471-0316 New Compressor with Clutch

Works well and cheaper than anywhere else for new and not reman. 2010 Silverado 1500.

I bought this truck knowing the AC does not work. I found out a huge leak on front AC evaporator. Replaced it and charged it only to find out rear AC is also not working. Got it discharged at a shop and replaced the clogged rear expansion valve. Recharged it again, a week later I heard a rattling noise from engine compartment between 2000-2500 RPM. Googled it and found it is the AC compressor. I decided to replace it. While replacing the rear expansion valve I noticed some sort of sticky dirt kind of stuff inside the ac system (no metal pieces though) I haven't seen that inside any AC system before. I'm not sure what was it and how that got inside. One mechanic told me probably the AC wasn't working for years. Still that does not explain how sticky dirt got inside. I should have flushed the entire system at that time itself. I tried to save some bucks by cutting corners but eventually had to do that. So I decided to replace the entire AC system. AC compressor(Denso 471-0316), Accumulator drier (ACDelco 15-10421), AC condenser (ACDelco 15-63667), orifice tube (ACDelco 15-5378), all the gaskets, (front evaporator core (ACDelco 15-62961) and rear expansion valve (ACDelco 15-50106) were replaced 2 weeks prior to this). I completely flushed the system using FJC 2128 A/C Flush Solvent(1 gallon) and Mastercool 91046-A Air conditioner System Flush Kit (I wouldn't recommend buying this. Please read review by Mike "mike463" on this here in Amazon. There are other people had the same complaint but Mike had a solution). While flushing I did find metal pieces from the compressor trapped near the orifice tube and expansion valve filters About this compressor this is an exact fit for my truck. Good part, It is made in the USA. Mine came filled with 2 fl oz of PAG oil. The only difference between my original Delphi and this Denso compressor is a overheat cut-off circuit (connector) at the rear side of the compressor. The instructions came with the compressor stated if your vehicle originally had the wiring for high temperature cut-off please connect it if not just leave it alone. Mine did not had this connection so I just let it alone. I had to replace the Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly (ACDelco 38159) also. There are 2 small pieces of metal on either side of the pulley's arm holding it from moving too far mostly you will see at least one of them broken, but check yours before ordering a new one. Per an article I found online the entire AC system with rear ac requires 11 fl oz (330ml) of PAG 150 oil. If you are just replacing the compressor alone drain the oil from the failed compressor in to a measuring jar. If the oil is less than 1 fl oz (30 ml) add 2 fl oz (60 ml) to the new compressor. If the oil is more than 1 fl oz add the same amount that was drained from the old compressor. Make sure you buy new oil and please do not keep this oil open for long PAG oil absorbs lot of moisture and get contaminated. Here is the break up of oil required for entire AC system with rear AC (This is only applicable if you are replacing all components or flushing the entire system) Accumulator 3.5 oz, Eavaporator 3 oz, Condensor 1 oz, compressor 3.5 oz. To get the warranty on this compressor you have to replace the orifice tube and accumulator/drier and there should be a work order saying the entire system was flushed. If you do not have the rear AC you need 8 oz (240ml) of PAG 150 oil. I'm not sure about the break up though. The AC system with rear AC takes 3 lbs of R134a.

Compressor change out on a Chevy Tahoe 2002, 4x4 If you can remove a starter engine, then yes you can change the compressor yourself. I changed the compressor because the clutch coil got grounded, I know that the most logical option was to pull out the compressor, remove the clutch plate, and replace the coil clutch. But the compressor was an aftermarket, not well know brand, made in china. Definitely I didn’t want to get involved with a compressor that had already 40,000 miles, with a failed coil clutch. The logical choice for me was a more expensive, made in USA compressor, with a well know brand such as Denso. To remove and install the compressor (I have the shop manuals for this truck), you have to lift the car, remove the front passenger wheel, remove the plastic inner fender (inner plastic fender is held in place with push type plastic clips, if you remove them with care, you will be able to re-use them), you will have the 2 top bolts of the compressor right in front of you, and easily accessible. Remove the refrigerant, remove the discharge and suction lines of the compressor, tape both ends with painters blue masking tape (blue masking tape will not leave glue goo residue) Crawl under the car, remove the plastic shield (if equipped) that is located under the radiator, this will give you access to the tensioner pulley, with a 3/8 extension and ratchet, introduce the end of the extension on the square hole of the tensioner pulley so you may release the pressure and remove the compressor belt. Unscrew the 2 lower bolts of the compressor, have patience is a slow process of 1/4 of a turn with an open wrench there is no space for a ratchet and socket. The front lower bolt of the compressor will not come out (there is no space for it); it can only be removed once the compressor is totally out. Remember this because you have to put the new compressor back in place with this bolt already in the hole. Remove the compressor clutch electrical plug, and the high pressure electrical plug located in the back of the compressor. Move aside the suction and discharge pipes; unscrew the 2 top bolts of the compressor. Remove the compressor, through the fender well between the chassis and the engine (It looks tight but there is space, you do not need to remove any other parts such as radiator hoses) Reverse procedure for the installation. NOTES: 1) There is a video in you tube were the technician removes the compressor, from the top up. You will have to lose the fan blades and the fan shroud to do the job. It is not worth it, you will suffer unnecessarily. 2) If you compressor had an internal failure, and you suspect pieces of metal are inside the line, you will have to blow out the lines, change the suction accumulator which has silica drier compound and filter inside, and you have to remove the orifice /expansion device, which also has a filter. The right way to blow the lines is with nitrogen, if you use compressed air, humidity will get inside the pipes, and do not expect the new compressor too last for too long. You may blow the lines with refrigerant gas, but it is not the environmental responsible way of doing it. The longer the pipes are open to the air, the more chances humidity will get onto the system, and you will need a vacuum pump to remove the humidity. The subject of humidity is more complicated than what I am describing, Google it! Avoid doing this job during cold and rainy days. 3) The new compressor does not come with the new o-rings, I highly suggest that you change them also, the o-rings are molded into a metal washer, let’s call it a “washoring”. Link for the o-ring kit: http://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B000C2QM1M?psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o08_s00 ASIN B000C2QM1M 4) Additional Notes The new Compressor comes with enough oil for a dry system, with that I mean that it takes in consideration that the suction accumulator will be replaced with a new one, if you install the new compressor with the older suction accumulator, you will have excess oil in the system. Excess oil will reduce cooling performance, and it may flood the new compressor with oil, which may also break its parts (the compressor cannot compress oil). Read the instructions that came with the compressor with regards to the oil amount in it.,and how to adjust it. Your best bet is to install a new suction accumulator, and you can avoid adjusting the oil charge. If you place the refrigerant can upside down, you will be introducing pure liquid refrigerant in the system. Not recommended if you are not certain about what you are doing, liquid refrigerant may get into the compressor After you install the compressor, if the compressor tends to get stuck and the belt slip, and weird noises come out of the new compressor you did it wrong, it will break. If you like my review give me a thumbs up in Amazon, if you have any questions I will do my best to help you with it

