GamaTech 220V 230PSI Pressure Switch for Water Pump and Air Pump, Digital Adjustable Pressure Controller, 1/2" Male Npt

Easy to install and works fine. Much better than the mechanical switches I have used.

This switch replaces the disliked double spring controller used in millions of wells, and pressure regulators. It's absolutely great, easy to program, and can set the start (low) and stop (high) pressures to what you want.The single deficiency is that it switches one side of the 240 power, leaving the other side hot. We corrected this by adding a Potter & Brumfield Relay DPST, 30A Relay 220/240VAC with same voltage coil. The advantage is both power lines are on or off, and the controller load is the small current required to activate the relay, extending the life cycle of the controller. Power is managed by the relay, not the controller.

I originally wrote a scathing one-star review, starting with, "I'm hoping to edit this review and add a few stars, because the concept is great: Emerge from the Dark Ages of mechanical (read: sticking) points and inaccurate pressure settings into the modern age of electronics and sensors (nothing can go wrong go wrong go wrong)."I mean, I installed this thing according to the laughably translated instructions, and voila! It worked—for maybe half a day. Then I got the dreaded E—F message which indicates that the pump is receiving no water from any or all of three cisterns. With a total capacity of 30,000 gallons of water, I somehow doubt that they all ran dry in half a day.So I was resigned to re-connecting the Square D switch from the Industrial Revolution that required a visit to the pump room to whack it when it reached the cut-off pressure—or buying a new one, which would have been total capitulation to the Luddites. But when I opened the junction box where the colorful matrix of wires and their little wire-nut hats reside, I saw that the mislead E–F message might just mean a broken circuit, for one of the load feeder wires had somehow freed itself from its wire-nut shackles; could it be that the problem was NOT the switch, by my own ineptitude at wire-nut installation? (Hey, I'm blaming the arthritis.)Spoiler alert. Yes—yes, it was. With the load feeds lengthened by about an inch (how do you make maires longer? It's a secret), I was able to re-twist the connections. Then I crossed my (arthritic) fingers and threw the 50-amp double breaker.And the pump began merrily whirring its way up from a pressure of zero toward the max I had originally set: 65 psi. As the system approached that number, of course, it took longer and longer to gain each pound... so I confirmed that it could reach a firm 64 psi, and then lowered the max to 63. I can live with that.I'd give it a fifth star except for the incredibly awful documentation on this thing. With a little added research, you can probably figure everything out, but I have better things to do than spend my life wandering the Interwebs looking for reliable instruction manuals.

I works very well. Much better than fighting the old style (spring) pressure switches. I installed a contactor in a small j-box to turn my pump on/off.The unit requires 220VAC to operate (2 legs of 120VAC), but only one leg is broken by the switch on the pump output. I think it is the brown wire, which you'll use to pull in the contactor coil (the blue wire stays hot, so if you use it your pump won't cycle).

Read through the instruction sheet. There was NO color codes for the hot and ground wires. This is a 220v switch so there are two hot wires and a ground. Nothing in the instructions told what color wire was hot and ground. Also if you don't have a starter switch on your pump these wires are only 18 guage braided copper. 220v requires a minimum of 12 guage solid copper.

I was looking for an alternative to the antique mechanical switches. They don’t last and can’t be adjusted that well. Even the best mechanical switches have a wide differential. Even at the minimum differential the cut in pressure gets too low. This switch seems very accurate. It can be set any way the user wants. The only difficulty is the unconventional mounting. You absolutely need a junction box to connect the wiring. I also used a single gang utility box to mount it. I ran 1/4 inch ice maker line to the tank. My only complaint is the leads should be longer. Other than that it’s a nicely made apparently quality item. Time will tell how durable it is.

The unit is exactly what I needed, an adjustable or programmable hysteresis! It is for a boost pump on an RO system that boosts well pressure to another pressure tank at 100 psi. The unit that failed froze the relay in the on position definitely a problem for most installations. Since this is the only solution for my specific needs I am trying a second one, if the second one fails or not I will update this review to reflect my final satisfaction assessment.

AWESOME!