DollaTek AC 80-260V 100A Current Voltage Amperage Power Energy Panel Meter LCD Digital Display Ammeter Voltmeter Multimeter with open CT

I took a chance on this (reduced to just £10 at the time) rather than one of the £40+ shunt options. This is excellent. It’s essentially a clamp on current transformer and display unit. I put this around the incoming neutral from the supply of my solar inverter,into a mini consumer unit. It displays the generated voltage, wattage, totalised energy in KWh and can be programmed to alarm if required. Needs panel mounting ideally as it has live terminals exposed on the back. So far, I’m very pleased with this device.

4 Stars because of short lead & no case. Tested it over a 24 hour period against my old 5196A white energy meter which is shortly getting changed for a smart meter due to a solar panel upgrade. The plan was to get a comparison of my old meters accuracy and compare it with the new smart meter to see just how accurate the smart meter is. The white meter was reading 39530 at the start of the test and 39566 at the end of the test, a total of 36kWh used. As you can see in the photo the DollaTek clocked up 35kWh over the same period and just 30 seconds or so after I took the photo the DollaTek clocked up another kWh which matched the white meter perfectly. So, all in all, pretty good. I already had an old case lying around and I fitted a long mains lead and soldered on an extension to the inductor lead for ease of use.

We are in dispute with our electricity supplier. Our meter has been reading about 200% over the true consumption value. The company have installed a parallel 'check' meter for a month so that we can have our charges adjusted accordingly (we first reported it about 3 months ago so are owed a refund). Afterwards, they have agreed to replace the faulty meter. However, I was planning to build my own energy meter using an Arduino microcontroller so that we would have a permanent alternative check meter to prevent this situation arising in future. When I saw this meter for sale, it seemed to be a better, less expensive and probably more accurate alternative and indeed, after testing it for two weeks, this has been confirmed. Pros & Cons: Pros: 1. easy to install with no requirement to isolate the mains electricity as the sensor device, the current transformer (CT) opens and clips around one of the output cables from the original meter. 2. only four connections to be made on the back of the device, two to the CT and a live and neutral which I wired to a 13 amp three pin plug. 3. easy to read back-lit display. The display can be switched off. 4. (seemingly) accurate measurement of volts, amps, frequency, power factor and energy consumed since first powered up. 5. remembers energy when ac power is cut. Cons: 1. you need to buy (or make) some sort of electronic project case to mount it in as the mains terminal connections on the rear are exposed and could pose an electric shock hazard. 2. no mains power lead is supplied so you need to make one or get an electrician to wire it for you. However, if you can competently wire a three pin plug, you should be able to manage this. 3. needs to be mains powered as there is no battery option in its design. Overall, I am very pleased with my purchase.

The 2 piece current transformer means you don't need to disconnect any wires to fit. The CT connection wires are very short, I used a length of twin cable to extend mine. The display module is designed for panel fitting, I fitted mine into the box it came in. Can be used to check all your household items but remember that it only works if the CT is fitted around a single conductor.

Device works well but it doesn't come with any way of connecting to a power source. You have to do this yourself which is important to know

Bought this to get an idia of how we do with our electricity feed i think the price was fantastic and now i know what devices in my house hold are the heavy hitters iv closely switched things off one by one and can see clearly what batches of fevices are taking the most energy, some times you look at your electricity bill and think why is this so high with this device it will give you a base reading for all devices once yu clip the senser round the main intake feed to your distribution board, i did not want to modify anything inside the DB cable wise for 1 i am a tenent and 2 even though i am configent with electical cabling i am just not comfertable messing around in DBs ill leave that to the professionals, its not worth being cooked alive if you hit the feed in cable, theres no way of cutting it iff So i decided to go with a plug close by i adopted a sovket choped the wires and installed the cabling to the energy monitor so if i did something wrong the braker would kick in! keeping me alive, and i have sucured the cabling to the wood near the DB and rolled the cable up in the cupboard and can monitor whenever i like leave plugged in,

I'm an electrician and this is a cheap tool to monitor energy use. However, the supplied unit needs to go inside an enclosure (see photo) to prevent accidental touching of the live terminals underneath the unit. The CT clamp wires are too short for most applications and so you will need to extend them. In addition the CT clamp does not have a direction arrow as it needs to be placed on the power cable in the direction of the current flow. Hence, its advisable to test it first on a known source like a kettle and find which way works. Also, the wattage display units are in Kw not Watts as shown on display. Testing on a kettle reads 3.02 which is about right.

