Terminal Block 8 Position, 12PCS/ 6 Set Terminal Block Strip & Ground Terminal Block, Screw Terminal Block Connector, Pluggable Distribution Terminal Blocks with Cover, Bus Bar Terminal Block 600V 15A

Apparently these types of devices and the spade lugs that fit them are sorted by wire size. These accommodate the 16 to 22 ga wires perfectly. I'm using them on a model railroad for low-voltage AC so they perform quite well. One feature I hadn't seen before is the plastic clear covers that snap on. They're perfect for putting labels on so the next person who has to perform maintenance knows what wires are being brought into that block. With the jumpers you can have many wires coming to the same block from one power source. Without the jumpers you have eight circuits individually wired. They were easy to install although attachment screws were not included. I used #5 x ⅝" and was able to locate the block, then insert a drill directly through the attachment hole and drill a pilot hole. Then I attached one screw, positioned the block, and drilled the second hole. Easy-peasy.

I bought a 10 piece set about two years ago and this set now just because I needed more. I see people typing about rattling, so long as your hand strength with a screwdriver exceeds that of a two year old, there is no rattling going on here. I run a 32,000 watt RMS audio system with 4 15's walled in a 6th order. I have these installed on the outside back of the wall. I play anywhere from 18Hz to 55Hz with ease, and I've heard plenty of other stuff back there rattle, but not these. The plastic covers, which only press in, don't even rattle. I don't know what all these others are talking about with rattling, but I am hitting well over 150 decibels in a vehicle with these things literaly screwed to the back of the enclosure, so you guys must be doing some pretty hardcore stuff with these if I can't duplicate the rattling... Anyway, outside of the "rattling scene", these are great terminals. I use them for all my smaller gauge (12 and smaller) ground tie ins, multiple relay tie ins, name it. I use fork terminal connectors (like the style of the jumper bars that come with them) and have never had a screw loosen or back out on me. These are great little terminal blocks for the money!

I build a lot of a process control devices so understandably, a lot of terminal blocks/barrier strips are involved. These blocks are manufactured from a decent quality plastic and are not brittle. A #6~#8 fastener can be used on either end to secure them - the clear protective cover snaps into the same holes that accommodate the mounting hardware. There is also enough flat area on the bottom of these that I was able to use VHB tape to mount them inside a sealed enclosure (no screw holes allowed) On the clear covers, I used printed labels to mark the covers/terminal positions without any issues. Included are a red plastic covered (positive) and black (negative) bonding strips for electrically coupling two or more terminal positions together. These may be trimmed to join only 2 terminals or all terminals on each strip - you decide. You can use any fork or ring terminal (#6~#10) on the clamping screws/pads. Bare wire up to about 14 awg can be used as well. These work very well for my uses and are a great value at the price point. As there are several sizes available, a person could conceivably find all their needs for terminal blocks in one single order! Highly recommended for medium voltage & low voltage applications where high amperage is not being routed. Two thumbs up...get you some!

These are exactly what I was looking for. I have several closet towers that are going to have LED tape lights for accent lighting. I wanted to be sure not to have too long of LED runs and deal with voltage drop, so I bought these distribution blocks so I can wire the closet towers individually and power off of a single larger power supply. I am in the process of running all of the 16 GA in wall rated wire from the blocks to the respective towers and am still in the process of finishing up the installation, but I'll follow up with full pictures when the installation is done. I am not sure I would throw the max 600 volts that they are rated for, but for my 12-volt lighting power, they are the appropriate level of overkill. It's almost a shame that all of this will be hidden in an electrical box.

I do want to say that these are pretty good terminal blocks. The included terminal strips are nice if you want to distribute power across all terminals and they are well made. I would use these for low voltage applications all day and maybe put 120 volts on these. But I would never, ever, ever consider using these for 600 volts are 15 amps. There is a saying that goes "Just because you can do a thing, does not mean you should do that thing. 600 volts at 15 amps can be dangerous and to put that kind of power through one of these terminal strips is a recipe for disaster. And one thing I find a bit amusing is that they show 4 applications in the 2nd picture, but nowhere do you see one of these terminal blocks in use. I'd use these all day for 24 volts or less and even a low amperage 120 volt application. I would also use these for audio applications. But I would never put 600 volts on these.

I love these terminal blocks and I use them often. They especially come in handy when I am installing emergency light and I need to tie together multiple lights into one switch. You can also cut the combined spades if you are ding multiple different circuits. It makes it so easy to do that. The quality of these or very good and the spades are insulated and protected once you put the cap on it. The cap is pretty thick clear plastic. The bus bar is not the thickest but I don’t need them to carry much current so it is more than adequate for my purpose.

Spend a literal extra dollar to have your reds and blacks connected to each other on a single block instead of this crap.

Construction seems solid. Clear plastic covers for the terminals to help minimize shorts. Power buss included ( no need to build your own) and power busses are color coded. The previous owner added circuits to the boat and did it the messy way ... run more wires off the battery posts. These will allow creation of power positive and negative distribution busses so that I can have one wire to each battery post. The loads will connect to the buss. Much neater. Easier to remove the battery. Safer. One improvement would be to give a load rating for the terminals. I suspect they are suitable for most light duty boating electrical loads but it would be nice if there was a rating (Overall per strip and per circuit).