X X-HOUSE Automatic Electric Gate Lock for Swing Gate Opener Automatic Gate Lock with Control Board AC/DC 12-24V for Multi Gate Door Opener Lock

Works great, and doesn't bind on the latch, also stays energized long enough for the latch to release in strong wind, fully adjustable on the included terminal board, for Ghost openers it will not work on the lock terminals on the opener board, you must connect VCC1 to the + battery connector, and the - to the negative going to the opener arm so its energized when the arm is in the open scenario, you must ignore the lock terminals on the board completely, I almost returned it until I used a tester to pin out the connectors, and used common sense. its a shame that instructions are not clearer, and support is useless.

Didn't want to spend the outrageous price Ghost wanted for a lock so I tried this lock. Works great so far and thinking it should last... time will tell. Anyhow, getting the lock to work is not rocket science so here's how I did it:It's pretty simple to make the lock work. The little board supplied can be used to switch on a relay to supply the two amps needed to actuate the lock. The board itself only needs mill amps of current to work so will not impact the control board. Here's what you need to do:I used the crimp connectors (used on vehicles) to tap the twelve volts from the battery. On the Ghost I tapped the supply wires after the connector (coming form the battery) in the control box so that I could disconnect the battery while working. Also I turned off the unit. What you are doing here is providing the battery power to actuate the lock while not using the controller board.Once you have the two wires coming from the battery (16/18 AWG) connect the plus wire to the CM/NO terminal (it doesn't matter). Next connect the negative wire to one of the GND terminals of the board. The battery is now connected to the board.Next take the lock wires (I had to splice an extra 3 ft since my gate is 16 ft) and connect it to the board. Take one wire and connect it to the NO or CM and connect the other to the empty Gnd terminal.OK, what you have now is the board connected to the lock and battery. Next connect a wire to the VCC terminal which is the board's input.So with the five board terminals wired, two from the battery wires and two from the lock, one to VCC, take the VCC terminal and touch the positive terminal of the battery. You should hear the lock actuating. If not check your wiring. The board is just an delayed on/off switch for the lock. So far you haven't needed the gate controller board and should see no smoke!Once the board is wired and working you need to find an input from the controller board to actuate the lock. Since the actuator motor is a DC motor it is polarity sensitive, meaning it will rotate in different directions depending how it's wired. So if you want to change to motor's direction you simply switch it's wires. That's what the controller does to close and open the gate. Look at the wiring going from the controller board to the actuator. On the Ghost controller there will be four wires, two which are black and red and much larger since they supply the current for the motor. Mine is pull to open so it was the red wire that has the 12 volts on it when opening. Once you figure out what wire has the positive voltage needed to supply the motor when opening, just add the VCC wire from the board to the the controller's terminal and you're done with the wiring. If everything was done correctly you'll hear a loud click when the gate starts to open. You can leave the lock pin out until everything seems correct. Unless you know that supplying the lock's power from the controller board wouldn't cause problems because the lock draws an extra two amps, I wouldn't tap into the board to supply the lock's power.

You have to have 12volts and neg wire first of all , then the gate lock then a trigger wire going to the red positive of the gate controller. Y’all need to show this in the drawing properly

Just got it installed with the mighty mule mm371. Just hook it up with mighty mule directions and it good to go. The 371 is a 12 volt system which had me worried it wouldn’t work as well since it can use 12 or 24 volt but it sounds very strong when unlatching plus it’s much cheaper priced than the name brands.

The first one I got had some extra pieces in the box and the keys didn't do anything, so I assumed the extra pieces had to do with it. Sure enough, ordered another one and the extra pieces were attached and the keys worked. Works well and seems very durable.