Installed new compressor with new oil and seals. Pulled a vaccume and charged it. Worked for 10min. Then started squeaking. I am a fully certified mech.

installed on a Installed on a saturday, began a 3,500 mile trip on following wednesday, never failed to give comfort in the July heat of Arizona or Nevada. Great product, highest recommendation. Witholding one star only because longevity still unproven. tom

This compressor is the factory OEM part. On my OEM compressor, there was a label on the face of the compressor pulley identifying it as a Denso. You will need an inspection mirror to see it while installed in the vehicle. It fit perfectly on my Suburban. My application was a 1/2-ton 2002 Chevrolet Suburban LS, 4WD with the 5.3L flex-fuel (up to E-85) engine option. You can tell your vehicle is flex-fuel if there is a "Z" in the 8th position of your VIN: 1GNFK16Z02J14xxxx for example. If you are ordering this part, chances are your engine makes a clattering noise with the A/C on and may also snap the A/C serpentine belt. There have been several TSB's on this issue and an inumerable number of web postings. The clattering may happen at all RPM's or just a range of them. This is the TSB number with the latest information. #03-01-38-019A - (Sep 3, 2004) Here it is in a nutshell. The system is experiencing liquid slugging of the compressor. Several things may cause this occur. One, if someone servicing the system put in way too much oil. This is probably the least likely reason. Two, if you are low on refrigerant, you can get insufficient scavaging of oil out of the compressor as well as the possibility of freezing the evaporator over such that the refrigerant isn't boiled off before it gets back to the compressor on the suction side. The low pressure cut-out switch SHOULD prevent this from happening but that's another item to look at. My low-pressure switch was showing signs of oil seepage and I replaced it. The local flippin' dealer charged me $64 for one. Buy it on-line. Save a bundle. Three, possibly too much refrigerant can cause slugging. Don't use one of those re-charge in a can with one pressure gauge on top. You can easily overcharge the system and not know it even when you follow the directions and even having the factory shop manual with the pressure-temperature charts. Ask me how I know. I also, NOW own a proper set of refrigerant gauges so you can monitor both the high and low pressure. Either get the gauges or have a shop verify the system is charged properly. If system is charged properly and the clatter still persists, the compressor is bad and replace it. Don't waste your time on anything else. If your system has been open for more than a few hours, you should replace the accumulator/drier as well since the desiccant is probably saturated. I didn't replace my accumulator/drier since my system was only open long enough to replace one tube and the compressor. It works just fine. If you're unsure about the maintenance on the system it might be a good idea to replace the accumulator/drier since they are not that expensive. My compressor began to exhibit this behavior at about 160,000 miles. The A/C serpentine belt tensioner on my vehicle used was an ACDelco part and I bought it at Amazon as well: ACDelco 38159 Drive Belt Tensioner Assembly. The schrader valve on my tube was leaking so I bought this from Amazon too: ACDelco 15-33179 Air Conditioner Evaporator Tube

Works like a champ oem!

A. One has an "AC Delco" label on it, and the other doesn't. That's it. As previous reviewers have pointed out, Denso is the OEM for this part. I bought this for replacement of the OE in a 2001 Suburban 1500 LT, and it was an exact match for the OE, right down to the positioning of the electrical connectors. It went in without a hitch. It comes pre-charged with refrigerant oil, and simple instructions for making sure you're not putting too much oil into your system when you install it. I had to have my mechanic trace a post-installation leak, which turned out to be one of the two new seals I installed on the compressor. My mechanic's first replacement also failed, so we figured the leak had to be caused by use of a softer metal in the newer replacement seals than was used in the OE. He replaced it with a higher pressure-rated seal, and that has now held up fine. Really great replacement compressor! Tip for DIY'ers: use some masking tape and a marker to label each of the anchor bolts (e.g., top/front, bottom/front, top/back, bottom/back) when you're removing the old compressor. They're all different lengths, and you can end up damaging a bolt and/or engine block if you mix them up when re-installing the new compressor.

تبريد جيد وبدون صوت فقط صوت الكلتش إذا اشغل له معي سنة ونصف وهو يعمل بصدق على شاحنة GMC TRUCK SUBURBAN XL عام 2000