MK8 Hot End Extruder Nozzle Kit 0.4mm for 3D Printer,Assembled Extruder Brass Kits 1.75mm,30mm A8 Throat Tubing Aluminum Heater Block for RapRep i3 Anet A2 A8 3D Printer Part Replacement

I bought this for my ANET A8 Plus. Fits perfectly. Only one problem, my machine is 24V, not 12V. I wasn't thinking. After I installed and began to run my first test print, I noticed the end temperature jumped 10 degrees each refresh instead of the normal 2 or 3 degrees. Great, it will warm up faster I thought. Little did I think it's getting too much power. The temp soared even after the power to the ender stopped (thermal lag.) The test print started and after 15 or so minutes the machine shut down from ender heating problem. It took, me forever to realize that I put in this 12V heater when I needed a 24V heater. The DC resistance is about 4 ohms on this unit, my old on was 15 ohms. P=V^2/R. P=24*24/15 = 38W - perfect. For the 12V units, 12*12/4 = 36V - perfect. BUT, 24*24/4 = 144 W - way too much and I=V/R so the current was 24/4 or 6 Amps. Too much for the resettable onboard fuse to handle and it fried instead of doing what it should have done. It took me a long time to figure out the problem, so beware. I replaced the board fuse with an external fuse and am going to MOSFET heater control so I can easily swith from 24V or 12V depending on my heater cartridge. Without the blowing out problem - which was my fault - this was a great buy. I ordered another to have as a spare.

So, I had a near fire with the previous unit when it mucked up and balled around the hot end, but also managed to push out the heating element to the point that it caused a thermal runaway. I came downstairs just as it started to combust, purely by chance. I took the chance to replace this and do some cleaner rewiring in the split loom and more intentional cable lengths instead of ALL the cable...ever. Very pleased.

slight smoke at first heat, smelled of oil. got 10 minutes into first print, thermal runaway. restart printer, now will not heat above 40c and then throws E1 Heating failed

Perfect fit for my Ender 3 Pro

I mangled the wires where they attached to the heater/thermistor on my Anet A8 printer. This did the job (didn't use the extruder parts, just the heater/thermistor). Be aware that if you have one of the older A8's, the plug that goes from the thermistor to the circuit board is a three pin plug. This one is a two pin plug - so a bit of splicing was required.

I installed it, but had to replace the print nozzle. I prefer the steel ones, they last longer. The unit is pretty well made, better that the OEM. I have only used it a couple times so far, it heats up pretty quickly, and the the temperature sensor seems to be reading correctly. The plug for the temperature sensor was not the right one for my main board. But I made it work by pulling the pins out of the connector and just plugging them into the main board. The way you plug the pins in doesn't seem to matter, or I just got lucky. Kind of tacky but it works.

I have an Anet 8A 3-d printer in which I used your product on, and I haven't been able to get a decent print from this hot end. Not sure if it is due to the hot end being made of brass or not. going back to metal hot end which came with the original model.

It was God sent. I have an old printer and did not want to buy a new one. It is working better now than before it broke. this saved me 200 bucks on a new printer. it's worth a try!