OVERTURE High Speed PETG Filament 1.75mm, 1kg White

Grass Green is pretty close to Ryobi's green. I printed PETG and found 250C, the max, was best. I also noticed it printed more shiny at higher temps. Duller at lower. 70C bed was fine and 80C no different on Sovol SV07 PEI bed. Fast led to problems. Sweet spot was around 38mm/sec for walls. If I dialed it up to 50mm/sec then stringing started. On a roll sitting for about 3-4 weeks it did pick up moisture which can cause your nozzle to accumulate some excess. Keep an eye out for it. If you come back to a final print with little extra blobs, it's probably knocked off the nozzle as it moved around. I used Cura default for wall thickness but I did drop my layers to 1.6mm for better arches. I didn't use bed adhesion (brim, raft, etc), bridges or supports but I also kept all my angles gradual. Look at the pic and you'll see they are basically circles. I used 20% infill as well as 30%. No real difference. When setting the power drills on the bracket arms, they only deflect maybe 1-2mm. Barely noticeable. Yes, by hand you can make it deflect 5-6mm but this is just to organize my tools, not create a climbing wall that will support lots of weight. I printed all of what you see with 1 spool. I have a 2nd loaded to do a ton of more tool wall brackets, but wanted to get this review up. If your print has started, and you have moisture issues, try bumping the temp up and keep an eye on it. You may get through it bumping 5 degrees at a time to watch for change. In my case, it was in the infill area, and so it's "entombed" inside. When I ramped up to 60mm/sec and got to higher layers, like around 300 of 500 (again, 1.6mm height layers) it did start to have issues rising a bit, and catching upon hot end return. I reduced the speed back to 32, and dropped the fan from 20% to 10% and the clipping stopped for a perfect finish. I do also use glue pen for adhesion to the bed, but even on a clean bed (no glue pen) I still had great adhesion. Finish is great. No stringing if I keep speeds down. Strong as you'd expect from PETG. I am super happy. I did read reviews that were negative but didn't have problems. The storage bag is resealable which is really nice. Spool did not detach on either spools. My filament was unopened on both rolls, ordered about 4 weeks apart. I will definitely order this product again as I get more of my power tools wall mounted, and when I get a chance I will upload the STL files to Thingiverse. I created these prints on TinkerCad. website, exported STL into Cura and then sliced GCode sent to Sovol SV07Plus.

I've used this OVERTURE High-Speed PETG on my Bambu A1, primarily from the external spool holder. I've also used several other brands of PETG, particularly SUNLU, so I have a good point of comparison. Compatibility with my Bambu A1 has been good. The spool fits and feeds normally from the external spool holder, and I haven't experienced any clogs, tangles, or other feeding problems. The filament moves smoothly through the PTFE tubing and extruder during prints. Like the other PETG I've used, this definitely prints better for me after drying. I've used essentially the same settings that work well with my SUNLU PETG and have been able to get very smooth, clean prints. Flow and extrusion are consistent once the filament is dry and the settings are dialed in, without noticeable under-extrusion or inconsistent layers. I did find that increasing print speed affected this filament more than I expected from something labeled "High Speed." As I pushed the speed higher, bed adhesion wasn't quite as reliable and the overall print didn't seem as smooth as what I've gotten from SUNLU PETG at similar settings. At more reasonable speeds, though, the printability and surface finish have been very good. Stringing has been about the same as I experience with SUNLU. The white itself is a nice opaque, slightly shiny white and can produce a very smooth finished surface with the right settings. I also haven't noticed any particularly strong or unpleasant odor while printing it. Overall, OVERTURE has been a reliable brand for this spool and I would purchase their filament again. This PETG feeds well, flows consistently, and produces very nice finished prints once dried and properly dialed in. I still personally prefer SUNLU PETG because I've had slightly better results with print smoothness and adhesion when increasing speed, but I've been very happy with the OVERTURE and would buy it again.

I’m amazed by both the delivery and the product! I ordered at around 9 PM, and by about 10 AM the very next morning it was already at my door — almost supersonic speed! The filament itself is terrific too. It prints beautifully, feeds smoothly, and the results have been excellent. Very happy with this purchase!

