Denali/Mount McKinley: Summit of North America (Rucksack Pocket Summits)

I have been on Denali twice with self-guided expeditions, each time with a copy of Colby Comb's West Buttress guide book in hand. Since then, Harry Kikstra has published a series of concise climbing guides which have just enough information in a small, compact package. This is a book that truly can and should be included in the backpack or sled, and Mr. Kikstra is to be commended for his effort.Kikstra provides detail where it is important...his description of the West Buttress route is superior and detailed. I appreciate that Kikstra--a European--provides altitudes and distance in feet and miles, not just meters and kilometers.Denali's is a most dangerous mountain because it is readily assessible by airplane, and the West Buttress has a misinformed reputation as being a "walk-up" by climbers who fancy themselves "cutting edge". It often is crowded with climbers who may or may not have good climbing expertise and judgement. Further, as one of the "7-Summits", many are motivated to climb this mountain but don't put adequate preparation and training into doing so. The first time I went to Denali--in June, 2004--a climber descending the route with a guided expedition was killed at Windy Corner because of rockfall; another was seriously injured. Crevasse falls are common--two of my ropemates experienced crevasse falls in June, 2006 and frankly both are lucky to be alive. Also in June, 2006, our team arrived in Talketna as rescue parties were wrapping up their search for sponsored climbers Sue Nott and Karen McNeill, who disappeared on Mt. Foraker earlier that season. This region and this climb is not for the faint of heart.I would have appreciated more information on how to rig those blasted kiddy sleds which Denali climbers use to transport their approximately 100+ pounds of food/equipment up the Kahiltna Glacier. Such sleds typically aren't used for most other mountains, particularly those outside the Arctic. For example, Kikstra and all other Denali guidebook writers should advise potential climbers to bring 4 six-foot lengths of flat webbing and 4 compatible Fastex buckles to quick-release rig these sleds, threading each strand of webbing through two grommet holes to form 4 separate tie-downs--a simple and elegant solution. Also, greater exploration of the merits of randonee skis over snowshoes would be of great benefit for the first-time climber on this very ski-friendly route. (A skier can skin up the West Buttress much faster and comfortably than a climber on snowshoes...not to mention the descent.)Bottom line is this...don't attempt this mountain unless you humbly acknowledge your own limitations, are serious about taking your time and acclimating, and follow the very good advise given in Kikstra's guide. Happy climbing...

I used Harry's guide extensively to not only prepare for Denali, but while climbing it as well.If you're looking for a guide for Denali, there is no better than this one because before you're on the mountain, you get:- all planning and preparation info including flight details from Talkeetna along with permits. Hint: HEED Kikstra's advice!- Enough background and history to be sure you don't look like an idiot but not so much that you gouge out your eyes in boredom.While you're on the mountain:- It's concise, compact, and waterproof. When you're on the mountain, you can tear out the 'preparation' pages you don't need to save a little weight and have a killer, daily guide. The photos were always of the relevant landmarks and time estimates were always accurate.- You'll have all relevant camps, elevations, and distances. The contoured map that is the back flap is super-useful.The Bottom Line:I love this guide because it gives you everything you need to know and leaves out all the useless garbage that thickens up other books. I'd gladly pay double or triple for that alone. There is no book on Denali out there that NAILS why you're buying the book in the first place - climbing the mountain - like this one does and no other book is so well thought out for the time you're mountaineering. This book was a big reason we were able to summit in the rapid 16 days that my team did.

This little pocket reference is as described. Has good enough information and easy to carry. I would given 5 starts but the prints are little small for me (for those needing reading glasses). Kind of defeats the purpose since my expectation was to take this around especially outdoor reading where carrying a reading glasses can be inconvenient. If you do not have this issue then all should be fine. I like it so much I bought one on Aconcagua. One of my husband's hiking goals.

very organized, very straight forward, very easy to follow

This is an excellent book. Well written, clear and concise. Nice pictures. Fun facts. Highly recommend.

Anyone planning on climbing Denali this is a must have book. I have read every book, article, trip report but this is the one you want to take with you.

Well, I got to the top and the book was in my pack. Solo ascent so I needed to have something with me. The book is very basic thus 4 stars out of 5. I am not sure the author made a lot of decisions by himself vs. with team mates. For example he does not tell you:a) That weather forecasts are only good for big storms not small ones. So ignore "small storm" warning but take very seriously big storm warning. Some people just ignored the whole forecast and got stuck at high camp for a week.b) To climb solo you need to start in min or even early May. Take skis. Crevasses are minor issue then given the beaten path. Especially if you take skis.c) For sled I found out that on the way down there is very little you can do especially solo - maybe just keep it in front of you like a dog. If two people ski and are experts they can keep sled between them. Skiing with sled down solo is for olympians only.d) on the first day after landing immediately start hiking - weather is good - don't waste that day!e) most of the "safety" stuff just takes up weight in your pack. I was not wise to follow "advice" - an experienced solo climber from BC just didn't take almost any safety stuff as it simply is not used... Never used my 30m 8mm rope or crevasse probe.f) Weather is king - check all the time. If you want to summit in a bad year such as 2014 you will have to take some risks or cut some corners or both.g) its cold - my DSLR froze ;( "guide" style gloves work above even high camp when going up. After that you will climb in you parka. Otherwise -20F bag is fine and you use your parka only in camp. Most people wear same boots as on Everest.h) I like cheese as snack - make sure if you do as well to cut it in camp into small pieces, when up at high camp there is no way to defrost larger blocks no matter how hard you try.i) There is more protection on this route setup then realistically needed - if you want to rope up with friends you find out that there is enough pro there to keep you happy. If going solo take zero pickets, if with friends take maybe 1 each for glacier travel - you will not need to place any pro on the route itself. Any spot with even remote possibility of a fall is protected. Even if pickets were missing there is enough others to keep you safe - or simply don't clip in - you move faster.

Ich habe dieses Buch für einen Trip zum Denali gekauft und bin sehr zufrieden mit dem Inhalt, dem Format und der Qualität. Es gibt viele Informationen, Details und Tipps. Kann es nur empfehlen!