Twidec/Display PID Temperature Controllers Thermostat Box 1000W 10A 110V Temperature Temp Control Box with Solid State Relay SSR 40DA Oven Thermostatic Control Box

I got this to control the temp in cacao fermentation and sweat vanilla beans. Basically hold a consistent temp at 115-125' in a plastic beer cooler using a modified tiny electric space heater. It was very simple to set the hold temp and its working perfect. It is possible to set programs, I am just holding a consistent temp and manually adjusting the set point. Way easier taking 5 minutes to wire this to a ceramic heating element than building something similar from individual components.

I can't believe the instructions have a set button illustrated and the box has mode on it.I need instructions for model MY-104 if you have them.Thank-you

Update: The reviews here are for a group of products, not just one. This review is specifically for the Twidec PID temperature controller Thermostat Box 1000W 10A 110V Temperature Temp Control Box with Solid State Relay SSR 40DA Oven Thermostatic Control Box. P/N WENKBOX.The instructions are indeed written to an engineer, not a regular person, and the grammar is bad to boot. Instructions are tiny, in red print and totally confusing.HOWEVER: once you get it wired and setup, it seems to work wonderfully. I’m using this to control a Lee Pro 4 20lb lead melter for casting boolits. It seems to hold the temp within about 10 degrees of the target which is acceptable for me.Pro’s: Cost. For $130, a 10A plug and play PID controller box is cheaper than I can make on my own.Use: well, it works, does what it’s supposed toCons: instructions are awfulWiring: it would be better if you didn’t need to cut the cord to your furnace and hard-wire it. Would be better to have a 110V receptacle in back to just plug stuff in. Also, screws with 15Amps from the wal are exposed. Thise should have been hidden inside the box, again with a plug.

I use this temp controller to control some heaters and it works great!

Unfortunately, there aren't a lot of assembled temperature control boxes with switch, controller, solid state relay, etc. This is about the only thing I could find, and it's kind of cheap. Has an unnecessarily large power indicator light, sort of too large rotary switch (just give me a small toggle, or even better, a lighted toggle) and a cheap PID temperature controller. The controller sells for about $30 on here (got a spare for this and another real temperature controller that currently has a Watlow 96) and the SSRs are only like $10-15. So even saying those two parts are $50 worth, there's nothing but the case, switch, indicator light and barrier terminals on the back.Nothing inside is grounded and it would be really difficult to do so, because each individual side of the box is a single flat piece, mounted in plastic rails that form the edges/corners, so you'd have to put a screw in each side and scratch off the paint there to get good contact. Everything inside is crimp connectors, and in my experience those can separate sometimes and create a hazard. There are no dedicated jacks/plugs/inlets on the back, just that damned barrier strip. So to power it, you have to hook up a cord with spade lugs and put them under the screws. There's no insulated cover or anything. Thermocouples also similarly attach to the barrier strip, and your heater (or other controlled device) also has line voltage just sitting there on exposed terminals.I used a nibbler to cut some square holes in the back to put a proper IEC connector on the back. No idea why these folks wouldn't do that from the factory. Similarly, I put a US-standard receptacle on the back in its own hole, as well as a panel mount thermocouple connector. Cutting square holes isn't something easily done accurately, so a lot of the value of buying this thing already assembled is gone. Also the parts cost something (I probably had another maybe $50 putting it together as well as an afternoon and evening to get it modified). And then after all of that, I still had that barrier strip there, which I finally took off. Because of the position of the SSR, controller and existing switches, it's not so easy to fit all of the stuff in (I had to drill new holes in the bottom and move the SSR to fit the IEC connector).Please, make one of these with a grounded box, and IEC inlet for power, a standard plug outlet (or maybe IEC male connector to make it easily adaptable internationally) and a thermocouple jack on the back. It will be much safer and more convenient.

This was advertised with an MV-100 controller and promised Pt100 support. It was delivered with an MY-104, which only supports thermocouples. So, it's useless to me.

Works well.

I have not yet run the controller, although I expect that it will work Ok. I did find though that the documentation provided with the unit seems to be incorrect for the controller I received, and there was no documentation of the internal wiring. One other comment - it is clear from the photos that the terminals where you connect power are exposed, but it would be a great improvement to have touch-safe terminals instead.