Tilting Milling Table 7x5inch

The Good: As with most offshore-made items like this, the cast iron is pretty decent and the ground surfaces are flat and true, at least within my ability to measure it. That means it's accurate enough for what I do with it. For a basic home shop tilt table, it's ok and the price is right. The Ungood: The castings are nasty. Be careful on the bottom. It's a ground surface, and the edges are sharp enough to cut you. I had to take some time and break them over with a file. They're sharp right out of the box. The tilt mechanism is rough and the adjustment is very coarse. If you think you're just going to dial the angle right in, forget it. Use some other measurement method. Once you get it, tightening the lock screws will hold it. There's an angle scale on the side, and a barely legible witness mark, and I would take that with a grain of salt. The tee slots will accept a 3/8" screw, but not the tee nut that typically accompanies a set of hold down clamps of that size. I used a 3/8" hex nut, and it worked fine for what I was doing.

The worm gear angle adjustment thing is rubbish, poorly conceived and indifferently executed. Remove four screws, take it off, and consign it to a landfill. Without the gear arrangement, the table moves through slightly more than a +/- 45 degree arc, as expected. Once the tilt angle is set (by conventional means), the clamping arrangement, though basic, is sturdy enough for a solid hold. The rest of the table is perfectly serviceable. Mine rocked slightly on a surface plate. The culprit was a small burr on the corner of one of the mounting surfaces. I knocked that off with maybe two strokes of a file, after which all was well. The top plate of the table sat on the surface plate as it should. I made no further measurements of flatness, as this is adequate for my shop. The description is a bit cryptic about mounting provisions. I measure the slots in the 7x5" table at .410" (10.4mm) wide, NOT 12mm as mentioned in the description. Elsewhere it says 10mm, but really, numbers like this should agree. It looks like the slots will fit M8 T-nuts (not included). My measurements - in inches and (mm) - are attached. The slots in the mounting feet are a bit narrower, at .380", so 3/8" studs should clear OK.

I purchase several things on Amazon and was giving pretty in-depth reviews. From this point on, here's the new agenda…. if it works as advertised, is well made, meets or exceeds the description, is a value, and arrives in a fair amount of time, it will get a "star rating" equal to what my expectations were/are. If it doesn't meet these criteria, then I will most definitely and descriptively tell the short comings of the products and you as a consumer will not have to go through the trouble of buying the product without some background knowledge. If the sell pulls that item and relists under another description, I will put the exact same review on the seller's feedback page. Sellers have done this a couple of times in the past, and I was true to my word then as well as now. DR

10" X 7" As someone else said, this table will not swing the full 90 deg. Out of the box, mine did only about +/- 42 deg. There are a couple reasons for this. The first is that the worm gear & bearing caps for the adjustment crank mechanism interfere with the mill table top on to which the device is to be mounted. There are two simple ways to fix this particular problem. One is to simply remove the mechanism (worm gear & two bearing caps - 4 hex cap screws). After removing this it would swing about +/- 46 deg, and I could position it without much difficulty. The other fix may be to add a spacer under the mounting base to allow clearance for the gear mechanism. I think it would require about a 1/2 inch spacer (and of course it would need to be as flat & parallel as possible). The second is the tilt clamping guide blocks on each side interfere with the ends of the channel cut into the mounting base. This can be resolved by grinding or filing the base (or possibly the clamp guides). With this, and the above, it now swings about +/- 48 deg. In my opinion, the "...Adjustable Crank Handle..." is a nice idea, but poorly designed. The gear turns fairly rough, and the crank handle interferes with the tilting top each turn of the handle. It seems a bit like an afterthought, something that was added onto an existing piece of equipment without a real good plan about how exactly it would work. Why would someone design a tilt table with only +/- 42 deg swing (instead of a full +/- 45 deg??), and then claim "...0 - 90 deg Adjustable..." in the description? The base on mine also wobbles on the mill table top, I measured about 0.013" with feeler gauge. After clamping the base to the mill I found the 10" length of the top surface to be parallel to the mill within about 0.002". I also suggest re-squaring the base (to the mill table) after setting it to the required angle since it does change by a few thousandths. I am rating this at 3 stars because it does what I need it to do, but only after making some changes and adjustments. The cost ($130) is what saves it from a lower rating - if I had paid $300 - $400 for it it would have been unacceptable. It is solid in construction and fairly well machined (with exceptions noted above). The top surface is flat and surface finish looks good. The degree indicator is pretty close (just don't trust it for real precision work).

