TARIO 39 Inch Fretless Classical Guitar Full Size Acoustic Guitar Spruce top Ovangkol back and sides Okoume neck laurel fingerboard

Great little Guitar for getting started on the fretless style of Guitar playing. Comes with Salvarez Strings but I recommend using your favorite for this little darling.Try not to over tune the guitar, it is a Classical after all. I don't believe there is a truss rod so do not put acoustic strings on it, there are videos to prove that point... Luthiers say that the max tension force that applicable to most Classical Guitar bodies is around 72 kg of tension force which is equivalent to light gauged electric guitar strings or nylon based guitar strings. Delicate boy this one.Also I would compile a datasheet for the distances for the frets because that's where the note should sound the best using 12-tET: basically you take your favorite measurement tool in the standard it uses (I used 1/16 of an inch for accuracy but you may use millimeters if you wish) and you measure the playable space from top nut to bridge bone (I measured from where the edge of the string past to the inside of the neck from each point disregarding the minute difference in point of contact for the nut and bridge for there is a small fudge factor you can get a way with when playing) and then you successive divide the comma (playable space and then after each division of the leftover playable space) by the 12th root of 2 (which is for all intensive purposes 1.05946309436 you could use google calculator to check this) and that number measured in your favorite minute distance mete from bridge upward is the position of the fret.So for example if you had a 24 inch playroom from bridge to nut then that is then converted to 16ths by multiplying 24 * 16 and add the leftover 16ths, in this example it would be 384 16ths inches. So you divide that by the 12th root of 2 which is 1.05946309436 and voila you have the first fret distance in 16ths of an inch and to get the inches you divide that number by 16 and after you note that inch unit, you minus that unit of distance and take the decimal portion and multiply by 16 again to get the remainder of sixteenths of inches for accuracy.Again, for accuracy the higher number of decimal values in 1.05946309436 you use the greater the accuracy of the point of the fret for the note. For this example the first fret would be 384 sixteenths of inches divided by 1.05946309436 which yields approximately 362.44776 which is 22 inches and 10 sixteenths of an inch; to get the next fret you take that total sixteenths value and divide again by 1.05946309436 which yields 342.10516 sixteenths or 21 inches and 6/16 of an inch.This is laborious and tiresome so my advice is to use your favorite datasheet program like Excel, Libre Office Calc, or Google's version to program the cells to do the math accurately then click and drag to fill the data out. You can check the data with your existing guitar first before you try it out on your fretless.I use graphite pencil to mark out the fretboard so I can see it but not make it so flagrantly obvious.You can also mark out the harmonic positions of the guitar, which for most purposes is about 13 points, but only seven of those points are needed because the other 6 are reflections about the center point. For convenience they are 1/2 of the string, 1/4 of the string, 1/8 of the string, 1/3 of the string, 1/6 of the string, 1/5 of the string and 2/5 of the string. To get these you simply take your total playspace and divide by the portion you want. For example if you wish to have the 7th natural harmonic you take 384 16ths inches (from above or put your favorite guitar play length there) and divide by 2 and then find the inches and remainder 16ths and there you mark your harmonic, another example is if you want the 13th harmonic or the top harmonic you divide by 6 and for this example let's use 384 again which would yield 64 16th inches or 4 inches from the top.This goes also for the reflected 1st harmonic found on the near the bridge which would be 4 inches from the bridge upwards or 20 inches from the top nut. You can do this for any of the divisors that I listed up there.Obviously if you induce artificial harmonics (which may work on fretless) the action distance is less so the 13 harmonic points are scaled accordingly. (Honesly I don't really see a point in use the bottom 6 harmonic points unless it's convenient because they are really close to the sound hole and they are the exact sounds in reverse order from the 7th harmonic which is midway on the playable string length).But yeah Hope this helps!Have at it!

If you’re here you are probably Oud-curious, a proto-classical player, or play jazz. This is a full sized acoustic guitar and the cheapest fretless you can find anywhere, which makes sense because this is bare-bones basic relatively unchanged for thousands of years. The finish is simple, there is no strap button to be found, the truss rod might not actually work, and you have just 3 dots to give you crude visual reference where you are on the fretboard. These give you all that the ancients ever needed and you are given the option to redevelop thousands of years of stringed instrument innovation if you so desire. The mild finish gives the instrument a beautiful resonance and punch as you carry overtones into intervals not normally present in Western scales (with exception to slide guitar and jazz). Strap button is an easy add. Truss rod? Intonation? Both irrelevant because you are not constrained to frets. If you want frets you can tie some on. The 3 dots are adequate to navigate without giving you a “cheat sheet”. Buy a small piezo pickup and as long as you run fx through headphones then there is zero feedback. This instrument is therefore excellent for experimentation, studio, and clean live playing. If you want to play live and bump up the fx then you probably need to stuff it with rags, but you don’t care because it’s so cheap. Heres the best part…… because it’s a quirky imperfect fretless you can use that as an excuse for why you didn’t nail that chord perfectly, and that lends itself to experimentation and having more fun overall.

OK, for $150 it's a nice little guitar. Well built, nice, big sound, and it comes with some nice Savarez high-tension strings. It has that matte finish that always looks to me like they forgot to put the varnish on, but even some top-brand models do that, so no big deal. The tuning machines are astonishingly nice and smooth working for a guitar in this price range.All in all, an nice way to experiment with a fretless guitar, without having to take out a second mortgage to buy one.My one gripe: There are three side position markers on then neck, and they are all in the wrong place. On a fretted guitar the markers go between the frets, because if your finger hits anywhere in that range the string contacts the fret and the note sounds in true pitch. On a -fretless- guitar, however, your fingertip essentially IS the "fret". That means the dots should be located exactly where the fret would be, and not "between" frets. If you play where the dots are on this instrument, you will be a 1/4-tone flat.What they should have done is either moved the dots up a bit to the correct positions, or left the dots off entirely -- misplaced dots are a distraction. I'll be removing the factory dots and installing my own at the correct locations.Other than that, it's a nice little guitar. If you get one, use a black Sharpie to cover up the side dots, and you'll be fine.

Great guitar for the price!! The tuning machines feel a bit flimsy, but the do the job! If you're looking for an inexpensive way to experiment with fretlessness. I've had it for a few days and it is so different!!!