looking) terminal block next to my batteries! 😔 💸💸💸DO NOT BELIEVE that this unit is water proof, water resistant or water ANYTHING!If it's not in a vacuum, it WILL fail you!It's more like the Wicked Witch of The West than a doctor: it dies whenever there's water near it!!!