RonsealWet Rot Wood Hardener 500ml

Works as described.

Best preliminary rotten wood hardener. Then follow with 2 part filler . Excellent product.

I used this to treat a hole I had dug out of a rotten door. Consequently I was applying this to a vertical surface and the problem I had was that the liquid has a very low viscosity, rather like white spirit, and so a lot of the liquid was wasted running down the door before it had soaked into the wood. A slightly thickened product would have been better. Apart from this, the end result was fine as the wood hardened and I have subsequently filled it to give a good result. If I had been applying this to a horizontal surface it would have been much easier.

I am a very proud caravan owner and I like to do my own patching up whenever I can.During a recent maintenence, I noticed that on one of the corners, underneath the caravan, the wood has got a bit spongy and I was thinking about repairing it by removing part of the floor and replacing it.I came across wet rot hardener and decided to give it a go, as it would save me a lot of work.Having carefully applied it, I was relly happy to discover that the wood has hardened to the point where I was able to paint over it and no longer worry about it.Recommended.

Did exactly what it said on the tin 👍

The best money can buy.

I found it less effective than indicated in the advertised claims. May be good on horizontal surfaces but not vertical posts as it's very runny.

RONSEAL WOOD HARDENER AND FILLER review:I have used both the hardener and filler. The text of this review shows how I used both (I will post same text in each review)I have some decorative woodwork outside the front door which is rotting where water collects at the joints. After removing all the completely rotten material you are left with half rotted wood. If the wood is intact but you can easily push a fingernail into it you should consider using this stuff. It is effectively like glass fibre resin, using the rotten wood as the matrix and the hardener sets the matrix into a hard material. It takes quite a lot of this very runny liquid and you can't hope to brush it into the wood unless you have access to it from above. When I have raked out a hole in some wood I leave it to completely dry out, then I use a blunt hypodermic needle and syringe to inject/squirt the liquid into place. It takes several applications to work, leaving it to dry between applications. Once the wood is hardened, I back fill the hole with plastic wood filler, half a cm layer at a time.Eventually you will have a chunk of plasticised wood and plastic filler that is stronger than the original wood, which you can sand and paint the same as the original wood.This approach is NOT CHEAP, replacing wood would be much cheaper - but it is a a LOT CHEAPER than paying a carpenter to come and replace the wood.