Thermal Grizzly - Conductonaut - 1 Gram - Liquid Metal Compound Thermal Paste - For Maximum Thermal Conductivity while Overclocking CPU/GPU/PS4/PS5/Xbox

ive used this stuff in various forms since it first came out years ago and its definitely one of the better versions, if youre here you probably already know that you need to take care with this stuff as it is electrically conductive, that said there is little out there that works as well and a little goes a long way. application is a bit different than normal paste but easy enough if you follow the instructions and it works a treat on both pcs etc and for repairs on PS5s where the old one has eroded/died etc

Quality liquid metal, helps reduce temps considerably from 10c on just the IHS to cooler, or upto 20c with CPU delid, CPU die sanded, and IHS to cooler. Don't leave 1 star feedback after destroying your system because you were too amatuer to use this stuff, it requires a lot of care and some skill. If you are using this for a CPU delid, be sure to insulate any conducting areas that will sit under the IHS (integrated heat spreader, the big flat metal piece that is the top of your CPU where the cooler usually sits/makes contact with) or even outside it, this stuff is very runny and it may happen over time long after you have put the IHS back on. I used clear nail polish on exposed contacts, resistors or transistors etc... I avoided using any glittery types of nail polish as i'm not sure if they're conductive. Apply two layers to be safe (2nd layer after 1st layer has dried obviously). If the IHS is soldered to the CPU die (most modern CPU's have solder) be sure to use a delidding tool and carefully remove the IHS. There will be solder left on the CPU die, you will have to carefully remove it with either a blade (scraping blade is handy) or there are products you can buy that dissolve the solder safely, something like Flitz Polish can do this. If you use a blade, be sure to lightly sand down the remaining solder and use a super fine sand paper to get that mirror polished finish on the CPU die. I have sanded down 9900k CPU die's that are known to come excessively thick which also helps with reducing temperatures, but you do have to be super careful not to sand too much or you will destroy the CPU. Most IHS's and cooler contacts come copper based but if for some reason you have an aluminium based one, don't use liquid metal or it will corrode it and may fuse to the aluminium, which then you will most likely have to sand down to clean it off. Just buy a cheap copper IHS off amazon for the CPU you have, they're not expensive. Be sure to apply a very thin layer to both the CPU die and the inside of the IHS. You will need to have a rough idea where the shape of the CPU die will make contact with the inside of the IHS to avoid excess amounts dripping off the IHS to the surrounding areas of your CPU die, this is one of the reasons it is best to insulate the conductive parts of the CPU, if you don't know what parts are conductive, then just insulate everything that stands out as it can't hurt, but obviously not the back of the CPU where the contacts are for connecting to the motherboard! One method of knowing where to apply on the inside of the IHS is to apply on the die, place the IHS on the CPU and the die should touch the inside of the IHS and leave you a rough liquid metal outline to apply within. This is also good to see if the CPU die makes contact with the IHS if you sanded the die down (if it doesn't, then simply sand down the base of the IHS little by little until the die makes contact with the IHS. Finally, apply little dabs of glue on the IHS and place it in position, I usually install it into the motherboard while the glue is wet so the IHS is clamped down to the CPU by the motherboard socket, and you may want to use paste on the top of your IHS but if you do want to use liquid metal then either carefully apply it while it is installed in the motherboard or be patient and wait for the glue to dry, then take it out of the socket. You will need to apply liquid metal to the cooler too and will need a good idea where the IHS will make contact with the cooler, use the same method as before to see where it will make contact (apply to IHS, place cooler in position then take cooler out and look at where the liquid metal touched the cooler from the IHS). A little advice on applying liquid metal, it can be quite annoying trying to spread it at first as the blob of liquid tends to just follow the q-tip or seem like it gets completely absorbed by it. Keep trying to spread it with the q-tip even if nothing seems to be happening and apply some pressure so you're effectively squashing the liquid metal out of the q-tip and move the q-tip back and forth quite fast in a small area, eventually it will start spreading nicely and you will get the hang of it. I have delidded a 4790K, 2x 9700K, 9900K, 2x 9900KF, 10900K all successfully with this liquid metal and they are all running good to this day. I haven't attempted a delid with any AMD cpu's yet and wasn't bothered to do it to my 5950x as i use it for server purposes and general use, but the intel's were for gaming and overclocking so it was worth it. Watch many youtube videos to learn as much as you can before attempting this as CPU's are not cheap, but don't be scared as it is not rocket science, you just need to be clean and careful!

