Brownells Aluma-Hyde II Epoxy Based Firearms Finish (O.D. Green)

shake the can until your arm falls off, then use the other arm to shake it some more; great finish if you do your prep work right; it has a slight build, which is great for hiding light scratches, but not so much that it covers stamped lettering or other details; next application I will get a pack of new nozzles, as I'm pretty sure the one it came with won't work again; I got a little bit of spatter on this first project, but I attribute that to insufficient shaking (they are serious about that) and possibly a cheap nozzle; once applied, I could lightly handle the pieces without a problem after a few hours to put them away for curing; be patient - spray and walk away; minimal texture, very durable, easier application than a leading competitor that sounds like Sara Goat; premium paint that will get the climate-controlled storage it deserves

The best. Been using for over ten years. When you use decent nozzles and clean the outlet after use this lasts for multiple applications. Shake well and warm the can to 70-90 degrees to prevent separation and clogging. I use this to coat wood, aluminum, steel, and polymers. With proper surface preparation and three very light coats, this stuff is amazingly durable. I have high wear items Cerakoted and I coat everything else with Aluma-Hyde II. My projects look 100% professional. I use the bake cure method for both metals and polymers. (that can handle 190-200 deg). I have found this coating to be pretty damn tough chip and scratch resistant when applied properly. surface prep and coating method is critical. I have a item professionally cerakoted that has not held up as well as a properly coated aluma-hyde II item. You do not need to sand or bead blast parts, you can coat after degreasing. Really phenomenal stuff. I have found this to be harder than the original Duracoat. Have not compared to new generation Dura- and Cera but it's rugged and affordable enough to use as a working coating on virtually any tool that you need coated. Like Cera and Dura, I do not use on internal high tolerance parts without masking critical bearing surfaces. Holds up to heat, moisture, and holds oils and lubes well. Scuffs and scratches can be buffed with some oil. I do not get cracking due to my light spray method with a bake cure. I have blasted and Cera coated parts to achieve higher abrasion resistance but this is the best DIY coat I have found that does not involved blasting.

I've first used aluma hyde in the 2000's. It is a good, durable epoxy based coating with a variety of color options. The key(s) is surface prep and shaking the life out of the can, and keep shaking(mixing) it, keep the spray nozzle clean and clear. Carb cleaner is your friend for that. Let it cure for a couple weeks in a warm place. then use items. CeraCoat and AlumaHyde are 2 different coatings, if you understand this, you won't be disappointed with AlumaHyde, which is a user friendly all-in-one coating option vs. CeraCoat

I'm on my 3rd can! It's like Franks Red Hot, I put that ish on everything! 12 ga, six shooter, knife scales, hatchets, magazines, handles, all kinds of stuff. Works great over FRN / Grivory / plastic knife scales and even better with G10. Not the best on Micarta because of the base scale material, but I've tried it and it stuck around for a few weeks. Biggest suggestion is to Follow the Instructions. I had zero luck with the forced cure procedure, but I'm a newb and I know my limitations! Will definitely buy again!

this is very good paint and leaves a very durable finish! easy to use and rugged!

This paint works great. I ordered 3 cans of different colors and had good success with the painting of two firearms. I lightly sprayed the 1st coat, waiting 20-30 minutes and sprayed again. In between this process I baked the parts on a metal screen. I actually ended up with great results. I did run into the usual problem with these cans as the nozzles get clogged. I was able to slow that process down by soaking the nozzles in paint thinner however it was not a permanent solution. I bought the pack of extra nozzles from Brownells when they came back in stock. That swap is a very simple process. I would suggest having 3 spare nozzles per can just in case. It should just come with a lot for that. Would give it a 5 star review however the nozzles take a star away.

I used this on a 24" Varmint AR. I used this on the stock and the free float forearm. The receivers and barrel in brown Aluma-Hyde II. Prep the metal as required. Watch the videos on You Tube and do not cut corners. Give it time to cure before use. It is probably not as tough as Duracoat or Cerakote but you can apply it without heat and it is much tougher than typical spray paint.

Great spray, I’ve used in the past. but this time around I got a defective can that was all jelled in the nozzle and wouldn’t stop spraying. It messed up my parts and had to sand blast the stuff off. Not to mention half the $30 can dripped down my hand and the can. When I contacted customer support, I didn’t receive any word back. 1 star for terrible customer service.