CABLEDECONN DisplayPort 8K DP 1.4 Switch Bi-Direction 8K@30Hz 4K@120Hz Splitter Converter for Multiple Source and displays.

You need 3 hdmi cables. 1 hdmi cable plugs into the device OUT and plugs into the one monitor you choose to share. Two hdmi cables plug in to the device IN, 1 from each pc. THEN you press the button on the device and it toggles the display from pc1 to pc2. Press device button again and it toggles the display from pc2 to pc1, and so on. Works perfectly. Note: the device needs power so the device comes with a usb cable that you plug in to an open usb port on your pc to power the device. Works great. I recommend.

There's been a lot of confusion in the review whether it supports gsync and for my monitor (AW3821DW) it does. I connected it to my monitor and one to a D6000 dell dock for my thunderbolt devices Macbook/Laptop/Ipad etc. Running without issue now for a month. Switching is quick, make sure that you are powering the switch with a proper 5V that could be why some people are having issues.

When it works, it works great. I have no issues swapping between a MacbookpPro and a PC on a 1440p 144Hz GSync monitor.Unfortunately, I've gone through three of these in the past few months. The biggest issue they have is that after a few months, the screen will start to flicker and if you're really lucky the screen will randomly turn off and only a reboot fixes it. It's mind boggling.I've tried everything. It isn't a driver or cable or power issue. It's the switch. I tried this on another setup in the house and get the same behavior. Works for a few minutes/hours, but at any given moment the display that the switch is plugged into goes black and doesn't recognize any input from the switch. I also tried removing the switch and using the input directly - no issues! But the second that I use it the flickering and black screens crop back up.Expect to buy more than one if you go with this! Unfortunately every other switch of this kind on Amazon has the same issue. This specific one lasts a few weeks longer

I bought two of these and a switching USB hub to create a cheap multimonitor KVM setup for around $100 (vs. dual-link KVMs starting at $250+ and easily hitting $500 for a decent quality one, and those don't necessarily support DP1.3+). This makes it easy for me to switch each monitor, and the peripherals, between my work and home machines while WFH.Quality-wise the device has a metal case and feels solid. I plan on mounting mine to the back of my monitor, but haven't quite worked that out how yet (possibly command strips but one monitor has a more curved surface that will make that difficult).Switching requires the physical press of a button and there doesn't appear to be any alternatives. I'm tempted to open mine up to see how easy it would be to wire another microswitch so they can be relocated anywhere. Power is provided via a USB to common D/C power plug adapter (none of the data ports are connected so you can't use USB to switch it).You need to provide your own DP cables.On the work machine I'm using the built in DP ports on the motherboard.I'm my personal machine I have an EVGA 2080Ti.Monitors are:- Asus XB271HU connected to DP switch "Alpha" (2560x1440@144Hz GSync)- Dell 2412m connected to DP switch "Bravo" (1920x1200@60Hz)- Dell 2412m directly connected to my personal machineCables are important. Initially I was using 6ft cables everywhere (DP1.3 I think?), and had flickering / noise on the 1440p monitor periodically, and regularly while gaming. IIRC They recommend staying under 10ft total, so I swapped out the monitor to switch cables with 3ft versions and that almost completely resolved the issues.Cables:- Between monitors and switch: 3ft DP1.4, specifically: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B079736SZL- Between home PC and switch: 6ft DP 1.4, specifically: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B00K2E4S8Y- Between work PC and switch: 10ft DP 1.3(?), specifically: https://smile.amazon.com/gp/product/B06XS4Q8MC (I already owned these and they are no longer available; I haven't had issues, but if I saw some I would buy more of the 6ft CableMatters ones I link above)So regarding the issues I mentioned before. When I switched to the 3ft cables to run to the monitors I saw almost all issues go away. I periodically--that is, maybe once a day, probably less--have the signal flicker and my GSync monitor goes black for a second then comes back and everything is fine. It hasn't bothered me enough to look into it further. The older U2412m hasn't had any issues.When switching between the monitors it is effectively unplugging the monitor from the device, which works great for me. I can have between 1 and 3 monitors dedicated to my personal machine, and 1 or 2 monitors for the work machine.The only other weird callout I have is that one of the two I bought defaults to input 1, and the other defaults to input 2. I've tried various combinations of plugged in devices and powering the switch off and on and nothing seems to change this. I've posted the question and hopefully the manufacturer responds.Pros:- No issues once I followed the manufacturers guidelines, though I'm not trying to run 8K and I bet I would have problems with that based on my experience. But it fits my needs and I was reasonably certain it would from reading the reviews before I bought it.- Switches fairly quickly (I'd say within a second, maybe two, though I haven't timed it), and Windows is quick to detect the new monitor and adjust the desktop of the new machine (it also does it's best to move Windows back to where they were, though this isn't perfect...but I can't judge this device for that problem)- Indicator light is a blue LED and is quite visible- Cables clip in solidly and feel secure with no flex or wiggle. D/C power connected feels much more secure than a micro USB would- I'm powering them from my monitors USB ports so they turn off when I turn off the monitorCons:- Need to press a physical switch to adjust input- Bright blue indicator could be annoying in a dark room, but easy to cover with electrical tape- I get the odd signal synchronization issue on my GSync monitor causing it to effectively lose signal and then get it back over a split second. This happens at most once a day.- No way to set the default input and one is defaulting to 1 while the other is defaulting 2Caveats:- Read the reviews before you buy one and you should be able to figure out if this will work for your monitors / setup- Doesn't appear to be any out of the box way of using a remotely mounted switch, so you'll want to keep it in arms reach on your desk or behind a monitor

I'm using a 6 foot cable going from my GPU to the switch and 3 foot cables to each monitor, switching between 3440x1440 180Hz and 2560x1440 165Hz without issue.

It's very important to know that this switch doesn't function like the monitor part of a KVM switch. A KVM switch fakes the presence of the monitor to the devices not actually displaying, so that they don't know the monitor is not there. This is more like unplugging the monitor and plugging it into the other device - the computer being switched away from registers a disconnect event and the desktop will reconfigure. I have a PC with a GTX 1660 Ti with 3 DP monitors, and a Mac Mini that I usually use through TeamViewer. But sometimes I need to see the Mac boot or I want to use it directly with its own keyboard and mouse, so I used this to switch between the PC and Mac on one of the monitors (a Dell 27" with only one DP port). So when I switched to the Mac, the PC registered a disconnect event and reconfigured the desktop without the 3rd monitor, and any windows on the 3rd monitor would move to the other 2. Also, if the Mac booted with the monitor switched to the PC, it thought it was headless and came up at 1280x1024. All a bit frustrating and so I ultimately have returned the device. If they can make a version of this thing that works like a KVM and fake the EDID to each device, it would be perfect, since true hi-res DP KVMs are very expensive. I ended up buying a mini-DP to Dual-Link DVI adapter that lets me use the other hi-res input on the monitor, and I'll switch the display from PC to Mac that way.