Great for an imported table.

When the tensioning bolts are even the slightest bit loose there is about 1/4 inch of shift or “play” in the plate. This means two things #1 the tensioning bolts are the only point of failure protecting your work. #2 practically all of the torque you are applying to the workpiece is being transferred to the tensioning bolts. These two issues lead to a third, much more significant issue. The 1/4 inch shift/play in the tabletop when the bolts are loosened, combined with the only way to lock in the angle being to tighten the tensioning bolts, leads to somewhat of a back and forth. You pretty much wind up holding the table at the angle it needs to be while trying to tighten the bolts enough so they don’t shift during work. This would actually be an easier/faster process without the worm gear at all.

Needs a file taking to a few rough edges, but it does work well.

works good fairly accurate

Vorab ein Dankeschön an alle die vor mir den Artikel beschrieben haben. Nun zu den Fakten : Ich habe mir folgende Frage gestellt : Was erwarte ich von dem Artikel ? Einen Basisbausatz, den ich selber verfeinere, oder etwas das Herrman Schmidt, o SuburbanTool entspricht?? Ich habe also Bewusst entschieden dass es für mich lediglich ein Basisbaukasten sein wird. Angekommen, ausgepackt und siehe da meine Erwartung ist erfüllt. Ich muss nix selber in 3D konstruieren, Drucken, Eisen Giessen, Nacharbeiten etc. Die benannten Probleme mit der verringerten Neigungsfähigkeit sind adhoc vorhanden, leicht erkennbar und in meinem Fall in 10 min behoben. Wenn man die untere schräge Kante des Nutentisch in seiner Ebene verlängert, wird alles klarer (foto mit stahtlineal ). Dass hierzu noch der Vierkant von der Gewindestange übersteht wird sich eh bald erledigen :) Nun aber zu den Details : Das Design ist gelinde gesagt lächerlich, eine "Handkurbel" zu verwenden die je nach Neigungsseite entweder den Nutentisch behindert, oder die Kurbel nicht entfernt werden kann etc. Da hat wohl jemand die Nacht vor dem Design ein wenig zu sehr gefeiert :) . Die Bilder zeigen ohne weitere Beschreibung wo das ursprüngliche Problem mit der verringerten Neigungsfähigkeit liegt. Und der nächste Schritt auf meiner Seite ist die Wurm / Gewindestange zu modifizieren. Vierkant kommt ab, auf beiden Kopfenden eben Plandrehen, so dass die Enden aussen Plan mit den Kugellagern abschließen. Dann in beide Enden Löcher bohren, Gewinde für ne M8 Innensechkantschraube schneiden, Loctite, M8 /15er Schrauben in beiden Enden , cest ca. Dann kann ich von BEIDEN Seiten mit nem Sechkant den Tisch neigen. Entgraten, einschleifen etc, mach ich erst nachdem ich alles auf der Messplatte mal geprüft hab. . Ergo -- Wer nicht über die Mittel verfügt die Anpassungen selber durchzuführen sollte echt überlegen ob die Nachteile überwiegen. Wer allerdings Geschick und wenigstens nen Winkelschliefer hat, kann bereits was brauchbares daraus zaubern. Es ist aus meiner Sicht wirklich nur für kleine Aufgaben geeignet. Aber für den Preis kann und darf man halt auch nicht erwarten das der Artikel für den Einsatz in Messlaboren o Feinmechanik gedacht ist. Hoffe dass es jemandem hilft oder zumindest eine Anregung zur Problemlösung gibt :)

It works price and quality is not bad

Percage à angle sur certaines pièces