RioRand 350W 6-60V 3-Phase PWM DC Brushless Motor Speed Controller with Hall Sensor – for 120° Electric Angle Brushless DC Motors, DIY Robotics, Electric Tools & PLC Systems

used an excellent guide from "thrifty tool shed" on YouTube for this retrofit. I mounted mine a bit differently and used a reemer to create a few small vent holes for the heatsink. I also had to file a little off the corner of the heatsink to make it fit where I put it. There are some plastic "ribs" that need to be cut out as well as one screw mounting hole trimmed to clear a capacitor. I only retained use of the side knob and main trigger, no need for the turbo button. I also added a 20A inline fuse. the response takes a bit more trigger travel to kick the motor on, but max speed is still there. worked absolutely amazing for drying my car and blowing leaves. No issues with heat so far and after using it for 20min non stop full blast, battery light still at max bars. this is a very cost effective way of fixing a broken Ego 56V blower, as long as you can solder and make a few plastic and filing tweaks you're good to go.

Product came quickly. Potentiometer included. Works as it described. Make sure not to cross polarity. When connecting device. Thank you

This controller ran great out of the box for me. It drove a 24V 6A motor with ease. No heat issues and high torque. If you're going to use the PWM mode to control the speed, make sure you remove the jumper next to the speed pot on the controller board. If it weren't for a couple of gotchas, I would have given it 5 stars. Gotchas: The controllers power down in PWM mode after a few seconds connected to +5V power, and then they don't re-enable. It seems that the PWM channel is very sensitive to noise and so something causes the controller to shut down. I could "wake" it back up by wiggling the wire connected to the +5V power to the controller. If you are using an Arduino, instead of connecting the 5V terminals on the controller to a +5V power source, connect it to one of the Arduino's digital pins instead. These pins are at TTL logic levels (+5V) and they provide enough power to supply the logic on the controller. You can then toggle the pin on and off to enable and disable the controller. When the motor is stopped or you want to stop the motor, set the pin to LOW so it clears the controller of any internal shutdown mechanism. When the motor needs to move, set the pin to HIGH and the controller logic will power up and resume. The brake isn't really a brake. It just cuts the power to the motor and has no holding torque. There's no power that goes to stop any momentum from the motor, so the motor stops itself through friction. This is way cheaper than a lot of controllers out there and I think it's a great value for prototyping mechanical setups without having to spend much money!

I have the Hall Sensor version. Spent a lot of time finding the correct phase wiring order. But hardest part was getting the PWM to work. First: The jumper is needed, mine was just solder pads so I soldered pins and put jumper. Refer to the picture linked to this product. Second: The tiny 5 pin pads on the same side as the jumper, the Vcc and Gnd are same as the screw terminal (for pot). You will need to solder a pin to the one marked "P". I used the screw terminals for Vcc and Gnd (caution, they are 5v). PWM connection to the "P" pin and you are good to go. I am using SEEED nRF52840 and it is 3.3v but it has a 5v pin, I power it off the motor driver and the PWM works great with only 3.3v output from digital pin. I'm running at 20k PWM freq. Only 4 stars as no documentation and a lot of trial and error to run down the wiring. Ok, I changed to 5 stars as I found that the middle pin on the side with my last picture with clip is "PULSE" output. I used interrupt to count the pulses and then divided by 12 to get one revolution.

There are 3 problems with this product and I ordered twice. 1. Both have defect on small capacitor (100uF) at the edge, the first one one lead detached from the board and the second one totally detached. I have to resoldered and replaced. You can see from the pictures here, replaced capacitor (1) 2. When I tested the 1st one it is fine but too hot, found out heat sink is badly installed and surface of all the transistors are not flat. No silicone grease on it, i have to add it. 3. For the 2nd board, it runs rough and found out there is missing/displaced resistor BH (the feedback B). See the close up picture. It is cheap but don't expect to be used immediately. And how amazon handle this board probably the cause of detached capacitor 100uF at the edge.

I bought two of these. One works fine. The other one, PWM does not work. Unfortunately I bought this last year, but just doing the project now. I am assuming if RioRand is reading this, I lost my support? Or replacement window?

Note - many of the questions/answers displayed for this item are actually for the Hall Sensor version so please be careful and don't assume all those answers apply to this module. This listing is for the "Hall-less" version, meaning it's for controlling a 3-phase DC motor that only has 3 wires and does NOT use hall sensor monitoring. Some errors I noted in the Q/A section: - some Q/A indicate the module has "soft-start" - it does not, but see my easy hack to add it below* - some say to "remove the jumper" to use the external analog speed control - there is no jumper on this module, just be sure to set the on-board speed pot to zero (full ccw) - some say this module will not work with a Hall-less motor - that is WRONG, it is specifically designed to work with hall-less motors. - there are several different wiring diagrams shown in the listing, but the one that has pictures of the motor and power supply is what I used and seems to be correct. I used this controller to operate the fan motor from an EGO leaf blower that was trashed because the internal controller died. My fan motor has 3 leads - red, blue, and yellow, which connect to the controller terminals red to red, blue to blue, and yellow to green. I'll use this fan blower with some 18v cordless tool batteries as a sweeper in my shop and patio, and 18v yields plenty of air flow for that purpose. * I made a simple modification to perform a soft-start function, using a 470uf capacitor and a 1k resistor (see photo and video). Some experimenting proved that the external potentiometer speed control reaches maximum motor speed at about 4.6v, which can be achieved by placing a 1k resistor from the 5v terminal to the analog speed input. By adding the capacitor, the voltage on the speed input slowly rises when power is applied, so that the motor speed ramps up from zero to full speed in about a second, greatly reducing the strain on the power supply, controller, and the motor. If you want a slower start-up you can increase the size of the capacitor, but leave the resistor at 1k. If you increase the resistance above 1000Ω the motor will never reach full speed.

So far it works well. I need to address the direction control on the Hall model. The motor will run in a couple different phase wiring orders, if you have it in the wrong order the reverse direction switch does not work. Once you fix that, it reverses perfectly.

These motor controllers work well with big DC motors. You can only run one motor off of each one. You do not have to use all of the pins to control the device with arduino or esp32. R_ls and L_ls can be left with no connection. The enable pins can simply have 5v applied directly or can be switched. The only thing that might be of concern is the heat sink is on the other side of the board from the mosfets. I really don't think that they will dissipate any heat the unit heats up under high load.

es funcional y cumple con su cometido sin embargo al arranque tiene un pequeño retraso de 1 segundo

Used on a hoverboard motor and works well.

Really simple and good to use

Works well. It does get hot so I'm using a small fan. Running a rad fan on one and coolant pump on the other.