Irritrol2400T Globe NPT Threaded Connection, 1"

Was a great replacement valve and worked without any fuss.

Replaced a frost damaged unit.

I believe I have slight leak in a 20+ year old 2400T, and buying a valve gives both replaceable parts at less cost. My system uses 12 of these valves, so I purchased 2 to have a spare when and if I need another one. My system has had only two valve failures in about 25 years. The first was a housing leak caused by poor draining and freeze up, this one is caused by diaphragm failure. All this adds up to, is use them because they are very reliable and, if necessary, they are rugged and easy to work on.

Disassembled this unit, and use the parts to reassemble it within the housing of the previous and failed units. Everything was up and running super quick, perfect fix

While out of state visiting family, one of my six irrigation control valves got stuck "on" and released 19,140 gallons of water via sprinkler zone 3 in ~1.5 days before a neighbor cut the water to my system. Once I returned home I inspected the valves and found a 1/2" pebble underneath one of the valves which likely played a role in it malfunctioning. I then removed the pebble and replaced all six valves to obviate a recurrence. Some notes:- I'm the second owner of a house that came with a Virtualrain 27666 sprinkler controller (company is now obsolete so no website or customer support exists), but the sprinkler heads receive water from PVC pipes connected to six Irritrol Systems 2400T valves (two in one in-ground green irrigation control box and four in another). These valves are powered by 24 VAC (low-voltage) from the controller which steps down 120 VAC (high-voltage) via a transformer that plugs into a garage outlet. Before performing maintenance on the valves, I turned off the controller and sprinkler water supply. I did that by turning a handle perpendicular to the water flow in the basement of my house. Another option was to turn the ballcock perpendicular to the water flow below the external pressure relief valve assembly.- If the valves hadn't actuated, then I would have diagnosed a solenoid issue. The solenoid is the electrical component of the valve and looks like a D-sized battery. When my controller's timer actuates it sends 24 VAC to the solenoid. Within the solenoid is a coil that magnetizes and lifts a hex plunger at the bottom of it. Once the plunger is lifted water flows through the valve to the sprinkler zone's heads. Once the cycle is over, power is cut to the solenoid and the plunger falls and stops the water flow.- Since one of my sprinkler zone heads was stuck "on" and didn't turn off after the programmed cycle was over, then it was a mechanical issue with the valve. At this point the sprinkler zone couldn't be shut off via the controller, even if it was unplugged and the battery removed! Mechanical issues include a worn valve diaphragm (recommend replacing every 15 years), clogged thin tube that feeds water through the diaphragm and cap to the flow control tube (juxtaposed with the solenoid's plunger), or debris (e.g., a pebble) within the valve.- To replace the solenoid just untighten it counterclockwise. Snip the two wires atop the solenoid with wire cutters. One colored (e.g., red/green/brown/black/blue/orange) 18-gauge wire connects with the controller's 24 VAC power supply. The other wire connects to the common (ground) wire which is white (connect one wire from ALL solenoids to the common wire!). Use a crimp tool to strip the common wire (copper) ~1/2-inch. Twist new solenoid wire (mine came pre-stripped) around the common wire, then insert into a weatherproof wire nut (they have silicone within) and twist the same way.- Instead of cutting out a PVC sprinkler manifold (series of valves) then having to glue a new one in, I just replaced the "guts" of the malfunctioning valve with the same OEM guts (i.e., solenoid, manual ON/OFF switch, bleed screw (allows for manual operation), flow control, cap, threaded bonnet, spring, diaphragm, seat seal). I also used a large paperclip to manually clean any debris obstructing the existing hollow tube.- Once complete, slowly turn on water to your sprinkler system then slowly turn the external pressure relief valve ballcock parallel to water supply and open the exit ballcock to the sprinkler lines. Then plug the controller's power supply into an outlet, turn on the controller, and run a 1-minute test cycle for all sprinkler zones ensuring all sprinkler heads pop up and spray.- Fwiw, I spent $136 total for six irrigation control valves and $10 for a box of 25 small weatherproof wire nuts. Thus my total cost for parts was $146. It took me ~ one hour labor to replace all six valves. The only difficulty I had with the valves was unscrewing four of the six bonnets as they were secured very tightly.- Btw, at the bottom of my Virtualrain 27666 controller/timer is a terminal control box with different colored wires connected to push tabs. COM1 or COM2 is the white common (ground) wire. Other colored wires tell me which zones they are connected to. So if you know which zone is malfunctioning, you can identify it at the controller by its wire color then trace it to the irrigation control box. Then you can just fix that valve rather than all of them if you want.