10g Thermal Conductive Silicone Plaster Viscous Adhesive Compound Cooling Glue For LED GPU Chipset Heatsink

Works as advertized. (I used it to glue and seal a heat exchanger). Takes a few hours to set and forms a strong bond. Would help to have detailed spec sheet giving thermal conductivity.

good quality glue for heat sink of processor etc

This glue ruined my chipset

Worked great 👍 👌

This thermal glue is great. It glues the heat sink to the IC very tight. In my experience, the curing time is very long. Over one week to fully cure. I do not regret buying it. I have used it with several ICs since I purchased it. The fluid is still good inside the tube even months after opening. I though it would be hardened by now, 9 months after opening. The fluid is not a paste, I would say, it is medium thick fluid. It does not run and it is easy to apply. A small application works great.

Had to use this with an crypto miner that needed new heatsinks and never experienced a problem since then

I purchased this adhesive in June 2018 and first used it over the past couple of days to assemble homemade heat sinks and apply them to NVME SSDs. Before bonding parts I applied the adhesive to lapped 1/2" square pieces of 1/16" thick aluminum 1100 and applied moderate pressure. A joint gap of .001" was measured with calipers. At a thermal conductivity of 1.2 W/m-K, this bond thickness has neglible thermal resistance for my application. Bonding of parts was done at a humidity of ~30% and a temperature of ~70°F. The adhesive did not "skin over" or otherwise exhibit an increase in viscosity during the fifteen minutes or so that I was working with it. I prefer a slower curing adhesive so that I do not have to race to get parts assembled before increased viscosity causes problems. This applies in particular to parts being bonded to circuit board components since large clamping forces have the risk of damaging the circuit board. Silicone (polysiloxane) adhesives require moisture to cure and this moisture can be provided from the atmosphere or adsorbed moisture on surfaces that are being bonded. Thin joints will cure faster than thicker joints. If you are not going to be able to leave the bonded parts alone for at least 24 hours, it is a good idea to bond pieces of scrap metal and/or plastic and test the bond strength of the test pieces prior to putting your bonded assembly into service. Cleaning surfaces to be bonded with a cotton swab and isopropanol and/or acetone (not suitable for some plastics) is also recommended since the solid filler used to enhance thermal conductivity inhibits the flow and wetting capability of the silicone adhesive. TANSTAAFL. Two pieces of copper were cleaned, bonded, and tested after a 24 hour cure (see photo). The lap joint (~.3 sq.in.) held up under the application of a 10 pound shear force, but failed at 20 pounds. The adhesive in the interior region of the failed joint was still plastic, indicating that the joint wasn't fully cured; however the bond was strong enough for my application.

This stuff is amazing! It’s very strong when cured and has excellent thermal conductivity. I used it to attach peltier coolers to water blocks and they perform better with the thermal glue than they did with thermal paste! My only warning is that it does take a while for the cure process to really get started. On the one hand this is great because you have lots of time to make adjustments, but before the curing process starts things can slide around a lot. Be sure you can either fasten things together or set them up in a way that they won’t move for an hour or two while the curing process starts.