My HP 360 Spectre's processor (bought in 2016) had been running at around 60 degrees C on average when new. After a couple of years, the fun had to be on more and more and another year later the temperatures were between 65 to 90 degrees C so 78 degrees C on average. I have just used this product as specified (albeit I used a bit more than specified in that I covered the entire surface of the processors' top plates. I had to wipe off some excess after tightening the heat sink over the top because it squeezed some material out after the tightening of the screws, which may have not happened if I had not used more than specified. However, the result was immediate and the processors' temperatures are now running between 42-58, which is significantly lower than when it was new! Word of advice: squeeze the syringe very carefully/slowly/controlled because it is stiff and suddenly you get too much material out of it. If you do, you need to wipe all material spilt off the processor top plates as the material is liquid metal and therefore very electrically conductive.

Tried liquid metal thermal paste to provide a better thermal interface between my CPU and an Asus Ryujin 360. It worked like a charm. I highly recommend this product. IT IS CONDUCTIVE SO BE CAREFUL. Coat both the CPU IHS(CPU top cover) and the cooler coldplate. There are plenty of guides on YT to use to swat up on, before you try liquid for the first time. DO NOT: put a drop of the paste in the middle of a CPU, like normal thermal paste and compress it with cooler surface tension. Make sure to SPREAD/BUFF it on and clear any excess off. DO NOT: Use with aluminum cooler coldplates, it will dissolve them. However, most, if not all, CPU IHS are nickle plated copper, which is fine, but may stain over time(with no loss in performance.

I think this is probably one of the best compounds I have ever used for cooling. It is extremely good at conducting heat and I experience temperatures around 6 degrees C lower than I had previously after applying it. It was quick and easy to apply, really didn't take me long at all by following the instructions. I looked at other metallic compounds, and for the price of it, I thought this one was good value for money, particularly after reading some reviews on it. It's from a well-know, trusted brand, who have a good history of making high performing cooling compounds. I was surprised at the size of compound that I needed to apply. It was very little in my opinion, but even so, it was very effective. I haven't had any issues since I applied it, and it has been months now, so the longevity of it can't be disputed. I know with other non-metallics I have had to reapply them after a while because they dried out, but this till seems like it will last a while. Pros: Easy to apply, tools provided in the bag, instructions are good Cons: Clean-up is very hard, It's conductive so you need to be careful not to get it on any other parts of your PC

A good kit, easy to use.

...I have got a Noctua air cooler, and was constantly over 92 degrees C with the Noctua NT-H1 thermal paste, when running Prime95... installed the ConductoNaut, and immediately knocked 6 degrees C -- currently running at an average of 86 degrees C with the ConductoNaut liquid metal... THINGS TO BE CAREFUL OF: you need MUCH LESS of this "paste" when compared to normal ones -- a tiny amount of ConductoNaut goes a long way & is easily spreadable with the included q-tip (think more like... "painting" the CPU with it... and ditto with the cooler -- aim for a super-thin film, not a thick layer!) ...ALSO: this is conductive, so definitely do not overdue it... you do NOT want this spilling anywhere on the motherboard ... edited a couple of days, after the first application: I cannot fault its thermal capabilities -- BUT, it leaves a nasty residue behind that is extremely difficult to clean off -- and that is only after a couple of days of good use! I had to use a non-scouring pad to get 95% of the ConductoNaut off the CPU and my heatsink... and not all of it is gone (there is still an "afterimage" of the liquid metal application etched onto both surfaces -- neither of them are Aluminum, both are deemed "safe" to use with ConductoNaut...) To sum up: Brilliant thermals Horrible user experience (one needs to be super-careful when installing; de-installation is laborious, to say the least) UNKNOWN: whether it causes any lasting damage with multi-month use...

