BNTECHGO 20 Gauge Silicone Wire Black 100ft Stranded Tinned Copper Wire | Flexible 20 AWG Stranded Wire Silicone Rubber Insulation For RC Models, Drone, Robot, Battery, EV Charger, 3D Printer, DIY

This is the best wire I've ever used, hands down. To put this in perspective, I go through probably 100 ft. of automotive primary wire in any given week. I do a LOT of small electrical jobs for friends and family, everything from fixing headlights and wiring harnesses, to adding completely new circuits like heated seats or sound systems. I have 0 sound degradation when I use them for speaker wire. If you use it for that, something I've learned by a lot of real world trial and error, that may help someone else out there, is to run the speaker wires down the opposite side of the car you run the power wires; I don't know why it helps, someone who's smarter than I could tell you..maybe it helps cut out interference or something, but tbh I have no idea at all and am not educated enough on that to tell you the why, I just know that it really works. It's almost like some kind of weird, ancient, wiring feng-shui that yields better performance based on geographical location. Supernatural, ancient, far-east, geo-kinestethic techniques and practices aside, it really just helps get the desired result of clear, non-fuzzy sound... ...Ok! anyways, the crazy flexibility and high-strand count of the conductor inside the insulation makes it stupid dumb easy to push em through tight fitting holes without the need to alter the existing structure of something. They're surprisingly elastic, as well, which helps not tear off end bits of wire if you're like me and use an automatic wire stripper... and insist on having the tension permanently set to "kill" 😃. The elasticity of the insulation, which is made of/made with with silicone, also means if it gets caught while you run it, you step on it or slam it in something while pulling the wire, that won't (in my experience) compromise the conductor inside. I know that I SHOULD just replace that section of wire, even if it doesn't appear to be damaged, which I do when time and materials allow... and I know I SHOULD stop eating so much red meat, I know I SHOULD stop smoking, I know I SHOULD finally fix that back door screen that bangs every time the wind blows any faster than is required to move a stupid American Beauty grocery bag... my point is that I SHOULD do a lot of things, but don't always get to. in the real world sometimes you just aren't able to do things by the book, for whatever reason, and this wire hasn't let me down when those situations arise. I'll leave you with my answer to the question "is this **** good enough to be the only wire ill use for automotive and small electronic applications moving forward?"... ..."bet". PROS: FLEXIBLE, RELIABLE, GREAT AND LONG-LASTING PERFORMANCE, SOLID PRICE RANGE; GREAT BANG FOR YOUR BUCK. CONS: NONE I'VE FOUND. buy it. you're welcome.

This wire is great if you're a amateur radio operator that's looking for wire to use for ground plane radials. I purchased this to use for the radials of my vertical antenna. Silicone coated wire like this, is much better to use than common plastic coated wire because it lays out much easier and is flexible. I've used plastic coated wire for radials in the past, and they're difficult to untangle, and straighten out. Silicone wire doesn't have that problem. I still use plastic coated wire for vertical elements, but for ground radials, silicone coated wire is easier to use.

This wire is super flexible and easy to work with. I used it for ground radials for my portable HF antenna (ham radio). Very pleased with the result. I got the yellow for visibility. Comes in other colors as well.

This is a great wire to use for radials for a vertical amateur radio antenna. I use my cut wires when taking my gear to a park. It is nice to have this wire as it is easy to undo if it gets tangled.

Outstanding transaction and product!

good product for good value

I purchased 20 ga 100 ft rolls of red white and black wire . The wire is very flexable and the tinned copper strands are very fine. I used the wire to setup and calibrate a temporary temperature recorder using 8 three wire RTD inputs. There were 8 three wire RTD inputs to the recorder. I used 24, 8 ft length of wires of differning colors: 8 white, 8 red, 8 black. It was very easy to strip off the wiring insulation on both ends of each wire. I tinned each end of the wire very easily. On one end of each wire I crimped spade lugs to be connected to the recorder input. On the other end I crimped size 16 female Amphinol pins for a military grade circular connector that is connected to my calibration device. This wiring was used for calibration and monitoring purposes only. Thes wire is not qualified to be used for high safety related applications in the industry that I wok. For 99% of applications, it is the most easily to use wiring for hobby, or other non-critical application that I have found.

I bought three different gauges (18, 20, & 22) to use for making custom computer power wires, and it worked great. This is a good price for tinned copper wire of this length and with a silicone jacket, and IIRC there weren't even many options when I was looking. The silicone really makes it extremely flexible, which I learned after I bought it that is typically NOT what you want when doing custom cabling, as wires need to be stiff to hold their positions, but it's exactly what I needed for the project. The other caveats with silicone insulation for such a project are that it's harder to push terminals into connectors, since the flexibility causes the wire to bend, and you can't melt sleeving or heatshrink to it like you can with normal insulation, but obviously this isn't an issue with the wire, just something to keep in mind if you're looking to use it for that. It wasn't a problem for me, as ideally you should melt/shrink it to the terminal, which is what I did. Also, for anyone looking to use it for what I did, I got the smaller gauges (higher numbers) because I was daisy-chaining SATA power connectors together, meaning I had to crimp two wires to each terminal, and they're tiny. The 18 AWG wire was still plenty small for that, and of course allows for more current, which I needed, so I didn't need the smaller wires. Still, it's nice to have them, and if I decide to make a fan extension I'll use one of them for that.

nice cute little rolls. I love how flexible the wire is too.

極細錫メッキ銅撚線とシリコン被覆でキンクし難く取り回しが楽なのが良い。

A great wire, at a great price, that did the job for me. I would buy it again for sure.

I used the BNTECHGO 20-gauge silicone-insulated wire for several of my homemade antennas — including end-fed half-wave antennas, random wire links, and feed leads — and it’s been an excellent choice. The silicone insulation is soft and extremely flexible, which makes handling and routing the wire around terminals, feedpoints, and pulleys a breeze. I’ve wound coils, formed bends, and made tidy hang points without the wire kinking or taking a “set.” It also feels tough enough to handle outdoor conditions when used with proper strain relief. Electrically, the 20 AWG silicone wire works well across HF and even into higher bands for feedlines and counterpoise runs where appropriate. It solders easily and holds a secure connection without needing excessive heat. For antennas where weight and flexibility matter — like portable end-fed antennas or temporary field setups — this wire is ideal. Pros: ✅ Very flexible and easy to work with ✅ Silicone insulation stands up well to movement and bending ✅ Great for antenna builds, jumpers, and custom leads ✅ Easy to strip and solder ✅ Good value on the spool for multiple projects Cons: ⚠️ 20 AWG is thin, so it’s best suited for antennas and jumpers — not high-current feedlines for power applications Overall, the BNTECHGO 20-gauge silicone wire has become my go-to for building and tuning end-fed half-wave antennas and other lightweight wire antenna projects. Highly recommended for ham builders and antenna hobbyists.

Used on model trains.