AmdroFire Ant Killer for Lawns 5 LB

Good ant control that last a long time. Easy to use a the ants seem to like it also.

This has worked well for me for years. It does completely kill a mound within 2-3 days, but it's NOT a contact poison; the ants have to eat it for it to work, so be patient.Sadly, none of the neighbors treat their own yards, so our yard is constantly being re-infested. So I keep after them...***WARNING***!!! --- squirrels and birds will see it (it's bright yellow...) and eat it; I don't know what it does to them, but it's best to put something over it so other animals don't see it. Leave openings, of course, so the ants can get at it. --- I have no idea whether other animals eat it, and I don't know what it might do to pets or wildlife, so always use some sort of weighted cover to keep other animals away from it.***ALSO*** - don't store the bag outside, because I've seen squirrels biting their way into the bag to eat the stuff. I don't want dead squirrels littering the yard, so I keep it in the garage. A small metal locking bin should also work... If it has a scent, I can't tell, but apparently, squirrels, and maybe raccoons???, seem to be able to smell anything that will fit down their gullets. So just be aware of that and store it safely.Basically, what I do is dump some on a mound or area where the nasty little things are trying to accumulate a mound, and poke at the area with a LONG thin dowel or branch or whatever to make them mad; they'll pour out and start biting anything that doesn't "belong" there, including the granules. They can see the color and they seem to love the flavor <!> because they quickly shift form attack mode into gathering mode.And I need to emphasize:use a LONG stick to stir up the nest and get them going after the bait.You do NOT want them to make their way up the poker and go after you!!!

First, this is not a quick treatment to get rid of an individual mound. If you only have a mound or two I would use the orthene powder that doesn’t need to be watered in. It is quick and effective for a single mound. This product is to treat a large area for long lasting relief from fire ants. Last summer I had multiple fire ant bites every time I did yard work. A year later I still have scars. We live on small acreage in a semi-rural area. In the past I only treated mounds. It was a losing battle as you never find them all. I had never treated a large area, but last fall I was so tired of the bites that I decided to give it a shot. I chose this bait because from what little research I did, it seemed the least toxic to pets and wildlife. I bought a few bags and spread at the higher rate for heavy infestations. I washed out my spreader first to get rid of any fertilizer residue as this can make the bait unattractive to ants. It took several days, but within 2 to 3 weeks there were no more ants. I did another application at the lower rate in the spring, and I have not been bitten by a single ant this year. It amazes me as I was bitten probably hundreds of times by fire ants last year. I just saw my first mound since the treatment last spring, so zapped it with a quick mound treatment, but plan to do another application of this Amdro at the lower rate before long. I figure I will do this treatment a couple times a year going forward. It is soooo worth it. Now if there were only something this effective for wasps….

First off, I use about 25lbs of Amdro every year on my farm, so I'm speaking from experience. It's great when it works but not all fire ants (and look alike ants) were created the same.My first observation is this stuff always works if you get enough bait on and around the mound and the ants accept it as food. I usually disturb a mound and the sprinkle bait on the mount and around it to get bait out in the feeding zone about a foot outside of the mount perimeter.The ants rarely accept the bait in early Spring so wait until the ground warms up enough to plant corn.About 80% of the ant hill colonies will see the bait as food and can be seen moving the particles of Amdro into the nest. I have seen as much as a quarter cup of the bait disappear in about 20 minutes on some mounds. The other 20% won't touch the stuff, and there is where a different approach is needed.I have tried using a rake handle to poke a hole in the mound to allow me to pour Amdro into the hole. The theory being the ants will repair the nest and have to contend with the material in doing so, maybe deciding to eat it. That approach has had sporadic success but by no means 100%. I still have to use Bifenthrin on the stubborn hills.Bottom line, it only takes one grain of this material to kill the colony, if the ants accept it as food and if they feed it to the queen(s). Note that some colonies have more than one queen.

I’ve used Amdro for years with great results. I sprinkle Amdro around the perimeter of my property, around the foundation of my house and a strip or two across the yard twice a year and I never have ants.

Putting this out every 3 months has cleared my yard and garden of fire ants.

I’ve used Ambro for many many years and it’s always done the job in ridding my yard of ants. My experience has been that if I catch the mound early I get better results overall, I kill the entire mound and less likely any survivors escape to build another near by. This bag goes along away and is a good value because you don’t have to use a lot each time. I sprinkle 1/4 cup on a mound and the ants do the rest.