Sight Tool with Heavy-Duty Construction and Rotatable Sight Prong, Sight Adjustment Tool Sight Removal Tool

First off, I am not a gunsmith or armorer, so I have limited experience. However, consensus on the inter-webs is that M&P sights are notoriously difficult to remove and replace. I wanted to put night sights on a couple M&P pistols (9L 2.0 and Shield Plus) and to be able to refine their alignment if needed. Bottom line: This tool worked, and did not damage either the new sights or the old ones, which were removed. Rear sight took an uncomfortable amount of force to turn wheel, and resulted in a slightly tender thumb. However, for the price, versatility, and result, I would not hesitate to buy again. Seems sturdy based on heft, but I have not, and will not, use this extensively. M&P 2.0 9L At first, I borrowed a friend's tool (not this tool). It worked for the rear sight, but would not work on the front sight of my M&P 9L 2.0 (5" barrel) because of the geometry of the slide and lack of a notch below the pushing block. Next, I used a brass punch and hammer to get the front sight out and new sight roughly in place. However, as you might expect, smashing something with a hammer lacked finesse and I was having trouble fine tuning the alignment of the new sight at home figured I would not have much luck at the range if I needed to do further adjustment. That's when I decided to give this tool a shot. Because the W Wiregear has that notch/cut-out below the pusher block, it worked perfectly to hold the long slide and nudge the front sight into alignment. M&P Shield Plus Next, I moved onto the Shield Plus. The front sight was relatively easy to remove and replace using the 90 degree side of the block. To hold the slide, there are 4 individual contact points that you screw down. I like that the tool has a series of lines etched in the surface that holds the slide. These lines allow you to make sure the slide is properly aligned (i.e. perpendicular to the pushing block), so you're applying force straight through the dovetail and not at an angle. However, I may have preferred the two-clamping-bar-style (like vise jaws) of my friend's tool in that (1) it did not require fiddling to get the slide aligned, and (2) did not create a pressure point on the thin material at ejection port. With the Shield, one of the pads/feet screwed down onto that thin section of the ejection port, when pushing the rear sight. I made it finger tight and did not try to really torque it down to reduce risk of future issues. Everything seems fine so far, but time will tell whether that area has been damaged or fatigued, and others may not be so lucky (e.g., because they use their ape strength and apply more force than I did). I reversed the pusher block to use the 45-ish degree side for the rear sight. The rear sight on the shield was DIFFICULT. The pusher block has large pushing surfaces, so there was no damage to the sights despite applying a lot of force. I found myself wishing for (1) a good surface to hold the tool while I cranked the wheel (I'd probably try putting the tool in a vise if I were doing it again), and (2) a larger wheel (or a nut that I could throw a wrench on to get more mechanical advantage). It worked, but my thumb was sore afterward from pushing so hard on the wheel's spindle.

This sight pusher has saved me hundreds of dollars and just as much time by allowing me to quickly install and/or properly align factory or aftermarket sights across multiple manufacturers (S&W, FN, HK, Beretta, CZ, etc.). Some sight removals (especially S&W) required a LOT of torque which resulted in multiple bouts of being struck with brass punches/hammers and this sight pusher has held up flawlessly each time. Here are some tips I've learned along the way to help protect this tool and my slides: 1.) Use CLP as needed on all threads of the tool (Helped with fine adjustments and ease of use) 2.) Use additional padding between your slide and the vice knobs to protect your slide finish while ensuring a secure hold 3.) For open-top slides (Beretta), use a small piece of wood to mimic the height of a typical slide (see included photo) If you're thinking of getting this, go for it. It paid for itself after ~2 installs, not including the many instances of zeroing in factory sights that were slightly off out of the box.

Worked as advertised for my Glock. Top slide stop can accomodate round or square slides, but could not get it to rotate. Not sure if it's the design or just the one I got.

Worked great. Had an old Sig P220 and wanted to change the night sights. This got them off pretty easily; it did take some strength turning the handle, but ended up working perfect. Definitely recommend.

Tried another at first.Don’t waste money on other’s,this is the real deal.I replaced sights on Springfield hell cat pro with this .This is well made and tough.It will do the job!

I'm not a gunsmith, so I cannot compare this to a professional level device. It is a combination of seemingly quite good design and is let down by sub standard build quality and somewhat sloppy tolerances. The 4 X-axis knobs that hold the workpiece in place work well, and have rubber anti-mar on their ends to protect the slide. I don't know how well/long those will last. The Z axis hold-down just didn't hold very well with the Ruger LC9s that I was working on - the (apparently) Delrin clamp surface was halfway into the ejection port so the workpiece kept tilting. I think this product could use at least one more hold-down for the Z-axis. The two large thumb-nuts that adjust the Z-axis height were threaded off perpendicular, so they wobbled when tightening. The most egregious problem, in my mind, is the actual pusher carriage that moves in the X axis - there's too much slop where the carriage rides in the upper part of the tool, so a stiff and hard to push sight - such as was on this firearm - causes the carriage assembly to tilt out of square - and then the front of the workpiece is pushed down because of inadequate Z-axis hold down. The barely comprehensible instructions suggest using a drift against the side of the carriage when working with tight sights - and that suggestion does work. The base of the tool is nicely designed to drop into a vice when its needed to hold things steady. With all that said, it got the job done and is probably fine for a tyro like me. The manual was the absolute WORST "Chinglish" I've seen in *years*!!