Under Cabinet Mount Microwave Mounting Kit - Replacement for JXA019K WX4-A019 GE Microwave Mounting Kit - Microwave Mount Bracket for Hanging an Over-the-Range Microwave Oven

Works great but a pain to install. Does not come with a template to drill the under cabinet holes. If you are handy, this is a great way to save a few bucks over the OEM kit.

They work very well but it was not easy to install since there was no guidance

This item is useless because neither GE or this product manufacturer provides the user with a template that help you layout where holes that need to be drilled in your cabinet that line up with the 4 predrilled holes in the top of you undercounter mounted GE microwave oven.

I just installed a GE PEM31SF4SS microwave. This kit does not include a paper template. Therefore, accurate hole placement in the cabinet will be challenging, particularly given the fact that the 4 holes on top of the unit are irregularly spaced.The other shortcoming of this kit is the fact that the original hardware sold in the GE kit (costing $40) are all stainless steel, but not in this cheaper kit. I did not find it fair to pay $40for 4 screws and a paper template. So, I ended up using neither this kit, nor the GE kit. I measured the hole locations on the top of the microwave very accurately and determined the corresponding mounting hole spots in the cabinet. Then, I bought 4 stainless steel machine screws (#10-32, appropriate length based on the thickness of my cabinet bottom shelf) and four 1” stainless steel washers from the Home Depot. Total cost < $4. Now I can be confident that there won’t be any corrosion as a result of material miss-match between the machine screws and the GE microwave nuts.Read the installation instructions manual which can be found on GE’s website carefully (publication no. 4-A019), but do not get confused by the details in the manual. The bottom line is, you want to leave enough space between the back side of the microwave and the back wall to allow for proper ventilation. The fan vent is on the right-rear of the unit and requires 1-1/2” space for proper ventilation. Looking from the top, there is a part on the back side of the unit to the left of the fan vent which protrudes backward for about 1 inch. So, add an additional 1/2” on top of that. This will provide enough space for ventilation and also for the electrical cord not to get kinked on the back wall.Rear brackets: not essential. The whole purpose of the rear brackets is to make sure the above mentioned 1.5” space is preserved during installation. Otherwise, they do not serve any additional function. The rear brackets for this particular unit are 1-1/2” wide to preserve the proper distance from the back wall.Metal straps: not essential. Using the straps can make your job a bit easier by providing proper hole spacing, but if you already have that information, you don’t really need the straps. You can use 4 one-inch stainless steel washers instead.Some info on hole locations:Center-hole to center-hole distance:Right-front to right-rear: 6-1/4”Left-front to left-rear: 7-13/16”Right to left hole horizontal distance: 17-5/16”Hole distance from the sides of the unit:Right: 4-7/16”Left: 2-5/16”Hole distance from the front of the unit:Right-front: 2-3/4Left-front: 3-3/8”Hole distance from the rear of the unit:Right-rear: 2-7/8”Left-rear: 3/4”Depending on the depth of your cabinet, after allowing for proper space on the back, as described above, you can determine the location of the front holes. Then decide on the location of the real rear holes based on the above measurements.Additional tips:1. The undersurface of most cabinets is recessed, meaning that there is a front panel or front rail that extends more inferiority relative to the undersurface of the cabinet bottom shelf. If you have such a configuration, the best practice is to fill up the gap with filler wood. In my case, the gap was about 1/2”. I bought a 7/16” thick OSB panel (2’ x 4’) from the Home Depot for about $5-6 and cut to size and attached to the underside of the cabinet. I ended up using 1-3/4” long machine screws (1” total thickness of the bottom shelf + 1/16” washer thickness).2. A minimum 12” of cabinet depth is required. In my case, I had only 11-1/4” due to a nice backsplash on the back wall that I did not want to remove. So I had to drill my right front mounting hole in the front rail of the cabinet, rather than in the bottom shelf of the cabinet. It ended up becoming even a more sturdy installation since the front panel was a thicker piece of solid wood, but I had to use a longer machine screw in this hole.3. was able to install this unit, which weighs about 30 pounds, as well as a much heavier 60 pound range hood by myself. To do so, I used a pair of support jacks appropriately named “Third Hand.” These supports saved me several hours of torture and struggle. Besides, it eliminated the need to bring in an assistant into my house. Here is the link for this product on Amazon:https://www.amazon.com/FastCap-Little-Support-16-5-Inch-22-8-Inch/dp/B000067S13/ref=sr_1_4?dchild=1&keywords=third+hand+jack&qid=1598928147&sr=8-4Since the jacks are not tall enough to raise the microwave to the desired height, I placed the jacks on a wooden platform. In addition, I made the jacks more stable by attaching a piece of plywood to the top plate of the jacks and placed the microwave on top of the plywood

As others have said, this kit would have been easier to install if it included some templates, but with careful measuring it worked out fine. Seems sturdy enough and wasn't missing any parts.

Unbeatable value at one third the price of the OEM GE kit. It doesn't come with the template that the OEM kit includes, but I installed it with very careful measuring and drilling without benefit of the template. I have installed three OEM kits previously, so I was familiar with the application, but prior experience isn't necessary if you're handy and precise. The attached photo shows one of my existing installed brackets (on the right, with the screws). On the left is the non-OEM bracket that is the subject of this review. As you can see, all four holes in my many years old OEM version have counterparts in the non-OEM version. I don't know what the fifth hole in the non-OEM bracket is for, but possibly the current OEM version has the fifth hole as well. In any case, I installed my bargain brackets to use with a GE JES3072 compact microwave. The correct holes for this particular unit are the ones corresponding to the two inside holes of the OEM bracket. The larger GE undercabinet hangable microwaves (JEM31 series) would use the two outside holes. Bottom line, mission accomplished at a bargain price.Installation tip: The microwave is hung with four screws, left front, left back, right front, right back. After precisely marking the first hole to be drilled in your cabinet, use the bracket as a template to determine the second hole location on the same side. Then precisely measure the distance between left and right holes, and use the bracket to mark the hole locations on the remaining side.

hey i am an older woman sure i know my way around a tool bag this was a piece of cake to install if alone prop it up or get a set of hands to hold for about 3 mins to install..Love it and all the space i now have on the counter

No installation instructions at all.

All good . Thank you for the excellent service

Too small, could not work.