UPDATED REVIEW: Getting this PETG to print was a real struggle for me but... it ended up eventually working so in all fairness I've upped my review stars and I take credit for this as "user error". What it boiled down to was print speed. I was working with common slicer templates for PETG which print around 50mm/sec and I see other people reporting success at that speed but, it was a total mess for me. I found a few reviews that suggested turning the speed way down so I tried it and it made all the difference. I am working with a new Ender 3 v2 Noe with PEI build plate. Using about 240 nozzle and 80 bed. My esteps are calibrated spot on, and my flow calibrated to about about 88 for this material in my machine and these temps. I turned the main print speed down to 30mm/sec and the initial layers, supports, and walls down to 15mm/sec and it completely changed my printing experience with this material. ***HERE IS MY INITIAL REVIEW BEFORE I DISCOVERED SLOWING DOWN THE PRINT SPEED*** Based on other reviews and pictures, it seems some people have had great results with this filament. My expectations are low, I just wanted decent results as my prints are mostly functional and I am not overly concerned with aesthetics. Unfortunately after hours of testing and tuning I have not achieved a single acceptable result and will likely give up with this Overature PETG. The filament arrived sealed, I have stored it in a vacuum bag and use a heated filament holder when printing. My machine is a new E3v2 Neo with capricorn PTFE tube and a bi-metal heat break. I also print in an enclosure. ZERO luck with this roll of PETG. The pictures show two temp towers, the one on the left I printed with TECBEARS PLA and the one on the right with Overature PETG. Yes, PLA is nice to work with and as you can see, the PLA tower printed clean starting with 215 and 180 on the top; all layers were good with just a little stringing at the top cooler levels. Again, I just hoped for acceptable results with the PETG; I started at 245 on the bottom with 85 bed temp and finished at 215 on the top layer. All levels look terrible. My e-steps are tuned perfect, I did several flow tests printing single and double walled cubes which resulted in overflow and an adjusted flow rate of 88 which resulted in good flow test results on the test cubes but still most all prints fail, I barely got this temp tower shown in my pictures to print and as you can see, it is terrible in all regards. I have done a ton of tests for 1st layer adhesion and z-offset, my bed is super level (I use octoprint to visualize) and I've tried a few z-offset adjustments, no love... My last 1st layer tests turned out good and then I go to print and it wont stick, the filament globs up on the print head and smears around. I absolutely must have a brim, or better yet a raft or my print fails on the first layer. Sure, some folks have had good luck although I've put in the time and a lot of effort and I give up; I cannot get this filament to produce a useable print on my E3v2 Neo. I am not the only one reporting these challenges, maybe Overature has quality control issues with their PETG? Maybe I never found the perfect adjustments but I sure tried and I have to move on now, I can't spend my whole life trying to get a filament to produce "OK" results. ***SEE TOP OF REVIEW FOR UPDATED SUCCESS STORY***

