HoyaR72 Screw-in Infrared Lens Filter 67mm - IR Pass Filter for Camera Lens Effects, Range from 760nm and 860nm Light Transmission for Enhancing Creative Effects - Compatible with Mirrorless Cameras

Several years ago, to try Infrared Photography, I bought a cheap ($20) filter that was sold as a 720NM IR filter. It never gave me the results I was looking for, so I put it away.After purchasing the G1X used last year, I decided to try that cheap filter again. The results were the same a before, nothing more than a red filter over the camera. After watching Rob Shey's video on shooting IR with any camera, he listed several high-quality filters to use, with the Hoya 720nm being the one he was using in the video. I decided to spring for the $50 and try this Hoya filter. I was amazed by the difference it made. Now, I was getting the results I was looking for. B&W images with white foliage. Bingo, you do get what you pay for.

First off, the seller (for me) was in Australia so I was concerned that it would take a long time. However, the seller to the best of my calculation, shipped the same day as the order was placed. The package very quickly came in good shape, and the product had the factory seals intact. And the product was nicely priced considering the distance shipped. So, thank you to the seller.Now for the filter: If you like taking striking images, and having a somewhat-familiar but seemingly other-worldly feel to them, then IR photography is something you must try!The very first images that I took with an X-T4 with a 16-80mm f/4, were hand-held, in fully automatic mode and seemed to be about 1/4 second for the shutter (I assume the aperture was also pretty wide). None of them came out blurry, as I did try to really hold steady. Since I had company coming, I just quickly snapped some images of some puffy-white clouds, first in color-mode then B&W, and they all came out just stunning. I was so taken by the perfectly exposed images, I kept looking at them, and looking at them until I was running late for my company! [And I do not seem to have the light spot in my lense like I've seen on many other lenses.] When company left, I again looked at them because they are just so striking. Now, I made no effort at composition, or camera settings or the elimination of incidental unwanted objects in the pictures; but what I was left with, was that this indeed has potential to both inspire and open up a long running vocation.Now, after more experience, I do want to say that you really want a super bright, hot, probably miserable day to really get all the objectry of the shot to do its IR thing. One of the shots that I took, were toward it being cloudy and the effect was markedly reduced. And, this is so cool when you think about it because normally, for the most part, you really are shut down in the midday sun as far as prime landscape photography goes. And so, if you switch to IR you then can just keep composing and shooting. Also, we all think of composition and how we are going to approach a scene. After being in photography for nearly 50 years, (and yes I did shoot Kodak's IR film but did not have the proper filter to really make it work right) you tend to be a little ho-hum about composing since you generally know what your going to get. Well, you can throw a lot of what you know aside, because this will really change how you look at potential subjects--it's that profound! I found myself so excited with renewed sense of curiosity!So, you might ask: "What can you compare this with in your experience?"Well, the first thing that comes to mind, is shooting with Panatomic-X (ASA-32) B&W 4x5" film with a #25 Red filter. When you do this, clouds will pop, the background sky get very dark and you get a slight other-worldly feel. And, when I look at a lot of well-respected B&W photos, I know they used a #25 filter, being obvious when you know what to look for. So, I do highly recommend that you buy one of these as well and coupled with a polarizer, you can really get punchy, high-contrast old-school Agfa-like film effects. It is like a less severe IR filter, that will give you subtlety shifted images where the IR is really another planet!Cons: The only thing that concerns me is the focus shift between natural light and IR. They used to put a red-dot and/or red markings on the lens, showing you how to compensate. All of the shots I've taken so far are at infinity. So, I will have to see how hard it is to focus near-objects.In closing, if you want to reinvigorate your hobby, or get into making striking images--especially modifying in post, then you owe it to yourself to get this filter. I've already decided that this IR filter will be a permanent part of my kit, and I will endeavour to try and shoot IR when I can't shoot in enhanced normal light. Hope you have a great time, and I can't imagine you'll ever be disappointed...

