400W Adjustable Multi Speaker Treble/Bass 2 Unit Audio Frequency Divider 2 Way Crossover Filters Updated Version

I recently bought a pair of 30 year old Realistic Minimus 25 speakers. Two-way, real walnut veneer, 40 watts capable. I had a similar pair in the early '80's. really liked the sound quality back then, so I bought based on what I remembered. When I hooked these up to my Pioneer SX-636, I was immediately disappointed. I thought for sure I remembered how these sounded. I could clearly hear that mid-range was almost gone; they sounded muffled. Bass was kind of there, but not as rich and defined as I should have expected. Highs? Super "tinny". Although I didn't spend much for these ($25 off eBay), I was disappointed. Then thinking that the crossover capacitors might be at fault, I pulled the woofer to get access to the crossover. What did I find? A simple RC crossover network built with a single resistor and capacitor. For these speakers, the woofer is rated from 30Hz to 6 KHz). Seemed easy to replace. Hate to say, first impulse was to search for "2 way crossover' on Amazon. I came upon these. Most complaints for these were for the PC board screening being in Chinese characters. The user-selectable crossover points (by way of Berg jumpers) suggested a "best" configuration of Jumpers A-B and C I searched for a bit and found other crossovers with English screening. I determined that the as-shipped configuration was the default* * * * * * * * * | |_| |_| |_| | D C B A |-------------------------------------------Bottom of circuit board.I cut out the old resistor and capacitor and wired these crossover in (had to extend the woofer wires). I also added some additional cotton batting inside the speaker (Walmart) to provide a bit of acoustic separation between the woofer and tweeter (these are non-ported speakers).Hooked them back up to the receiver and started an MP3 on my iPod. I was immediately blown away by the sound. Holy shit! These were NOT the same speakers I just bought. Bass was solid. Clearly the low frequencies were being sent to the tweeter; prior, they sounded like they were blown. Not the case!. Turned up the volume; they cranked!!! Bass was solid. Voice totally visible (prior muffled), Tweeters functioning as they should.I 100% totally recommend these. although the actual crossover frequencies are not listed, the instructions recomend removing and installing jumpers while listening to the speakers.

Haven't used it yet...

Unable to determine a b c or d the labels are all Chinese. This is an absolute waste of money

I have some OLD Boston Acoustic A100 Speakers. The tweeters barely worked and I wasn’t sure if the tweeters or the crossovers were shot. It turned out to be the crossovers. I thought about rebuilding the original crossovers, but the original wiring was a mess, plus the original crossovers were glued into cabinet. These ACEIRMC crossovers were affordable and easier to deal with.Of course, I don’t know the suggested crossover point of these tweeters, or the crossover point of the crossovers. I guess I was rolling the dice.The AB jumpers have four pins and I used them all. The CD jumpers have five potential pins but only use four of them. I tested the CD jumpers and the speakers sounded brightest (which is what I wanted) when I used the four pins to the right (the 2nd, 3rd, 4th and 5th pins). When it was all working, I glued the crossovers to the edge of the old crossovers.I was given these speakers in 2019 and these are the best they’ve ever sounded in my house. They’re over 40 years old (woofers replaced, tweeters original).

nice product

Installed to bypass the original crossover in old BOSE subwoofer/cube combo.Speakers are part on a whole-home 9pin integrated system and extension rooms do not get equalization. Bass was muddy treble weak.Installing one of these on each channel cleaned up sound remarkably!The units sent to me are in chinese but i was able to test jumpers.4pins on the left = C And D TREBLE5pins on the RIGHT = A and B BASSUSING ALL 4 jumpers in line leaving last pin on right open gave me clean bass and bright treble with rich vocals.Bass output goes into subwoofer and is limited by the original crossover whereas theTreble goes from the frequency divider directly to treble/mid BOSE CUBES.I recommend using a thicker gauge speaker wire to the bass module and a thinner guage to cubes. This will ensure the bass gets all the power from the amp first.Good luck!

Pins come off easily, noice is triggered when the volume hits medium to high and clicking sounds are also present.Useless.

Had to do a little research to convert the Chinese characters on the board to English, and jumpers A, B, C, and D referenced in the instructions aren't labeled on the board according to the Chinese-to-English conversion app I used. I put all 4 jumpers in for full range bass and treble, and am well pleased with the result.

色々ジャンパ位置差替えて聞き比べて良い結果を得られましたので☆5です価格からした十分以上に良い働きしてくれています。以前設計ソフトで設計したフルレンジ・ダブルバスレフが低域を下まで狙いすぎてミドルローが痩せて大失敗しお蔵入りになっていたのですが、その箱を8cm位輪切りにして容積を減らし更に無理やりの2ウェイ化リニューアルのためこのネットワークを使いました。結果大成功でクリアな中高域タップリと量感のある低域を得ました。ユニットは両方4Ωフルレンジなので実験でセメント抵抗を付けてインピーダンスを合わせて並列接続のツインも試してみましたがやはりお互いの中低音が干渉しあってくぐもった音になりダメでした。

amazonに掲載されているものとは別ものでした。品番は同じですが、ジャンパースイッチの配置が違います。基板から回路図を作ってみました。出荷時時にはジャンパA,B,C,Dの４つともON状態でしたが、AとBを接続すると、入力側＋からコイル、コンデンサーともにバイパスしてしまうので、低音側はフィルターなしになりますね。物は違いましたが、まあ使えるということで星３にしておきます。

中古で安く買ったD-V77というスピーカーの修理のために買いました。古いネットワークを取り外してこれに付け替えたところ、はっきりと音が良くなりました。特に5khz以上するような高音がはっきり聴こえるようになりました。逆に60hz以下の低音はあまり変わらない様に感じましたが、それはそもそもこのスピーカーが出せない帯域な気がしているので、サブウーファーの購入を検討しています。

アマゾンの写真では基板上にジャンパーの意味がプリントされているのでそれを見ればいいと思っていたのに実際届いたものはABCDと高低しか書いてないのでなんのことやらわからない。あとこれは自分の思い込みだが2個入りパッケージと思っていたのに1個入だった。2個買ったら他の類似の商品よりだいぶ高くなるのでおすすめできないので星2。だが自分は買ってしまったので仕方がない。もう一つ注文して届く間暇だし、調べたり勉強したりしてみた。（間違えていたらすみません）■高域側3.3μFと1.5μFが並列で用意されていてそれぞれジャンパーでON/OFFできる構造。つまりジャンパーピンで下記を調整できる。C: ONで3.3μFのコンデンサーを通すD: ONで1.5μFを通すカットオフ周波数C:OFF / D:OFF -> 通電せずC:ON / D:OFF 3.3μF -> 6,022Hz(8Ω)C:OFF / D:ON 1.5μF -> 13,250Hz(8Ω)C:ON / D:ON 合計4.8μF -> 4,141Hz(8Ω)■低域側ローカット用に100μFのコンデンサー(199Hz/8Ω/-3db)ハイカット用にコイル（容量不明）A:OFF / B:OFF -> ローカット:ON ハイカット:ONA:ON / B:OFF -> ローカット:OFF ハイカット:ONA:OFF / B:ON -> ローカット:ON ハイカット:OFFA:ON / B:ON -> ローカット:OFF ハイカット:OFF