Weaver Detachable 1-Inch Low Top Mount Rings

Looks good on classic rifle. Wanted to put on older firearm and older optic to keep things period accurate. All weaver mounts are economical and hold well.

Lower than MagPul Rings and V-Base. Cheaper than any other option. I purchased these rings specifically to attach a SureFire flashlight to an AR-15-style rifle. This review reflects that use ONLY, and is not necessarily applicable for use with a riflescope. I chose the Weaver Detachable 1-Inch Low Top Mount Ring because they are the absolute lowest (closest to bore/sights, or lowest height-over-bore) of any mounting method for CR123-powered lights. Mounted directly to the side of a railed forend, or on a Magpul MOE Scout Mount, or on a Magpul MOE Rail Light Mount, there are no options that are lower profile. The latter two mounts will accept a SureFire Scout Light body, or the Arisaka Scout body, (both fine tactical lights) and get closer to the bore, but only at a significant cost penalty. As the rings ship from Amazon, they will accept the Surefire 6P/9P body, Z41 (standard alloy) tailcap, or the Z59 ("clicky") tailcap. These lights are close to 1.00" diameter. The Surefire G2/G3 lights with the polymer body and polymer tailcap (my preferred light) are slightly larger in diameter. A 4-bolt scope ring (or polymer option like the VTAC Light Mount) will easily accomodate this, but with these Weaver Detachable 1-Inch Low Top Mount Rings it's necessary to procure longer 6/40 screws/bolts to allow the ring top half to secure the ~1.03". I found the screws here on Amazon, ASIN B00F333BP0. $6.68 for 100, enough to mount 50 lights on rifles. Cut down slightly with . Given that these rings are not designed specifically to accommodate flashlights, this is a small price to gain the low mounting height.

I've used this exact same model of mount rings for almost thirty years now, and they are as good today as they were when I bought my first set back in 1984. The original Weaver scope mount system is one of the most popular systems of all, and for plenty of good reasons: simplicity, strength, availability of bases and rings alike from a variety of manufacturers (other than Weaver themselves), and compatibility with the Picatinny system that has grown so popular lately. The clamping surfaces are wide and solid to support and secure the scope, and removal is easy, with a reasonable return close to zero once reinstalled. I should also mention that these low rings are still by far the lowest available in the Weaver type, so that may be important to those of you who would prefer having your scopes mounted as low as possible. For those wondering how to mount these, here are the steps, which are slightly different from competing Weaver style rings without this type of ring cap. 1) When mounting to your rail, lightly clamp the rings to it without the top caps, then set your scope on the rings to find your best position for eye relief. 2) Degrease ALL surface with acetone: the tops and bottoms of both rings, all screws and the clamp plates they go through, the rail and its screws and the screw holes in the gun receiver, and your scope tube 3) Mount the rail to the receiver, seeing that all screws are tight, and that the rail is properly aligned and position fore and aft. You may also want to put a drop of the blue removable Loc-Tite to each screw to ensure no screw loosening under firing recoil. 4) Using a large flat head screwdriver, mount both ring lower halves to the rail as they were in step #1. You may want to use a drop of the blue Loc-Tite on both screws here. 5) Place the scope exactly as before in step #1, then carefully place the top caps over the scope tube, hooking the side without the screw holes around the part of the ring that engages that. 6) Start all four screws on the other side of the top caps, but don't tighten completely yet. You may want to use the blue Loc-Tite on these, too. 8) Ensure the scope reticle is properly leveled. 7) Now, gently turn all four screws until they just make solid contact with the top cap evenly. 8) Ensuring the reticle is still level, turn each screw the same number of turns in sequence, starting at the forward most screw, then the other three coming rearward. It would probably be best to turn each only a quarter turn at a time to ensure no twisting or scope tube rotation. With each cycle of tightening all four screws, check the reticle for alignment. 9) Once all screws are snugged evenly to a reasonable level, and the reticle is still level, you should be ready to sight in. I went through all those steps because sometimes people get frustrated by the top caps twisting the scope's reticle out of alignment. Happy shooting.

Mounted on a Marlin 1895CB and with a low profile Warne Maxima base, the scope sits as low as it can be mounted. This setup makes for a much better cheek weld as compared to a chin weld that's needed with other mounts and rings. Only reason it doesn't get 5 stars is the fact that these rings have a major design flaw that makes centering the scope a pain. As you tighten the two screws per scope ring, the entire scope itself twists towards that side. You need to off set the scope before you begin tightening the rings, this will in turn move the scope towards center as you tighten down the screws. Good luck getting the proper torque on the screws and still keeping the scope center. It's a pain!

perfect for your Gordon, BHD, Blood Diamond clone for light mounting

These rings are the lowest weaver style rings that I have been able to find and are the best available, in my opinion, in this price range. When installing these rings you really need some sort of device or way of verifying that the scope reticle is level because as you tighten the rings the scope is canted in the direction of the ring screws, and there is no way around this. You have to start with the reticle rotated slightly toward the opposite side of the ring screws and slowly tighten the ring screws evenly until you have them as tight as you want them and then check to see if level. If not, loosen the rings and start over. This may require several tries. If you exercise patience and are persistent you will eventually get it right. I personally found it very helpful to use the Segway reticle leveler to use as a reference tool to show whether the reticle is level or canted. You can't simply hold the rifle and trust your eyes to tell you if it is level because this is not precise. These rings are very strong and I highly recommend them, but the low rings will be too low in many applications. If that is the case you can go with the mediums and still be lower than most other manufacturers low rings. When in doubt, simply buy a pair of each and return the ones you don't need.

These are very basic, but do the job well. They're well built, went easily on my K31, and are plenty low enough to make sure my cheek weld isn't too high (which if you're familiar with the K31 scout set up, it's easy to get the scope too high.) Not much else to say -- its a great set of rings for the money.

Mated to a 10/22 takedown and a Simmons scope. I can take the scope off the gun and the barrel off the receiver and it will return to zero within a minute-of-squirrel at 25 yards. I with the screws were retained but I knew they weren't when I bought them. Lowest rings you will find. Listen to what they say about having a hard time getting your reticle lined up. It's a little annoying if you don't do it right.I think the top reviewer has the steps right.

The mount works fine. The design is the problem. Once you put 1 piece of the ring on your scope tube and it’s very difficult to clip on the other piece. If you are not being extremely careful, it’s very easy to scratch the tube. Personally I will not buy another pair of these. Rings without this “clip on” mechanism are much easier and safer to install on your scopes.

Exactly what I ordered. Positioned the scope exactly where I wanted it.

Perfect size, fit, finish

These are great rings, and do a good job of holding the scope. I will suggest to other buyers however, that when putting the top half of the rings over the scope that they cover the scope body with a thin piece of nylon or other material to prevent the possibility of the rings marring the scope.

Bonne montures solide , un petit défaut pare contre, le fait de serrer un seul côté fait tourner la croix c’est un peu plus difficile d’installer le télescope au niveau, mais avec un peu de patience on y arrive.