Good PETG for the price. It is not too picky on temperature, it prints fine anywhere from 245-255 on my Ender 3 V2. It doesn't bridge very well but that is to be expected for PETG, if you want to bridge I recommend printing at 245 and turning on bridging settings in Cura which makes bridges possible although pretty ugly. Supports work better than bridging, but can be hard to remove because PETG sticks to itself so well. Here are my settings for Ender 3 v2: micro swiss all-metal hotend / original extruder / original bowden tube bltouch leveling probe + yellow springs nozzle 0.4mm 250c bed plain glass + gluestick, 85c first layer speed 10 speed after first layer 30 first layer height: 0.28 layer height after first layer: 0.2 fan: none unless you are trying to bridge, if so use bridge detection to turn fan 100% only for the bridge retraction 3mm @ 30 I find that the biggest struggle with PETG is just getting the first layer to stick and look good. Once you get past the first layer it is usually smooth sailing. If you have problems with the first layer, first of all dry your filament even if it is brand new. It is an easy way to eliminate frustrations. Also go ahead and calibrate your extruder steps and measure your filament diameter and put that into your slicer, again these are easy steps that ensure you will not be fighting under/over extrusion while you are trying to get everything else figured out. Next use glue stick on plain glass and let the glue stick dry. You want the glass to look dull, not shiny, but it also shouldn't feel sticky to the touch. This combo works great for me, it adheres well but not TOO well and the prints pop themselves off when they cool. Lots of people like hairspray too but gluestick works fine for me and is less messy. Finally the #1 most important thing is to adjust your z offset and first layer height. You cannot mush the filament onto the bed like PLA, it needs to fall out of the nozzle and gently lay down onto the bed. Before doing anything with your z-offset I recommend turning your first layer height up to .28 or .3. The reason is that this sets your nozzle higher AND automatically adjusts the flow rate to match. If you just start bumping your z-offset higher and higher, you will be under-extruding by a lot which can cause its own problems. Once you set your first-layer height to .28, then start printing a test print and live-adjust your Z until the lines lay down and stick to the bed, and are neither gooping up onto the nozzle, nor being hit by the nozzle and pulled off the bed. This is tricky because the sweet spot here is TINY. Like within one or 2 micro-adjustments on the z, either side of that you will have issues. But once you hit the sweet spot on the Z you are golden. Then print some bed leveling test prints and adjust your first layer extrusion multiplier or line width if needed so your lines are touching. I recommend always using the bed level print that is CIRCLES when starting off, not squares. The sharp corners on the squares are super unforgiving and will pop off instantly if your settings aren't right. It is easier to use a bed leveling print with circles to dial your settings in without frustrating yourself and needing to restart the print a hundred times. When printing things over 2" tall I recommend using a wide brim because originally I was using skirt and I have had taller prints pop off the bed right as they are nearly finished, I think the reason is due to the lower part of the print cooling off. A brim is cheap insurance against your whole print being ruined at the last moment, and is easy to remove and leaves little trace that it was ever there.

Amazing gold, silky color with this PETG filament. I’ve printed a few models, so far and am amazed at the results. I think this may be better than my favorite PLA SILK filament! Everything about the results with basic PETG setting on my Bambu Labs printer is great 😊

Prints VERY well. I have been using PLA+ for a long time and I have been getting mixed results. A lot of failed prints, ect. I tried this and have not had a bad print ONCE. prints to a very nice quality, very strong. Prints I could snap with my hands made of PLA hold up much better with this PETG. Excellent bed adhesion with a textured bed. Once it cools down the part just lifts off. I haven't needed to vent to the room like with PLA. Sometimes longer printed would smell, no smell with this. (At least nothing that bothers me). Will be using this going forward. Super easy, makes my printer much more useful.

I have a few overture petg filaments, but this was the first one I chose to print, and it was absolute hell. I had to stop attempts, order parts, and upgrade my printer in order to get this particular filiment to work. After switching to an all-metal-hot-end, still failing, adding a diamondback nozzle (best purchase ever btw, ABSOLUTELY made a difference), and cranking temps to ABS levels I could at least print the stuff. I tried everything. I tried slow printing, fast printing, thick printing, thin printing, cool printing, hot printing, printing from far-away, printing rediculously close, switching to new bed plates I'd never tried before, manually did micro-tweaks on a non-tweakable auto-leveling bed to get it "just right". This was a picky, picky filament. When you FINALLY get it to print right though, it's really tough to get the look it gives from anything else. We made blue 4th of july stars out of it, and sanded it down to give it a bit of a roughed-bluejean look, and it's damned cool. I've had at least 10 different people pick that thing up and ask if we bought it off Etsy (my wife is a big etsy fan), as well as ask to make them one. I also went for a big letter "A", (from U.S.A. letters) but ran out 90% of the way through, and it was just such a hard filimament to work with I made the choice to just say screw it, and switch to the next overture PETG filament we were going to be working with, transparent red, so now I have this akward red/blue letter A. That said, I am currently printing with the transparent red, and it's finicky in it's own right (transparent stuff is always a bit tough to get printing perfect), but not even close to the difficulty that the Midnight blue gave me. If this was my first PETG, I'd never buy PETG again. If this was my first filament, I'd never 3d print again. It was literally that jarring of an experience to use this stuff. It's hard to describe, but if I ever come accross something like it again, I there are two ways to solve most of the issues this filament gives: Bigger diameter print nozzle. OR Slower print time. (or some combination of both, will likely get you there). This stuff has speckles in it, and even though those are supposed to be made of PETG as well, the flecks pretty clearly heat up at a different temperature than the rest of the filament. This creates a problem, because printed cool, you'll probably end up needing to buy a new print head, and printed hot, it comes out in inconsistant widths (easiest to see if you just set it to like 290 degrees before printing for a quick wire-brush clean, and gravity will pull it out, you'll see what I mean when it strings). My solution for this type of problem is usually raise the print head a little higher, crank the temp as high as I think the filament can handle (sometimes 20~ degrees above max on box), and fans to help push the filiment down towards the bed, and print semi-fast to help compensate for the change in flow from high temps. Not possible here, since the flow wasn't consistent "and" and has an almost pulled-cotton-like problem with fraying on areas it doesn't have high enough heat or good enough flow. Holiday was around the corner, so I didn't have time for slow. My solution was to use TPU-like setting with ABS-like temps, printed very-close and very-fast, without fans. Fans helped adhesion and accuracy, but they also resulted in the worst stringing I've ever had to deal with (real pain in the ass post-processing - metal files absolutely required). I was suprised how strong this stuff was when it was finished, really durable, and really great looking. With sanding to a blue-jean look, I'd say it's one of the most unique filaments on the market, but holy hell is it hard to work with. If I were to give reccomendations to anyone who has this particular bitch of a filament, I reccomend, if it's an option, printing with a 0.8mm head and seeing how that goes, I really think that fleck in the filament just needs more room in the print nozzle in order for it to print at lower temps properly.

