POR-15 Rust Preventive Coating, Stop Rust and Corrosion Permanently, Anti-rust, Non-porous Protective Barrier, 128 Fluid Ounces, Clear

If your thinking of buying it you will not be sorry. I looked at a lot of options before getting this. A lot of people say that this IS the best. I'm glad I got it.I used this on my 1980 dodge four door 4x4 3/4 ton short bed. I had everything underneath the body from bumper to bumper sandblasted and sprayed Por 15 Gloss black on it.Due to time constraints I couldn't use the metal prep. I will update if that was a bad choice.Get the solvent also. Per the instructions you can use it as a reducer.I painted the bottom of the bed without reducer and everything else I used reducer. I noticed that not using it ( the bed) turned out super glossy.Everything else was still glossy but not the same. Still looks awesome tho.It dried faster than it said so it went a little quicker.This stuff is simply awesome to spray, it's almost imposible to get a run in it. I wanted to make sure I got everything covered the best I could so I sprayed enough to the point where most paints would run like crazy but this stuff won't !Be sure to get a detail gun to get into all the tight spots.I had also bought a quart from a local supply shop. I had a little left over afterwards. You can't beat this price, it's almost $200 everywhere else.Update 8-29-15I'm still really liking the quality of POR 15. Since the first review I have worked with it some more.Here's a few extra things I've found;So long as you get the rust off first you don't need the metal prep.I had to re sandblast the front half myself, I found a few areas they missed.Anyway I decided to try the metal prep.On bare metal it made no change unless I let it sit long enough to dry out. Then it made a white coating as it dried.I would only recommend metal prep if you just going to wire wheel something.I did a couple small things with wire wheel only and so far they still look good, but haven't really used them at all yet.Spraying ;The reason it wasn't as glossy in other areas is because the detail gun has a smaller tip and won't let out enough. It's hard to explain. If I held it in one spot long enough to get a wet look ( while spraying it will look like it's too much in one spot) it will come out glossy. The gun worked great for hard to reach spots even though some spots are semi gloss, it's better than not covered at all.Sun fading;I have a few spots that the suns been shining on every day and it's turned to a somewhat flat black with just a little gloss left.Durability;When I re sand blasted the front I found that this stuff is crazy strong. It's hard to scrap or scratch with a screw driver. I used a Brillo pad to scuff ( not to easy ) the inner fenders.Suffice to say this IS the HARDEST PAINT TO SAND. Even worse than gel coat.Left overs; get a container that's just big enough for what you have left. The rest of what I had is now trash that hardened inside a small Rubbermaid food container. I put reducer on top and I thought it would stay good. It had an inch of air inside.Safety;Be sure to wear a painting suite,respirator, gloves and glasses. It will clean up fine with lacquer or the solvent but nothing removes when it's dry except time.

we used this on an old state salt truck. after grinding and sanding the rust of we painted the frame, it adhered perfectly. thick paint that went a long way. works very well. would buy again!

Great and best product by POR15!This is not for beginners! It is very sensitive to oxygen exposure. Read all application procedures and technical data sheets on por15.com before even opening the can. They will tell you everything you need to know. I have a lot of experience with this coating and it is on every square inch of my 78 that isn't a nice color of paint. I have had it on there for 10 years and it still looks great! No flaking, no issues. The only thing which POR15 will tell you is if it is going to see UV (sun) you need to top coat it. My hitch is dull from the UV exposure, but not flaking or peeling or anything. I brush and spray depending on the part. Brush if I'm not going to see it and want a better coating (frames, axels, so on) and spray on things I'll see all the time (inner wheel wells, stuff under the hood). A couple tips:1) When brushing a vertical surface, it will run no matter what you do if it's got holes or anything in it. It won't if it's a completely flat surface with no contours or anything. Try to spray those surfaces if possible.2) WEAR a mask, GLOVES, and clothes you don't care about throwing away, this stuff will not come off your skin for a long time! You also don't want to breathe any of their products in.3) Open the can and cover right away. I order in gallons because I use it so often on everything and it's cheaper that way.4) Store in another contain that will keep oxygen out. I have a 5 gallon pail with a seal I put the gallon can in when not using and store in a colder area.Great for the DIY person who doesn't want to pay for powder coating! I don't have any data on if it's better or not, but I can tell you I have spent a grand total of $350 to do my whole truck and then some. Good luck powder coating everything I have POR15 for that price unless you own the business yourself.

I purchased this for painting the frame on my jeep and was really surprised how easily it applied. I did knock off the loose rust with a wire brush and wiped down the frame with some acetone. It brushed on with ease and it dried to, what looked like, a sprayed on application. I also used this on my skid plates after they were sandblasted but this product does not like the UV rays so any direct sunlight on this product will cause it to fade an flake. I have not experienced this yet but have read about it. So after reading a few more articles I found people were using POR for a base than using Rust-o-lum Hammer Coat paint to cover the POR and protect it from the UV rays. I'll know more as spring and summer will put some areas to the test.The other thing I found was this paint was cheaper here on Amazon by $60 compared to a local dealer.I did have one issue with this can. When they ship these they put 4 little clips on the lid to keep the product from opening in shipping. Well it makes it a pain in the butt to open since it pinches the can lip in at those points. I would suggest after popping those clips to try prying open at the clips it may help open the can easier than what I went thru. Lets just say I had to buy an empty paint can to transfer the POR 15 into so I could reseal it...lol.One other thing is if you get this on you clean it up immediately because if it dries on your skin, or anything, there's nothing that will take it off. It will have to wear off! I had it on my hands , did not wear gloves, and I tried everything to get it off and eventually gave up. It wheres off your skin in about a week.