buy again

Juste be carefull when apply, with copper just put some back on it After one month After the first coat because the copper will dry out the metal

Noticed a 10c+ difference under load in a gaming laptop.

Good product

I used Thermal Grizzly's compounds on my delidded Core i7 3770K and used Conductonaut under the IHS, and then used Kryonaut between the IHS and Corsair H80i v2 cooler. It dropped the max temps by 20 degrees, just as I had read online. I thought reviewers on YouTube and whatnot were exaggerating, however having set it up myself, Thermal Grizzly's thermal compounds are legit. The 20 degree drop in temperatures allowed for further overclocking of the CPU, as well as reduced fan speeds. So less noise and more performance! I feel that the reduction in noise and heat, and increase in performance justify the price for what are premium thermal compounds. Advice for application: Pressing the plunger very slowly and firmly, dispense a bead of Conductonaut the size of half a grain of rice (3mm) onto the die. Using the included black application swabs, gently rest the tip down upon the bead and sweep across the die horizontally with small brush strokes. Spread the compound evenly such that there are no streaks (thin blank areas) but also no pools of the liquid metal. Just enough to cover the surface with no streaks remaining is perfect. Using the residual liquid metal on the swab, apply it to the inside of the IHS facing the die using a swirling motion. Just enough to prime the surface is sufficient. Use only on nickel-plated, steel, or high-quality copper. Do not use on aluminum heatsinks, as it will amalgamate with the aluminum and rot out the heatsink. Take time and care in your application and you'll have great results.

I ordered this over a year ago when I bought a used Razer Blade Pro 2018. This laptop is notorious for running at its thermal throttling point basically any time it's running anything remotely intensive. I put Kryonaut on it when I got it, but it still hit 90C on the GPU and throttled. I finally decided to take the risk and apply the liquid metal Conductonaut paste. I already knew how to disassemble the laptop so getting to the heatsink was no problem. Cleaned the old paste with acetone and a paper towel, then used the included alcohol wipes to further clean the surfaces of any remaining paste, leaving them with a nice shine. Applying this paste is very different from conventional paste. Using the micro tip, the liquid metal comes out and forms a blob. You kind of have to press the liquid metal into the surface for it to start to take hold, but once it starts the rest can be brushed into a thin, shiny metal layer that evenly covers the die. I then put more on the mating copper heatsink surface. This took more force to get it worked in, but it left a nice shiny layer where I wanted it. I gently set the heatsink back in place and tightened the screws. Booted up the laptop after reassembly and fired up Overwatch. I was surprised that the GPU didn't immediately spike to 90C, instead hovering around 80-85C. Not a great temp but if it's not throttling I'll at least see a performance boost. Then I fired up Destiny 2. I started getting massive frame drops in between smooth 120fps gameplay. Turns out that by cooling the parts well, they'll try to throttle up and draw too much power, causing the power supply to reset and the laptop to drop into battery mode. This cycle repeats and causes lag spikes. Note that this is NOT the paste's fault! It works so well that it uncovers another flaw with this laptop's design. The laptop almost seemed to rely on thermal throttling to keep power draw under the power supply's limit. Fortunately, I knew about Intel XTU and MSI Afterburner. I was able to undervolt the CPU and GPU and turn down the CPU maximum and boost power until I no longer saw the battery mode drops. The result? Laptop runs cooler, quieter, and faster than it used to. I love the design of this laptop outside of its major power and thermal flaws, so I'm happy to have both at least sort of under control now.