El producto es muy bueno y el tono es agradable. Es un poco más caro que otras marcas pero vale la pena por lo que es el tipo de material y tono disponible. Lo negativo (y no tan grave) es que al ser carrete de cartón, llega a dañarse en el traslado y si lo usas con algun sistema multicolor (ams,CFS,ace pro, etc) puede que te de algún tipo de problema.

This is a good filament that prints well and gives good strong finishes to my prints. Using with a creality 3 pro and it sticks to the print surface well and the flow is also good. Will buy more of this brand.

Overture has been absolutely killing it in the filament game for years now. I love their cardboard spools, I've never gotten a bad batch of filament or even had a knot in a roll. It's perfect every time and it's consistently so much that I actually cringe when I see some other filament on sale and I decide to buy Overture over saving $5 as I know there's far more chance that cheap stuff will not be worth it with jams or getting knotted up when unspooling. This was my first roll of PETG and I was nervous about printing with it. I heard it was much more picky on temps and retractions and adhesion... well either I'm a super lucky guy (which for those who do know me would NOT say that's the case... quite the opposite) or this stuff is just so well formulated but out of the box and just some starting pointers from message boards my first PETG print came out fantastic. No stringing, great bed adhesion to my PEI sheet (and not too much as some say is a problem with PETG) I could go ranting and raving about this product until next tuesday but I'll just cut this off now stating that I'm surprised how reasonably priced this filament is for the quality. I've never used a filament that costed as much as an entry level printer and I probably will never need to if I keep using this stuff. I cannot imagine it's any better. Just costs more.

Fungerar utan problem.

I'm using this filament with my Anycubic i3 Mega-S and it is working fine. Prints in a nice.. what I'd describe as royal blue. This is my first roll of PETG, and in fact, the first non-PLA filament that I have tried. I expected issues, but I actually got a darn near perfect print on my first try. I used the same default settings for PLA in Cura, but I changed the extruder temperature to 245 and the bed temperature to 85. Because I'd heard horror stories of people pulling chunks out of their ultrabases when printing PETG, I used the included build surface. It is smaller than my bed, but I just stuck it in the middle, re-leveled, and made sure that my project wasn't going to end up off the build surface. Worked great. Good adhesion. A bit difficult to remove, but not terrible. No discernable scent while printing. Comes in a resealable bag, which is super convenient! Also comes with a ruler, and the spool has markings on it (questionable accuracy?) to help you estimate how much filament you've used, and how much remains. EDIT: I was almost ready to downgrade my review because I was having so much trouble getting good prints after my first attempt. Globbing, stringing, oozing, oh my! Tried every setting tweak people suggested to no avail. Finally sprung on a dehydrator and dried the filament as a last ditch effort, and wow. People aren't lying when they say these filaments absorb moisture that can ruin a print. Huge difference.