Cheap and nasty. Waste of money

excellent

Grâce à ce petit appareil tout simple, que j'ai installé dans un coffret plastique également trouvé sur Amazon, j'ai pu mesurer ma consommation électrique exacte, et vérifier mon compteur Linky en clipsant le capteur torique autour du câble de phase principal à la sortie du compteur. Et j'ai constaté que mon compteur me comptait systématiquement 200 Watts de plus que la réalité dès que ma conso descendait en dessous de 1 kW ! Le mode d'emploi est en anglais (ou chinois !) mais il suffit de savoir qu'il n'y a pas de sens à respecter (on peut inverser phase et neutre, ou fil rouge et noir pour le capteur, il faut juste ne pas confondre les bornes 230V avec les bornes dédiées au capteur ! Le bouton permet d'éteindre le rétro éclairage, ou de le rallumer. Lorsque le courant est coupé, l'état éteint ou allumé du rétroéclairage est conservé, ainsi que le cumul de consommation enregistré en kW/h. On peut remettre à zéro cette consommation avec un appui prolongé sur le bouton, mais aussi régler une alarme de surconsommation instantanée qui fait clignoter l'écran si on dépasse la puissance choisie. L'écran affiche la tension en Volts, l'intensité en Ampères, la puissance instantanée en Watts ou kW, l'énergie cumulée consommée en Wh ou kWh, la fréquence du courant (normalement 50 Hz) et le facteur de puissance qui varie entre 0 et 1 et qui indique le décalage entre la puissance active et la puissance apparente, en tenant compte des caractéristiques du circuit de consommation, plutôt inductif, résistif ou capacitif... (pour les experts). Si vous branchez un gros moteur, le facteur de puissance va diminuer, alors que pour un appareil purement résistif, comme un convecteur, il sera égal à 1,0 : la puissance apparente est alors égale à la puissance active. Je trouve que pour le prix, c'est un excellent appareil, avec une précision bien suffisante pour moi (autour de ± 1 %), vraiment complet et facile à exploiter.

Ich setzte es in der Teichtechnik ein. Nicht alle elek. Bauteile der Filter g und Belüftungsanlage sind in der korrekten Funktion erkennbar . Ein Nlick auf dad Gerät zeigt an, ob auch alle Vetbraucher funktionieren. Ist die volle Ampere Zahl nicht erreicht, verrät die Differenz schnell den Übeltäter . Es wird viel angezeigt und einige Werte sind überflüssig . Die Frequenz beispielsweise. Unser Netz in Deutschland weist 50 Hz auf. So war es immer und so bleibt es auch. Wer braucht diese Bestätigung ? Dafür wäre eine min / max Anzeige sinnvoller.

Eenvoudig om te plaatsen. Het metertje sluit je aan op 230 volt en de bijbehorende ring doe je in de meterkast om de plus/fase draad In huis is dat gewoonlijk de bruine kleur, maar in de camper bleek het de blauwe kleur. Dus even meten met de spanningzoeker als je de ring plaatst in een caravan/camper of boot. Voordeel van de meter is dat je kunt controleren of je te veel ampère van de camping gebruikt (lastig als de stoppen er uit knallen). Bovendien is het makkelijk als je de stroom moet afrekenen. Je hebt dan een eigen meting om te kunnen controleren.

Fonctionne très bien. Je l'ai installé dans le tableu électrique de ma piscine afin de connaître la consommation exacte au cours de l'année. (Surprenant... la conso!)