DEWENWILS Wireless Light Switch Kit - No Wiring, 10A/1000W, 100 Ft RF Range, Remote Control for Ceiling Lights, Fans, Lamps

This works really well. I'm using it with the switch about 9-10 feet away from where the receiver is mounted in the electric box. Installation was fairly straightforward, but it took a little effort to get the unit tucked up into the electric box.

When we were renovating our home, we thought we had planned the lighting well and didn’t see the need for additional fixtures above the kitchen island. But once all the furniture was in place and the final details were finished, we quickly realized that the space felt a little dim. The extra lighting would have made a huge difference and add an extra decor, but since the ceilings were already closed up and painted, we didn’t want to go through the hassle of opening everything up again, hiring an electrician, and dealing with the mess. That’s when we came across this wireless light switch, and honestly, it was a game-changer. Installation was incredibly easy—no wiring, no complicated setup, and best of all, no need for a professional. Within minutes, we had the light above the island up and running. It was such a relief to get the added brightness we needed without any major renovations. Now, after a few years of using it, I can confidently say that it’s still working perfectly without any issues. It responds instantly, and we haven’t had any connectivity problems. If you’re in a situation where adding a wired switch isn’t practical or you just want a simple and effective lighting solution, I highly recommend this. It saved us time, money, and stress while giving us exactly what we needed.

I used this switch for the lights in my garage attic. Originally my garage had a giant pull-down stairway with a counter weighted pulley system. The stairway took up so much floor space when it was down and it was a hassle to move it up and down. Ultimately we closed off the gigantic hole in the ceiling, which keeps the heat in my garage workspace. We built an outside stairway and put in a full-size entry door to the attic. The trick was how to turn the lights on in the attic attic - the switch and wiring is downstairs in the garage. I could have run wiring to the attic but I would have had remove a lot of pegboard that covers the garage walls to do so. This switch was the solution! Easy installation and works great. The switch in the attic works in sweltering summer heat and in sub-freezing winter temperatures. I was concerned that the Lithium battery in the switch wouldn’t work in the cold, but no issues. I installed a plastic blank-off plate where the original wall switch was located. Works great - definitely recommended.

The original bathroom light switch was inconveniently located outside the door, about four feet away, controlling both the bath light and the vanity light. It was frustrating to enter and close the door, only to realize the light was off. Also, the vanity light being turned on each time the bathroom was used was annoyingly bright in the living area. This issue was resolved with this product. After disconnecting the lights, I connected the transmitter, clearly marked with input and output sides, and the lights operated with the new remote switch. I installed the remote switches just outside the door, which has been a great improvement. Everything now functions logically. The minor issue encountered was that the transmitter easily fit into the junction box behind the vanity light, but the junction box for the bathroom light was smaller, requiring the transmitter to be placed on top of the light fixture. Luckily, there was sufficient space.

The builder of our new unit in a retirement community used lots of pocket doors to save space in the rooms. Unfortunately, they were too cheap or lazy to put light switches where there were convenient if there was a pocket in the way. As a result, the bathroom light switch was about 18" inside the bathroom on a wall to the right of the right opening pocket door. This required fully opening the pocket door and reaching into the room to turn on the light. I was able to mount the remote switch just to the left of the door where it can be reached by opening the door about 6" despite the fact that this location is over the pocket of another door. Installation was straight forward once I resolved the neutral issue (below). Fortunately, the box where I mounted the switch is deep and there was room for this unit in addition to the multiple junction blocks and wires also occupying the box. It should work in a shallower box if the box is used solely for the wall switch being replaced by this unit but it is a little bigger than most single switches. Note that a neutral must be present in the box and the switch unit cannot be used to replace a "dangling' switch where a single two conductor (plus ground) wire is used to bring the hot line down from the fixture and to carry the switched power back to the light in the fixture. In this case, you will see both the black (hot) and white (neutral) wires from the pair connected to the switch. In this case, the electrical code requires the white wire to be wrapped with black or red tape to indicate that it is hot, but this was omitted in several places in our unit. The switch seems to have a loose internal connection since it will not work if the backplate on which it is mounted is not perfectly flat. I had to trim one of the plastic wall anchors to make it work consistently. I suspect that the battery contact may be at fault, but have not been able to check this. Thus far, it seems to work perfectly, but may fail if the mounting bends or warps. The wiring diagram seems to imply that the neutral must pass through the receiving switch unit rather than the unit being simply connected to a neutral. This is not possible in my wall box as there is a single junction block for multiple neutrals. I measured the resistance between the two neutral (blue) lines with a digital Ohmmeter and they appear to be connected together (R = 0.000 on the meter). I made a test jig from an old extension cord, connecting both blue lines of the switch unit to the neutral side of the cord (plug and socket) and connecting the brown line wire to the hot line from the plug and the brown load wire to the hot side of the socket. The setup worked in this configuration and I wired the switch into my box with both blue lines connected to the neutral junction block.

Sencillo elegante y práctico