Gizmo Dorks Kapton Tape Polyimide for 3D Printers and Printing, 9 x 12 inches, 10 Sheets per Pack

Used these with my son’s makergear m2. Worked ok.

This is some good stuff! At 1st, I had a problem with the prints sticking to the Kapton but cured that real fast. What I did was to clean the Kapton with denatured alcohol as I believe it may have had some sort of lubricant (silicone release? ) on it from the manufacturing process. After wiping it down real good with the alcohol I sprayed it with 'Hair Spray'. Once I did this, I have had no problem with the prints adhering to the build platform and I have run ~25 prints on it so far without any need to recondition the surface. Prints still adhere firmly and the surface is still glass like smooth. When the time does come to recondition, I can wipe it clean with the denatured alcohol as it will dissolve and remove the hair spray coating easily and then re spray.They recommend 2 ways to apply this to the platform, I used and highly recommend, that you use the wet method. The wet method allows for a bubble free application and it is fast and easy. I know this from experience in applying vinyl to substrates for the sign industry Doing it with the dry method you will end up with bubbles that will transfer directly to your printed parts as they are next to impossible to remove.The way it is going so far, I can see this packet of Kapton lasting a long, long time!

I ordered this item for my son who is a beginner at working with his 3D machine. His projects were not sticking to the mat. We tried cleaning (the machine had only been used once before) releveling, temperature change and still had problems. This was a good price for the quantity. Packaging was fine, but we followed the directions and 3 different times 1/3 through the print the tape came off of the mat and caused the print to be stopped and cancelled. We tried this as one whole sheet and then twice as a smaller square the size needed to adequately cover the project space. Each time had the same result.

I bought this for my 3d printer. Initial look showed the edges between the polyimide and the backing were offset to make it easier to separate. No it was not. The adhesive on the polyimide made it difficult. Then the polyimide curled itself into a roll, all stuck together. After ruining two sheets, I finally got one in place with windex under it and it insisted on curling up away from the glass plate forcing me to put weights on to hold it down.I've been using this kind of product for 5 years from other vendors without a problem.Do not buy this one.

I used to use another product, but they changed to a thinner thickness, and its performance was so-so (fewer builds per sheet). Then they switched to a quite weak adhesion, and I graded the material use as poor. I switched to Gizmo Dorks 4 mil film, and it does have the improved thickness, but the adhesion is still weak. I can use this material (I grow lots of ABS), but I pretty much am resorting to using clamps to hold the tape edges down while growing (which sucks). Never had to do that before. I wish I could find the 4 mil thickness material with better adhesion...

This stuff is amazing! You have to heat it some to get PLA to stick to it (i start at 70c and then turn off the bed after 5 layers) but when it is done right the bottom surface is like glass. Reorient your prints so the surface you want to show off is down and you will not be sorry. I did have my head a little too low at first and destroyed an area of the first sheet, it melted and pushed up into a ridge but after I adjusted the level it has been very easy and reliable to print on. Wipe it down with alcohol before each print. I have been using 70% with good results.I plan to buy more just to have on hand in case I wear this out but I don't see that happening any time soon.

I've kind of adopted an old 3D printer at work. It sat unused for some time, and I've slowly been bringing it back from hibernation. It's useful for prototypes, small fixtures, etc. so it's worth spending time with it.One problem I had was parts lifting away from the print bed. I print in ABS, and no matter what I did with the settings, parts with a lot of surface area just would not stick. I tried cleaning the bed with acetone, scuffing it slightly to give it a rougher surface texture, and using painter's tape (masking tape) on the bed surface. None of the recommendations that I found on various forums and manufacturers' sites cured it completely.One of the recommendations was to use Kapton tape on the machine bed so I found these sheets. I thoroughly cleaned the bed of the machine, then cleaned it again, just to be sure. I wet the surface down and applied the sheet of Kapton. It was a minor PITA because the sheet curls and sticks to itself, but I managed to get it to lay down on the machine bed. I then used a squeegee (a plastic Bondo scraper) and, working from the center out, got all the bubbles and water out. A couple of small spots on the edges failed to adhere, but overall the tape was very smooth and adhered well.I couldn't wait to try it out so I preheated the machine and... bubbles. Bubbles everywhere. As soon as the bed of the machine began to heat up (necessary for ABS printing), bubbles formed between the tape and the bed. No amount of squeegee action would push them toward the edge.I resorted to lifting the tape off the preheated bed and laying it back down again. I peeled it back to about the middle of the bed, then laid it back down and worked any bubbles out with the squeegee. If you can't get a bubble out, peel it back a bit and rework it. Once half the sheet is laying nicely, repeat from the other end of the bed. This got rid of most of the bubbles, though there were still a few persistent ones that refused to go.The first couple of prints went fine. I got good surface quality and no adhesion problems, though I was printing small items that usually adhered well anyway. Then the tape tore when I tried removing one of the prints. It was only a small tear, but a couple others appeared after one or two more prints. I went back to painter's tape for a while, continuing to tweak settings and get the hang of the machine.Fast forward to last week. I had the machine apart for maintenance and decided to try the Kapton again. This time I took the bed completely out to make installation easier. Thinking that the bubbles had been due to some sort of surface contamination, I cleaned the bed repeatedly with acetone until there was not a trace of residue on it. Acetone flashes off quickly with no residue and is the recommended cleaner for the print bed. I once again wet the bed down, then laid the Kapton on it and maneuvered it into position. I again used a squeegee to work the water and bubbles away, occasionally peeling the tape back and laying it down again to get rid of any stubborn voids.When I was done, the surface was once again glass-smooth. I reinstalled the bed, buttoned up the machine, and began a preheat cycle. And... bubbles. AGAIN. There was NO moisture left on the build plate before I preheated it so I can only assume that the bubbles come from the adhesive out-gassing. I tried to peel the tape back and reapply it to smooth some of the bubbles out but it tore. I ended up replacing it with painter's tape. AGAIN.Maybe I'm doing something wrong in applying it, but I've been very VERY careful. I'll probably try it again in the future (I do have 8 more sheets, after all). If I hit upon some magic combination I'll update this review.In the meantime, I managed to solve most of my curling problems by making an ABS/acetone slurry and applying it to the painter's tape on the bed before printing. The slurry bonds to the bed, and the 3D printed ABS bonds to the slurry. Adhesion is very good-- too good sometimes. The painter's tape will sometimes tear on large prints, and the surface has to be stripped clean and the slurry reapplied every so often. But the prints don't curl, and that's a step in the right direction.

This (orange) film melts with a soldering iron just like the (clear) support PET film. A roll of real kapton tape is not changed by the same soldering iron. This stuff may still be OK for 3D printing but I needed it for a different application.