Creality Premium 1.75 mm PLA 3D Printing Filament (Carbon Fiber)

It a a high quality carbon fibre filament. I don't face any problem while printing with this filament. It has a great surface finish.

Thanks for Amazon 👍

Good quality pla as mentioned, I am very satisfied with 3idea Technology's product and their after service, yes they give after service too.

Please don't buy this filament the print quality is very poor and the price is too high waste of money.

È la prima volta che uso questo tipo di filamento, sono veramente soddisfatto dei risultati

Excellent Bed Adhesion, layers Adhesion Mechanical Strength, and look. Overall it is an excellent Filament, and easy to work with. Usually I print at 280C° for the nozzle temperature and 90° for the bed temperature.

Estoy realizando un proyecto para construir un telescopio y he probado ya con bastantes materiales técnicos: ASA, PETG con fibra de carbono, Nylon con fibra de carbono, PLA con fibra de carbono. Este filamento Priline de policarbonato con fibra de carbono los supera a todos. Es bastante rígido, sin llegar a la rigidez del PLA, pero es un material casi indestructible. He intentado partir una pequeña pieza de prueba de 4 mm de grosor con todas mis fuerzas, y no he tenido narices de romperla, se dobla un poco al hacer fuerza pero recupera totalmente su posición plana cuando paro. La impresión es también fantástica. Nada de warping, sin grumos, sin atascos, y produce un acabado super suave. Para quién pueda estar interesado, estos son mis settings: -Impresora Artillery Genius -Nozzle de 0,4 de acero endurecido (importante para evitar abrasión) -Cama caliente a 100º C (uso un cristal de borosilicato con clips) -Hotend a 255º C -Altura de capa 0,2 mm -Velocidad de impresión 40 mm/s -Ventilador de capa al 50% Le pongo 4 estrellas porque el pedido tarda en llegar, en mi caso 15 días.

Don’t buy this, it’s can melt in 90c°y easy, it’s just petg-cf not pc-cf how it’s say. Save money and just buy other brand becomes it’s laying about filament and it’s overpriced.

This filament does take some time to dial in. Be patient. Once you have it dialed in, you'll produce some of the nicest, epic looking, engineering grade parts. After printed and cooled, the parts can be drilled and tapped without any issues with threads warping or pulling out. I am printing on a AnyCubic Kobra Max. I had to modify my printer to print well. But everything I had to do was WELL worth the time and effort. After figuring out my settings in Cura, this filament prints like butter. Thing you need to be successful: - High Temp Nozzle: I tried hardened steel at first and it worked 'ok'. However when I upgraded to a Diamondback nozzle - that was the game changer in quality, reliability and repeatability. - Nozzle Size: Use a larger nozzle size. I started with a 0.6mm nozzle when I started, like the requirements state. If you use anything smaller it will clog. Even the 0.6mm clogged from time to time. I was also still getting inconsistencies with the print using . So I ponied up another $100 and got a 0.8mm nozzle. Prints were MUCH more consistent without losing too much quality. Also it prints faster with a larger nozzle. - Bi-Metal Heat Break: I upgraded my heat break to a hybrid copper-titanium. This helps regulate the temperatures better. Which helps with the next item.... - Bowden Tubes: If you do not have a direct drive extruder, you need to upgrade this. As this filament prints at a higher temp, this tube has a higher heat resistance than the OEM tube. This will prevent melted plastic for clogging the inside of the tube and keep the temperatures down where the bowden tube enters the heat break. I purchased a Capricorn brand bowden tube. Change all the fittings that it comes with as the tube is a slightly different size and these fittings hold onto the tube better. Also make sure to install a lock on them. Either use a zip tie, or what I did was print some locks that can be found on Thingiverse under 'Meister Werks' user name. - Build Plate: Using a PEI build plate works perfect for this material. To prevent warping, use a 5-10mm brim around the circumference of the printing part. You will have to remove and file off the lip around the bottom, but it's fairly easy with a corse file and/or a deburring tool. Settings - Layer thickness depends of the level of detail and size of the print - Small number for small items, larger number for larger items. - Initial Layer: 0.15-0.2mm - Reg Layer: 0.3 Small Prints - 0.4mm Larger Prints - Line Width: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Infill Line: 1.2 - w/0.8mm nozzle - Normal Flow: 95-96% - Infill Flow: 91-93% - Print Cooling: *NONE* (Using print cooling will warp your print and will not adhere to the build plate) - Normal Print Speed: 35-40mm/sec - Initial Print Speed: 25-30mm/sec (Play with the speeds. Sometimes you have to slow it down for smaller items. I made 2 profiles for small and large prints) - Print Acceleration: 4000mm/sec *** Any settings I didn't mention, Don' use or just leave off. See photos with settings.