Permatex 80062 High Tack Gasket Sealant, 4 oz., Black

Got this to seal on new engine gaskets for our boat. It was easy to apply and worked great to seal on the gasket

Used in putting back together a Honda mower carb. I don't think you need a sealer necessarily but can't hold the parts together while putting it back together without it. Mower works again.

My axle seals in my 1993 F-150 failed and leaked over my brakes, so a repair was needed. That meant draining the rear differential in order to gain access to the axle. There are many schools of thought regarding how best to re-attach the cover to the differential once the work is done. Options include: RTV only, gasket only, gasket with RTV and gasket with this high tack sealant. It seems the preference has moved to using RTV only especially in newer vehicles. That may be related to manufacturing processes and the simplicity of having an automated tool dispense the RTV as the axle moves down the line. Keep in mind that the differential is likely facing upwards during the manufacturing process to facilitate the RTV application. In the real, shade tree mechanic world, this rarely happens. The surface is vertical and presents minimal challenges, but one can still mess it up if not careful. I’ve used RTV only in my 2014 F-150 and have evidence of minor seepage. That’s on me, as it was the first time that I ever used RTV only, as that was the OEM process. In contrast, my 1993 had a gasket and likely an adhesive. It was a bear to clean, as I had to scrape its remnants from both surfaces. I replaced the fluid in 2018 and used a gasket and RTV. Reading further into the best practices, some folks commented that a gasket and RTV should never be used together. I wish I read that earlier, as there was evidence of minor seepage beyond the gasket. I then took a deep dive into the F-150 forums and found someone who had suggested using a gasket with Permatex High Tack Gasket Sealant. He noted the sealant doesn’t harden or cure, so re-servicing is slightly easier. I opted to give this a try, and I’m glad I did. I made sure both surfaces were free of gasket, grease, dirt and RTV. A light sanding on each surface was followed by a wipe with brake cleaner. Make sure the sump in the bottom of the differential is empty, or at least not near the edge, as it may wick over and drip on the bottom surface and render your seal useless. As I noted above, there are multiple suggestions as how to apply this to the surfaces and gasket. Here’s what I did. I laid the cover flat and applied the sealant to the sealing surface. The sealant has a brush. I ensured there was a good coating especially where the gasket would be in contact with the cover. I then applied the gasket to the cover. The sealant holds the gasket in place, so make sure you align the holes. This sealant is unique in that it gets stringy when exposed to air. I found it best to work quickly and not to go over areas multiple times to avoid clumps. I then applied the sealant to the other side of the gasket, that is the side that’s against the differential surface. It was just easier for me this way, as I was working on the ground. You can likely add it to the differential if you’re working with a lift. Excess towards the inside of the cover, and therefore differential, can be wiped after the gasket is laid on the cover. I carefully aligned the cover, added 1-2 bolts to hold it in place and then torqued all 10 bolts to 30 ft lbs. I don’t think there is any cure time with this product, but seeing as I had other things to do, I left the differential empty until it was my last task. That was about 1-2 hours later. There are no leaks, so this will be my preferred method going forward with this truck. Good stuff.

Great gasket sealant, this is what people used before silicone / RTV.

This stuff has been around for years, and I have only used it a couple of times. It's great for sticking things together for ease of assembly,but it's too thick and unmanageable right out of the can. I take a small metal tin that airgun pellets come in, and add a solvent like MEK and add this stuff using an acid brush to thin it out and apply an even thin coat to the surfaces before assembly. This has worked well...let it dry out a little first. I made the mistake of trying to use it right from the can...it's too thick, and causes the gasket to squish out when torqued. Hope this helps someone.

I love this gasket adhesive! It makes repairs easy and its also a money saver too. I've been using it for years now on chainsaw repairs and it's definitely a lifesaver. My only issue with it is that the can tends to allow the gasket adhesive to dry out which makes it especially troublesome when installing a chainsaw head gasket that keeps moving around and falling off. I also love using it on OHV riding lawnmowers which allows me to not have to replace the valve cover gasket every time I check or re-lash the intake/exhaust valves. If you carefully remove the valve cover, the gasket will stay stuck to it for quite a long time before it starts to break into little pieces due to the heat. Every small-engine mechanic should have this product in their tool chest for sure!

Good stuff

Use it to seal the top and bottom of gaskets where needed. Made in U.S.A.

I love this stuff, personally I wouldn’t ever use any gasket sealer other than this stuff. It’s very messy and can be a little difficult to apply, but it has never failed me. wear gloves it’s possibly the stickiest substance known to man.

Good quality product

Excellent stuff,replaced sump gasket and was invaluable for in holding it in place on the block.

Works great, the brush built in the lid is awesome

Use to fix my oil pump on my motorcycle it’s works