VEVOR Dent Pull Lever Bar, 6 Claw Hook Dent Puller, Single Leg Lifter Portable Dent Pull Bar Aluminum Alloy for Car Dent Repairing

RE: "VEVOR Dent Pull Lever Bar, 6 Claw Hook Dent Puller, Single Leg Lifter". This product sells within 10% of the listed price(s) on all websites I found it for sale on (Amz, the 'Bay, Vevor's own website). Prices flucuate daily on each site, so YMMV. This tool can be used one of three ways: #1) use a series of traditional welded metal pull tabs / loops (using a specialized spot welder to apply these to bare, sanded metal) and this tool to pull on the welded loops. #2) use hot glued-on "PDR" (Paintless Dent Repair) "pull tabs" that have a wide plastic pull loop integrated into their top facing side, usually in a connected series of 2-6+ tab "strips", insert the metal rod horizontally through the row of pull tab "loops" (the metal rods are typically included with these style pull tabs when sold), then grab the rod with this tool's hook claws, and pull. #3) the threaded rod that connects the top round swivel point and the claw is M10 x 1.50 thread pitch. Use the existing rod, or purchase a longer, similarly threaded rod, and replace the claw hooks assembly with a small, solid, round pull-tab puller extension end piece, such as ASIN B0DNW8J9QW, B074Z44RND, etc, in order to pull the hot glued-on round or long "crease" pull tabs. These pull tab adapters can be had in M10, M12, M14 and even M16 threads; just verify the actual "thread pitch" number before ordering to ensure it will either match the thread diameter and "thread pitch" of your threaded rod mounting point (the OEM rod that came with your tool), or alternately the replacement rod you might have to purchase and switch to if the parts don't all match up and you have to patch a setup together from scratch). This tool sells for a fraction of the big OEM versions, although kits available from the OEM's are often more versatile (more attachment options, etc).

220v version. Great purchase. Used it with no issues on 80s Chevy. Does what it should. Was worried with mixed reviews but proof is in the pics. Wish I bought this sooner!

Took some time to figure it out but worked well

I purchased this after lots of internal debate and trying other types of stud welding options. To repair my daughter's car, I needed something a bit more robust than the pin type stud welder as I knew it would take a bunch of pulling to repair. Good features, duty cycle was sufficient in even my hot garage. Ranged across the high to low side of power with most settings and tools used on a late model car to straighten a door, rocker panel and rear quarter. I ordered additional consumables, stored in the original box along with a magnetic ground adapter before I used it. The machine sets up quickly, tacks hard or soft depending upon settings you are using, note I did burn through in some spots which I tacked closed with a mig machine. Without this tool, I would have needed at least a partial quarter panel and a door. I would buy again. Especially if the cables were longer! Luckily I have a receptacle close by and an extension cord for the welder. The length of the cables creates some challenges using the machine around a car. Definitely could be better there.

I have the 90E 220v version in the US plugged into a 50 amp outlet. Never used one before , but pulled out a small dent on a Transit van with no easy access to back side. This is an awesome tool that allows gentle and small movements of the area. Only other tool used was a small hammer. I picked the 220v version because I read some people were not happy with welding power or erratic spot adhesion. Running on a good circuit at 220 may possibly mitigate any performance issues since there should be no significant voltage drop to the unit. Cost was less than paint supplies and consumables to do repair.