a great IR filter.not like the other cheap fake filter I purchased before.I have both Canon 400D that doesn't had Hot Mirror and Canon 7D that had a Hot Mirror to reflect IR light, I'll post a comparison later.here's the setup I did to take the shot, but before that this is what you must carry with you.1- DSLR Camera2- Lens that support 77mm filter size. (consider that you may need Lens Hood for best quality)3- IR Filter4- Tripod5- Wire or Wireless remotetaking the shot:1- take over exposed shot for the grass with your IR filter. (the healthy grass and faced to the direct sun are recommended)*2- use the shot to make custom WB after that remove the IR Filter.*3- attach your Camera to your Tripod.4- setup the scene for the way you like and make sure you focus.**5- Turn off the AF.6- attach your IR filter and take a test shot with low Aperture like from F11 to 22 to see if there a Hot Spot in the middle or not, if yes it's better stick with aperture of F4 or higher.***7- take your shots.Note 1: I'm using a costume WB is for reference because it'll be so hard to see image washed with red, and with this way it'll be more accurate to see how shot gonna be.Note 2: from my side my cameras able to Auto Focus while the filter is attached but it's still better to remove the IR filter for each scene and attach it again.Note 3: if there's Hot Spot in the middle of the photo I have a bad news for you, you may need to replace your lens, but there's small solution is to use high Aperture (I usually using from F2.8 to F4, if you considering to buy new lens search for recommended lenses for IR photography.Post Processing.before you start process the shots first you need to download Adobe DNG Profile Editor, you can find it easily by Google, you may need to do it once for each camera.First.. Camera Calibration. (Only Once)1- Open any good IR shot with Adobe Camera RAW.2- don't do anything with the image other than putting the temperature to 2000.3- click save button and save the shot as DNG format and close Adobe Camera RAW.4- Open the Adobe DNG Profile Editor in same shot folder or desktop.5- click File>>> Open DNG Image... then open your DNG file we saved before6- click the Color Matrices tap.7- in White Balance Calibration... but the Temperature to 2000.6- click File>>>Export YOUR CAMERA NAME Profile.7- save the profile to C:\Users\USER\AppData\Roaming\Adobe\CameraRaw\CameraProfiles.Second.. Post Processing.1- open any IR shot in Adobe Camera RAW.2- in the right tools, go to the Camera icon or Camera Calibration.3- from Camera Profile chose the profile we created before.4- go to the first tab and now you can choose any number from Temperature or by White Balance tool by hitting I button from keyboard and choose any pixel from image that suitable to your taste.5- Open the shot by holding Shift then click Open Object for we can modify the image in case when we need.6- in Photoshop choose Channel Mixer... from the right tools.7- in Red change the Value to 0 in Red and 100 in Blue.8- in Blue change the Value to 0 in Blue and 100 in Red.9- choose Hue/Saturation...10- change from Master to Cyans.11- change Saturation to -10012- change the lightness to 10013- work with your photo as much as you like.what give is the basics, for more, google Infrared Photography tutorials and you'll find great learning stuff.hope I was helpful.

Great quality filter, returned cause I didn’t get the desirable results I was hoping for. I have sony cameras and apparently the newer the sensor technology the more infrared light it blocks. The filter didn’t do much. Long exposures and tripods are a must if you go the filter route. Didn’t get much color separation and everything foliage looks fuzzy cause the long exposures. Overall mediocre results, next thing for me, convert one of my cameras to IR.If you own a fuji camera you’ll get better results or maybe other brands your mileage may vary.

This is a great filter for IR work with an unconverted camera, just know you will need longer shutter speeds. I'm not sure why Amazon has a rating for autofocus on the product as there is no way autofocus will work with an IR filter in place. You must take care of the focus before you put this, or any other IR filter, in place. Filter is well made and did not show any signs of leakage.

Works well. Happy to find this size IR Filter.

Buena calidad. Se siente sólido, llegó rápido y filtra muy bien.

Hoyas are expensive but results are great. Images are crisp and sharp unlike cheaper IR filter I tried before

A great piece of ND Red Glass. This is a high quality filter

I use on a converted Canon 1200D with just a standard kit lens. Delivers great results and whilst other photographers are hiding from the harsh midday sun, IR photographers can produce some amazing images.The images will come out of the camera red so will need to be edited in post processing to get the classic IR look and feel (I use Lightroom, there are plenty of tutorials on Youtube).If using on an unconverted camera it acts similar to an ND filter so a tripod and long exposure times will be needed to get the best results.